PLANNING A TRIP 
ABROAD 




BLAIR JAEKEL 




Class _i=, L_ 

Book ^ v- ' 

CopigM 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 



PLANNING 

A TRIP 

ABROAD 



PLANNING 
A TRIP ABROAD 



BY 
BLAIR JAEKEL, F.R.G.S. 

Author of Windmills and Wooden Shoes, etc. 




NEW YORK 

McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 

1913 



Copyright, 1912, Bt 
McBRIDE, NAST & CO. 



J3 



Published, May, 1912 



gCI.A31 I 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

I Routes and Expenses 1 

When to go 3 

Choice of steamer 5 

Table — Costs of passage ... 12 

What to take and wear .... 16 

Carrying money 20 

Passports 22 

Mail 23 

Cablegrams 24 

Arranging for steamer baggage . . 26 

Costs of traveling 27 

Trips costing $150-$340 .... 28 

Trips costing $490-$535 .... 32 

II On Board 35 

Disposal of baggage 36 

The deck chair 38 

Bathing arrangements 38 

Mail 40 

The dining saloon 41 

Fees on shipboard 47 

Service 50 

Deck sports 51 

Social entertainments 52 

Other amusements 53 

III Arrival in Europe 57 

Passing the customs 57 

Baggage arrangements 61 

Transportation charges .... 64 

Shipping baggage 65 

Railway information ..... 67 

Porters, cabs and tips ..... 67 

Purchasing railroad tickets ... 69 

Time-tables 70 

Economical ways to travel ... 71 

Circular tour tickets 72 

Season tickets 74 

Distance tickets 76 

Special tickets 76 



Contents 

PAGE 

What class to travel 78 

Table — rates and distances ... 80 

Hotels and pensions 94 

Costs of accommodations .... 94 

Tips in hotels 100 

Hotel coupons 101 

Seeing points of interest .... 103 

Routes between countries . . . 108 

IV What to See Abroad 115 

Algeria 115 

Austria 116 

The Balkan States 117 

Bavaria 118 

Belgium 119 

England 122 

Ireland 127 

Scotland 129 

Wales 132 

Brittany .134 

Dalmatia 137 

Denmark 138 

France 138 

The Riviera 138 

The Rhone Valley 140 

Germany 140 

The Black Forest 141 

The Rhine 141 

Holland 146 

Italy 148 

The Lake District 148 

The Hill Towns 150 

Normandy 151 

Norway 152 

Portugal 153 

Russia 155 

Sicily 155 

Spain 156 

Sweden 157 

Switzerland 157 

Tyrol 159 

V Shopping in Eubope 161 

Where to buy: 

Amber, artificial flowers, cameos, 
165; chinaware and pottery; ci- 



Contents . 

PAGE 

gars, 166; cigarettes, clothes, 167; 
coral, 169; cutlery, diamonds, dress 
goods, 171; embroideries, 172; en- 
gravings and reproductions, filigree 
work in gold and silver, 173; furs, 
gloves, 174; hats, 175; inlaid work, 
176; ivories, 177; jewelry, lace, 178; 
leather goods, 179; linens, mosaics, 
motor apparel, 182; pearls, pipes, 
Roman antiquities in jewelry, etc., 
silks, 183; silverware and Shef- 
field plate, shoes, tobacco for the 
pipe, 184; toilet articles, tortoise 
shell, turquoises, 185; umbrellas, 
underwear, 186; walking sticks, 
watches, water-proofs, wood-carv- 
ing, 187; miscellaneous, 188. 

VI Automobile Touring Abroad . . .189 
VII Hotels and Hotel List . . . . . 199 

Austria 200 

Belgium and Holland 201 

British Isles 202 

France 208 

Germany 210 

Italy 213 

Russia 216 

Spain 217 

Switzerland 217 

Tyrol 220 

VIII Books to Read 221 

General Information ..... 221 

Austro-Hungary 221 

The Balkan States 222 

Belgium 222 

England and Wales 222 

France 224 

Germany 225 

Greece 225 

Holland 226 

Ireland 226 

Italy 227 

Mediterranean Countries .... 228 

Norway and Sweden 228 

Palestine 229 



Contents . 

PAGE 

Russia 229 

Scotland 229 

Spain and Portugal . . . . .229 

Switzerland 230 

Turkey 230 

IX Foreign Money 231 

Interchangeability 231 

Tables of foreign money .... 234 

X United States Customs on Return . 238 

U. S. Customs Regulations . . . 244 

Residents of the United States . 245 

Non-residents of the United States 247 

Goods other than personal effects 247 

Cigars and cigarettes .... 248 

Baggage declarations .... 248 

Contested valuation 250 

Miscellaneous provisions . . . 250 

Baggage for transportation) bond 251 

Sealskin garments . . . . . 251 

Penalty for non-declaration . . 251 



I 

ROUTES AND EXPENSES 

WHATEVER you have read of the 
history, romance, literature, art 
or architecture of Europe in general, or 
of the different European countries in 
particular, will in a measure determine 
what you wish to see on a trip abroad. 
It will all have been unconsciously pre- 
paratory. Whatever interests you most 
in your readings you will want most to 
see, and like as not you will plan your trip 
so that the itinerary will include such 
towns and cities the reading about which 
has contributed the most to your pleasure 
and enlightenment. 

Having obtained, therefore, unknow- 
ingly through the previous years, a gen- 
eral idea of where you wish to go abroad 
and what you wish to see, then, in a gen- 
eral way, plot out your prospective trip 
with a map of Europe in front of you, 
bearing in mind always that it is cheaper 
— if this item concerns you in the least — 
and more satisfactory to "do" a little of 
Europe at a time and "do" it thoroughly. 
Having planned your itinerary, it is time 
then to take up in detail such reading 
matter as bears directly upon your trip. 



2 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Going well armed with information about 
the places you intend to visit will enable 
you to expend your time and money in 
each to the best possible advantage, and 
objects of no great interest to you, or 
those of only local celebration, may be thus 
overlooked with impunity. The subject 
you are interested in the most, whether 
history, romance, art, architecture, city 
building, literature or what not, will 
doubtless govern your route. 

Assuming that you have chosen in a 
general way what you wish to see the 
most, perhaps the best method of becom- 
ing conversant with any certain country 
or city, so to speak, is to read over the 
various travel books covering the subject. 
These are usually thorough and authen- 
tic. But while reading them you may, 
perchance, change your route appropri- 
ately. Time and again you will find that 
the smaller and apparently insignificant 
towns hold more of interest for you than 
the larger cities — not so much of art and 
literature, perhaps, but often of history 
and architecture and customs and cos- 
tumes. The cities are more cosmopoli- 
tan; the out-of-the-way places the more 
typical. Art and architecture are not 
mere by-products of Europe. A certain 
amount of knowledge of the history of 
each will be to the traveler's advantage. 



Routes and Expenses 3 

When to Go 

When to visit certain countries or 
cities depends upon two things: The 
season of the year and the festivals 
or celebrations that take place at certain 
times, if you are at all interested in such 
matters — such as the Passion Play at 
Oberammergau. 

May and June are perhaps the best 
months to visit Ireland, although in the 
late summer there is more to do there of 
a social nature. England, Scotland and 
Wales are at their best during the sum- 
mer months. From a tourist's point of 
view, Northern France, Germany, Bel- 
gium, Holland, Austria and overland 
through the Balkan States as far east as 
Constantinople, Russia, Denmark, Nor- 
way and Sweden are most advantageously 
visited in summer. Spring is the time of 
year to visit Southern France, the Ri- 
viera, Southern Italy and Sicily, Greece 
and Dalmatian ports along the Adriatic. 
Easter in Rome is quite an event. On 
the other hand, the glow and warmth of 
a winter along the Riviera or in South- 
ern Italy is largely fictitious. The sun, 
when it shines, is agreeably warm ; but the 
natives have not as yet mastered the 
house heating problem to the satisfaction 
of the American tourist. The hotel peo- 



4 Planning a Trip Abroad 

pie will exaggerate the pathetic story of 
one little three-pronged radiator to a 
room into a compelling catch-line adver- 
tising steam heat. 

Trace a line directly east from New 
York and it will just about bisect the cu- 
pola of the Aquarium at Naples. Naples 
in summer is as warm as New York, but 
more and more people annually are spend- 
ing at least a part of the summer months 
in Southern Italy and Sicily. South of 
the latter is impossible, almost, in sum- 
mer. Port authorities are more than ac- 
tive these days in checking the admittance 
of cholera suspects, and, taken by and 
large, the ports of Italy are as healthful 
in summer as those of any other country. 

June in Venice is delightful and per- 
haps the best month to visit it and the 
Italian Lake district. June, July and 
August are the "high season" months in 
Switzerland; even early in June some of 
the mountain passes are not yet open and 
the villages up in the mountains are in- 
accessible. Southern Spain is too terri- 
bly hot for comfort in midsummer; be- 
sides, most of the illustrious adepts in 
what may be called Spain's national sport, 
bull-fighting, have left for a tour of Mex- 
ico or have gone on vacations to their 
country estates — and many rich men may 
be numbered among the Spanish matadors 



Routes and Expenses 5 

— so that the exhibitions given, if any, 
are of mediocre caliber. Portugal, being 
for the most part coast line, is not so 
warm. Winter in Madeira, the Canary 
Islands or the Azores is delightful, and 
summer there is by no means unbearable; 
but these, although possessions of Euro- 
pean countries, can hardly be considered 
parts of Europe. Midsummer is, of 
course, the time of year to visit the north- 
ern countries that fringe the Baltic, while 
the ideal time to start from New York 
upon a trip to the Mediterranean is in 
February or March. 

Choice of Steamer 

In their choice of steamers, travelers 
must be governed by their tastes and 
their pocket-books. If not in too much 
of a hurry the prospective voyageur will 
find the larger, slower boats more con- 
ducive to a pleasant, healthful trip across. 
These are vastly steadier, of less vibra- 
tion and somewhat cheaper, although not 
much, than the fast express steamers, and 
are lifted gently over the seas instead of 
ploughing through them. The slower 
the steamer, the less vibration; and the 
heavier she is loaded, the less motion. 

In the selection of the stateroom it 
might be well to remember that the nearer 
the center of equilibrium of a ship, tech- 



6 Planning a Trip Abroad 




A MAP OP EUROPE 



Routes and Expenses 




H0W1STG TRAVEL DISTRICTS 



8 Planning a Trip Abroad 

nically speaking, the less motion. In an 
"outside" room on the highest deck there 
will be felt more lateral motion, or "roll," 
than in an "inside" room on the lowest. 
In a room near either the bow or the 
stern of the ship there will be felt more 
perpendicular motion, or "pitch," than in 
a room situated amidships. "Outside" 
rooms, or rooms having windows or ports 
looking out to sea, being more airy, 
slightly larger, better lighted and better 
equipped than "inside" rooms, are, of 
course, more expensive. 

To avail yourself of the lowest steamer 
rates, you will have to start any time be- 
tween the first of September, generally 
speaking, and the first of April ; but often 
this is not practicable. Winter rates 
westbound, which are the lowest in this 
direction, commence about November first. 
Some of these winter rates with certain 
lines amount to but three-quarters or 
two-thirds of the so-called "high season" 
rates. Another advantage that the out- 
of-season voyageur has is that trans- 
Atlantic steamship travel between the 
dates above mentioned is comparatively 
light, and many steamship companies of- 
fer the passenger the best on the ship, 
within certain bounds, for the minimum 
rate. 

"Intermediate" steamship rates to Eu- 



Routes and Expenses 9 

rope, slightly higher than the winter 
ones, hold good for, say, the month of 
April and the first two weeks in August. 
Westbound, there may be but one or two 
sailings of intermediate rates. East- 
bound summer rates apply in May and 
continue through July. Westbound, 
they apply in August and continue into 
October — and then is when you will have 
to pay the piper for the best accommo- 
dations. 

It being "out of season" to cruise to 
the Mediterranean in summer, the steam- 
ship rates 'to these southern ports are 
considerably lower in summer than in win- 
ter. By landing at Naples, Palermo, 
Genoa or Trieste and traveling north- 
ward and westward, returning from a 
British or north Continental port, a 
great part of Europe may be toured 
without the traveler having to retrace a 
single step. 

The American Line ships, sailing from 
Philadelphia to Liverpool; the Red Star 
liners, from Philadelphia to Antwerp ; 
the Hamburg-American liners, from 
Philadelphia to Hamburg ; and those of 
the North German Lloyd, from Baltimore 
to Bremen, are among the most popular 
"one-cabin" boats — that is, boats carry- 
ing no first cabin passengers, but where 
the passenger is first class on the boat. 



10 Planning a Trip Abroad 

On these the rate of passage is slightly 
more than half the minimum rate pre- 
vailing on the boats of the same lines 
sailing from New York. They are big, 
slow, steady freighters, and where the 
sea voyage and the intimate associations 
that it brings are to be considered by the 
traveler, he could not do better than book 
his passage on one of them. The Ham- 
burg line, especially, is doing everything 
in its power to make its Philadelphia 
service more popular, and it has recently 
transferred from its New York service 
several heretofore "first cabin" ships to 
be used in its "one-cabin" Philadelphia 
service. With these boats the element of 
time is not considered. They take from 
ten days to two weeks to make the voy- 
age. Gales and bad weather bother them 
not the slightest. If worse comes to 
worse, they head into it, no matter what 
the direction, and do not attempt to 
"buck it," as is demanded of the fast ex- 
press steamers. 

Four lines for British ports sail from 
Montreal in summer, and from Halifax 
and Portland in winter: the Allan Line, 
the Royal Line, the White Star-Dominion 
Line and the Canadian Pacific. This 
route is not only 300 miles shorter than 
from New York across, but fully one- 
third of the total distance — some 900 



Routes and Expenses 11 

miles — is eaten up in the voyage down 
the St. Lawrence River and Bay. There 
are' less than four days of open ocean 
sailing, the distance across from land to 
land being only about 1800 miles. The 
scenery along the St. Lawrence Valley is 
another item to the credit of the route. 
Both first and "one-cabin" ships ply on 
this Canadian service and a wide range 
of rates is available. It is a popular 
route, not only with the Canadians them- 
selves, but with American residents from 
the West, the journey to Montreal being 
less expensive and a great deal shorter, 
of course, than to New York or other 
port on the Atlantic seaboard. 

Condensing matters, the reader will 
find compiled on the following four pages 
a table showing the minimum rates of 
passage by the various lines. 



12 Planning a Trip Abroad 



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16 Planning a Trip Abroad 

What to Take and Wear 

What to take and what to wear on 
a trip through Europe is a problem 
that will continue to puzzle the theo- 
rists for some time to come. One thing 
is certain : you will always take too 
much ; you will always find that you might 
have done without this, that and the 
other, and that space is occupied by car- 
rying it along which might have been 
used to better advantage. Lay out 
everything that you cannot possibly do 
without, and then take only half of it — 
this might serve as a pretty good axiom 
to go by. 

On board ship the traveler, even in 
summer, will wish to wear something in 
the way of a suit which is reasonably 
heavy. Homespun cloth is perhaps the 
best for this purpose — it does not have to 
be kept as perfectly pressed to look well 
as serge, for example, for the salt sea 
air and dampness are death to creases. 
These homespun effects also make admir- 
able suitings in which to travel about Eu- 
rope. A coat sweater and a light-weight 
raincoat are almost indispensable for 
steamer use, as well as for traveling in 
the north of Europe, no matter what the 
time of year. Bedroom slippers and a 
bathrobe may be put to daily use by the 



Routes and Expenses 17 

passenger to go to and come from the 
bathroom, although the light raincoat, 
which the passenger has been previously 
warned to carry, will serve admirably in 
lieu of the bathrobe. A steamer rug, of 
course, is a necessity. On many ships 
nowadays these may be rented for the 
voyage from the deck steward upon pay- 
ment of one dollar, thus saving the trav- 
eler one item of baggage which is next to 
useless except for the steamer passage. 
If the traveler sits about much in his 
deck chair with his feet and lower limbs 
unprotected by a wrap he will rue the 
day that he did not procure a steamer 
rug by one means or another. The in- 
tending purchaser of one will do better 
to rent a rug for the passage across, buy- 
ing one in London before the return. 
England is the home of articles of this 
sort, and they may be had cheaper there 
than in America. 

The lounging suit should be changed 
before dinner to one of dark material. 

The full dress suit is never necessary, 
unless on a diplomatic mission. If there 
should be dances on board, as is often 
the case in good weather, a dinner coat, 
or Tuxedo, is of course desirable, but it 
is by no means compulsory to wear one 
to dinner. I should say that possibly 
one-third of the first class passengers 



18 Planning a Trip Abroad 

appear at dinner on shipboard in evening 
clothes ; part of the remainder merely 
change to other and more presentable ap- 
parel; and some don't change at all. It 
is purely a matter of personal choice. 

Negligee shirts of flannel, or other 
soft material, with soft, unstarched cuffs, 
are the best for travel, either by land or 
sea. If the traveler fails to take a cap 
that really "stays on" it will be missed 
sorely, and even a heavy overcoat, or ul- 
ster, may be taken along for wear on 
board ship. It will not be found too 
warm if the winds blow from the north, 
and it may be rolled in the same bundle 
with the steamer rugs at the end of the 
voyage to be left in storage with the 
steamship company until the return trip, 
or, if returning by another line, sent 
ahead to the port of embarkation to be 
stored by the company until the sailing 
date. 

Rubber-soled shoes are not a necessity 
on shipboard, but to many who are ac- 
customed to their heelless form a pair 
of these will be considered a desirable 
addition to the luggage. 

For steamer wear, ladies should have 
an old suit for the deck, soft hat, veil, 
and heavy long coat and sweater, all of 
which may be packed up at the end of 
the voyage with the rugs. For wear on 



Routes and Expenses 19 

the other side, a three-piece suit of rajah 
or mohair is the best, and, if going to 
northern climates, a woolen suit. Wash 
silk waists are preferable, and one or two 
fancy dark waists to match the suit 
should be taken ; for street and afternoon 
wear, one or two foulard one-piece 
dresses ; and a semi-evening gown of 
crepe de chine — the crepe and silks are 
easily packed, take up little room, and 
do not wrinkle. As to shoes, three pairs 
are amply sufficient: one pair of heavy 
waterproofs, one pair of low shoes, and 
a pair of pumps for evening. Doe skin 
or chamois gloves are good because they 
are readily washable. A dark, thin, silk 
kimono is a necessity. Toilet articles of 
celluloid are lighter than those of silver 
and less likely to be stolen. Silk, or 
Skinner satin petticoats save laundry 
bills. Last but not least, a sewing bag 
containing the small necessities may be 
packed along. Old underwear, if worn 
on the trip, may be thrown away at the 
end or when soiled, and replaced with new 
garments very cheaply and satisfactorily 
in Europe. This latter applies to men as 
well as to women. 

The ideal way to travel through Eu- 
rope is in company with a suit case, as- 
sisted, perhaps, by a small handbag in 
which to carry toilet articles and things 



20 Planning a Trip Abroad 

likely to be needed upon a moment's no- 
tice. An additional ticket may be 
bought, almost, for what it costs to 
transport even a steamer trunk with you 
from one place to another. 

Carrying Money 

By far the simplest, safest and sanest 
method of carrying funds abroad is to 
make use of the "travelers' checks" is- 
sued by the American Express Company, 
the American Bankers' Association, 
Thomas Cook & Son, or any of the prin- 
cipal steamship lines. Where a long 
stay is to be made in one place, the let- 
ter of credit, perhaps, is better, and even 
a sight draft is easily negotiable upon 
the proper identification. 

Travelers' checks are of $10, $20, $50, 
$100 and $200 denominations, and the 
rate of purchase is one-half of one per 
cent. — in other words, $100.50 will buy 
$100 worth of checks. Bound together 
in a neat folding cover, they may be 
carried in the hip pocket by gentlemen, 
and secured to a button by means of a 
chain supplied for the purpose; by a 
lady, in a chamois bag around the waist 
or in a deep pocket in the underskirt. 
A small pamphlet giving the names of 
banks and correspondents, even in the 
most remote cities and towns throughout 



Routes and Expenses 21 

the world, which cash these checks is sup- 
plied the purchaser; and in almost all of 
the hotels and larger stores abroad they 
are gladly accepted in payment of pur- 
chases made. If the traveler returns to 
America with one or a number of un- 
cashed checks they may be deposited for 
their face values in bank, like bills of the 
same denominations, and he loses nothing. 

The method of turning these checks 
into money abroad is easy; simply sign 
your name on the line designated, mak- 
ing sure that your signature as signed in 
the presence of the payer is identical with 
that with which you already signed the 
check in the office of the company from 
which it was purchased. They may be 
purchased abroad as well as in America. 
The equivalent of the American denomi- 
nation of the check in the coinages of 
the different foreign countries is shown 
on its face, so there need be no fear of a 
swindle. 

Before embarking it is best to buy, 
say, $20 worth of the money of the coun- 
try in which you expect to land to cover 
incidental expenses until you will have 
time to have one of your checks cashed. 
A limited amount may be procured from 
the purser, and, in case the procuring of 
it ashore was impracticable, it should be 
obtained from him several days before 



22 Planning a Trip Abroad 

the termination of the voyage. There 
will doubtless be a run on his bank the 
landing day, and some will come away 
disappointed. 

Passports 

While passports are convenient docu- 
ments to have along, they are absolutely 
necessary only when traveling through 
Russia, Turkey and the Balkan States, 
and then only after having been prop- 
erly vised by the Consul-General of the 
country in the American city in which 
the traveler lives. They may be vised 
by the Russian, Turkish, Servian, or 
other Consul-General in London, or Ber- 
lin, or Paris, for example, upon the 
proper recommendation of the American 
Consul-General in that city, but it is much 
less trouble to have them vised in Amer- 
ica. As a means of prompt and absolute 
identification a passport is worth all the 
money expended for it. 

The method of procedure to obtain a 
passport is as follows: Upon request, 
the Passport Division of the State De- 
partment in Washington will send to you 
an identification blank. After filling this 
in, signing it and swearing to the result 
before any notary public, mail this blank 
back to the State Department, Passport 
Division, together with one dollar, and 



Routes and Expenses 23 

the passport, properly made out, will be 
forthcoming in a few days. A passport 
is valid for two years from the date of 
issue, and safeguards the foreign travel- 
ing of a man and his wife and minor chil- 
dren. 

Mail 

Before starting, decide upon certain 
addresses to which mail may be sent, and 
instruct relatives and friends accord- 
ingly. These addresses may be those of 
the correspondents of the banking house 
which supplied your travelers' checks or 
letter of credit, or of the steamship com- 
pany's agents, or of the branches of one 
of the large tourist companies. If going 
and coming through London it might be 
best to have your mail sent there, giving 
explicit written instructions about for- 
warding while on your Continental trip 
to the agent of the company who handles 
it. If you do not expect to be in the 
same city twice, give addresses along the 
route sufficiently far ahead of your trav- 
eling schedule so that mail may be await- 
ing you. At each point, after you have 
inquired for mail, give instructions for 
forwarding — always in writing — so that 
letters received after you have left will 
reach you ultimately. It is hardly ad- 
visable to have mail, especially important 



24 Planning a Trip Abroad 

mail, sent to hotels, unless you contem- 
plate a prolonged stay in a certain place. 
Purchasers of Thos. Cook & Son's 
hotel coupons, or buyers of railway tick- 
ets through them, may avail themselves of 
Cook's mail-forwarding service, than 
which there is no better. Suppose, for 
example, you land in Naples and travel 
up through Europe, sailing for home 
from Liverpool: have all mail, up until a 
certain date and giving sufficient time al- 
lowance for it to reach the place before 
you, sent to Cook's, for instance, in Ven- 
ice. After that date, and up until a cer- 
tain later one, have mail sent to Cook's 
office in Lucerne, then Paris, then Berlin, 
then London, and so on. When you 
reach Venice and receive your mail leave 
written instructions on a card especially 
printed for the purpose for them to for- 
ward all mail that may come for you 
after you have departed to their office in 
one of the cities on ahead at which you 
expect to stop — the last city visited be- 
fore you sail for home is best. Repeat 
the performance at every point where you 
have ordered letters sent. 

Cablegrams 

Cablegrams may be opened and re- 
wired to any address, if a certain sum is 
left to prepay the charge, the remainder 



Routes and Expenses 25 

to be refunded, or they may be mailed to 
your next known stopping place. 

If there be the least possibility of your 
having to cable back to America it is ad- 
visable, before you start, to decide upon 
a code name and have it registered at 
both the Western Union and Postal Cable 
offices in the city in which the party lives 
to whom you may wish to cable. If this 
party lives, for instance, in Chicago, the 
code name of the party followed by the 
name of the city will be sufficient address. 
Suppose the word "wax" is chosen as the 
code name of the party to whom you wish 
to cable; then a cable addressed "Wax 
Chicago" will reach him. "Wax" may 
also be your code name abroad, to be reg- 
istered with the firm which handles your 
mail. If your party in America wishes 
to cable you he will address it "Wax," to 
be followed by the code name of the firm, 
and the city. If you are in London and 
Cook handles your mail and if you have 
registered your code name with them, 
"Wax care Coupon (Cook's code name in 
London) London" will reach you, being 
either held until called for or forwarded, 
according to instructions. Be particu- 
lar that both you and your friends or 
relatives in America use the same cable 
code. The International Mercantile Ma- 
rine puts out a neat code book, grouping 



26 Planning a Trip Abroad 

sentences about forwarding money, ill- 
ness in the family, etc., under certain code 
words. Any one of the well-known com- 
mercial codes is of wonderfully wide scope. 

Arranging for Steamer Baggage 

If you return by the same line, or by 
one of the same combination of lines, from 
the same port in Europe that you landed, 
whatever baggage that you may have 
which is unnecessary to your comfort on 
your Continental trip, such as a roll of 
steamer rugs, may be stored with the 
steamship company at that port, free, 
gratis, for nothing, to be claimed by you 
when you come to embark for home. Mr. 
Cook also handles and stores baggage 
with care and impunity, and he will call 
for it, although not in person, and for- 
ward the same to any point, port or prin- 
cipality for a nominal charge, and even 
place it in your room in the hotel for you 
and unbuckle the straps. In the case of 
a trunk you will have to surrender the 
key to the forwarding agent for the bene- 
fit of the customs official of the country 
to which it is consigned. If you land at 
a Mediterranean port and wish to wan- 
der up through Europe and sail for home 
from a British or German port, steamer 
baggage may be given over to the care 
of the ship's baggage master before land- 



Routes and Expenses 27 

ing, and he will follow instructions as to 
forwarding to the port, or even inland 
city, desired. Of course it will cost you 
some money, but then you will learn from 
experience that baggage is the bane of 
European or any other kind of travel. 

Costs of Traveling 

A trip to Europe consuming some few 
days more than five weeks can be made 
for considerably less than $200, if the 
traveler will but cross on "one-cabin" 
boats, make use of the third class railway 
carriages on the British Isles — plenty 
comfortable enough and the class usually 
taken by the average American — and 
second class on all Continental railways, 
which tickets ordinarily permit of first 
cabin boat passage across the English 
Channel or the North Sea. An example 
of such a trip is as follows: 
From Philadelphia to Liverpool ("one cabin" 
boat), eleven days in crossing. 

1st day — Arrive in Liverpool. 

2nd day — To Chester, Birmingham and Warwick. 

3rd day — Coach to Leamington and on to Strat- 
ford-on-Avon. 

4th day — To London. 

5th, 6th, 7th and 8th days — In London. 

9th day — To Paris via Newhaven and Dieppe. 
10th, 11th, 12th and 13th days— In Paris. 
14th day — To Brussels. 
15th day — Brussels and Antwerp. 
16th day — Embark from Antwerp, "one cabin" 
ship to Philadelphia, 12 days in cross- 
ing. 



28 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Your passage over and back at the mini- 
mum rate will cost $ 95.00 

You allow for tips on board 16.00 

Your traveling and hotel expenses on the 
other side for the sixteen days will come 
to exactly 48.00 

Total $159.00 

Trips Costing $160-$S^0 

For $173.50 (this can be run up to 
$196, if you take the pick of the accom- 
modations on a "one-cabin" boat) you can 
loaf eleven glorious days at sea, make a 
three weeks' tour of the cathedral towns 
of England, and loaf eleven days going 
home again, as follows : 

Philadelphia to Liverpool ("one-cabin" boat), 
eleven days en voyage. 

1st day — Arrive in Liverpool. 

2nd day — To Chester, Birmingham and Warwick. 

3rd day — Leamington, Stratford-on-Avon and 
Oxford. 

4th day — To London. 

5th, 6th and 7th days — In London. 

8th day— To Colchester. 

9th day — To Ipswich. 

10th day — To Bury and Cambridge. 

11th day — In Cambridge. 

12th day— To Ely. 

13th day— To Yarmouth. 

14th day — To Norwich. 

15th day — To Lynn and coach to Sandringham. 

16th day— To March. 

17th day — To Peterboro and return to March. 

18th day — To Boston and Lincoln. 

19th day — To Doncaster and Sheffield. 

20th day— To Manchester. 

21st day — To Liverpool and embark for Phila- 
delphia ("one-cabin" boat). 



Routes and Expenses 29 

In this case, your steamer transportation 

(minimum rate) will cost $95.00 

Tips on board will come to 16.00 

Hotel and traveling expenses for three 
weeks in England 62.50 

Total $173.50 

For $73, which covers merely the ex- 
penses of transportation through Europe 
in this case, quite a comprehensive tour of 
its northern part may be made, as fol- 
lows: "One-cabin" boat from Philadel- 
phia to Liverpool; on to Harwich and 
across the North Sea to the Hook of Hol- 
land ; to The Hague ; to Amsterdam ; to 
Berlin ; to Cologne ; up the Rhine to May- 
ence; to Frankfort; to Lucerne via 
Schaffhausen ; to Interlaken ; to Como 
and the Italian Lakes; back to Berne; to 
Paris; to Brussels; to London via Ostend 
and Dover ; to Warwick and Stratford- 
on-Avon; to Liverpool and return to 
Philadelphia on a "one-cabin" steamer. 
By purchasing Cook's so-called "second 
class" hotel coupons — which hotels in 
many cases are just as satisfactory as 
those of the "first class" — the traveler 
may allow $1.87 a day for room, break- 
fast and dinner. The cost of lunches 
need not exceed any coin equivalent to 
our quarter. A thirty days' trip would 
thus cost for hotel coupons $56.10. 
This, plus $95 for steamer passages at 



30 Planning a Trip Abroad 

the minimum rate, plus a limit of $16 for 
tips on board, plus the $73 for railway 
transportation, plus $7.50 for lunches, 
will total $247.60 — actual expenses for 
traveling. Tips abroad should not total 
more than $10, the necessary expenses of 
the whole excursion of seven full weeks 
costing in round numbers $260. 

Transportation through southern Eu- 
rope — always second class railway car- 
riage on the Continent, third class in 
England, and first class on Channel boats 
— will cost $89, the route lying as fol- 
lows : Antwerp to Munich ; to Venice ; to 
Florence; to Rome; to Naples; to Genoa; 
to Monte Carlo; to Marseilles; to Bor- 
deaux ; to Paris ; to London via Rouen, 
Dieppe and Newhaven; to Liverpool via 
Oxford, Birmingham and Chester. From 
Philadelphia to Antwerp on a "one-cabin" 
ship, and return from Liverpool on a boat 
of the same type, will cost, say $110; 
tips on board, $16 ; hotel accommodations 
and meals for thirty days, $63.60 as be- 
fore. These plus the $89 for transporta- 
tion through Europe will total $278.60, 
being all necessary expenses, except the 
tips abroad and incidental expenditures 
and purchases. 

For $160, covering all necessary ex- 
penses for a month's trip from the time 
you leave the American continent until 



Routes and Expenses 31 

you return, you may proceed as follows : 
Leave Montreal on a "one-cabin" boat 
for Havre ; proceed to Paris, having three 
days' sight-seeing about Paris and Ver- 
sailles ; to London, via Dieppe and New- 
haven ; spend three days in London ; to 
Edinburgh; to Glasgow and return from 
there to Montreal. 

An eight weeks' trip from Montreal to 
Liverpool, through central Europe and 
return to Montreal from Glasgow, in- 
clusive of all necessary expenses, may be 
made for $340. The route in this case 
would touch Liverpool, Chester, Strat- 
ford-on-Avon and Warwick, London, 
Harwich and the Hook of Holland, The 
Hague and Scheveningen, Amsterdam, 
Antwerp and Brussels, Cologne, Biebrich 
and Wiesbaden via the Rhine, Heidelberg, 
Lucerne via Basle, Interlaken via Meirin- 
gen and Brunig Pass, Griindelwald, Ge- 
neva via Lausanne and lake steamer, Paris 
with five days there, London via Dieppe 
and Newhaven, Melrose and the Abbeys, 
Edinburgh and Glasgow. 

These examples show for how little a 
trip to and through Europe may be made. 
In the two that follow, suppose we pro- 
cure more pretentious accommodations on 
a large first cabin ship and stop at hotels 
more frequented by the traveling Amer- 
ican. 



32 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Trips Costing $^90-535 

A trip of this caliber, visiting Ireland, 
Scotland, England, Holland, Belgium and 
France may be made, inclusively, for 
$490. It may be arranged as follows: 
$100 berth on a ship sailing from New 
York and touching at Queenstown; then 
to Cork and Blarney Castle; by rail to 
Bantry and motor over to Parknasilla ; 
one day there and by motor to Killarney ; 
visiting the gap of Dunloe; by rail to 
Dublin and a day there; by rail and 
coach to Newcastle; rail to Belfast and 
Portrush; a day at Portrush and the Gi- 
ant's Causeway ; via Stranraer and Larne 
to Glasgow; by rail, steamer and coach 
through the Scottish Lakes and Tros- 
sachs to Stirling and Edinburgh; two 
days in Edinburgh ; to Melrose, Abbots- 
ford, Carlisle and Keswick; coach to 
Grasmere and Ambleside ; steamer to Win- 
demere; one day in Windemere and on 
the Lake; to Furness Abbey; to Chester 
and on to Warwick; from Warwick by 
coach to Stratford-on-Avon and back to 
Kenilworth Castle; to Oxford and Lon- 
don; two days in London and thence via 
Harwich and the Hook of Holland to The 
Hague; one day at The Hague and 
Scheveningen ; to Amsterdam and the 
Island of Marken, Volendam and Edam; 



Routes and Expenses 33 

to Antwerp and Brussels; a day in Brus- 
sels and then to Paris ; two days in Paris ; 
then to Boulogne and embark on steamer 
for New York ($90 berth). 

For $535 exactly, including every ex- 
pense except the tips on board the steamer 
and purchases abroad, perhaps the most 
pleasurable and most comprehensive two 
months' trip through Europe may be ar- 
ranged. Below is an outline of the route 
and a summary of the points of interest 
along it: 

Leave Boston on first class steamship 
($90 berth) for Naples, calling en voy- 
age at Ponta Delgada in the Azores, Ma- 
deira, Gibraltar and Algiers, with time 
enough ashore to see the interesting 
things in each place. The four days al- 
lowed to Naples will enable one to visit 
Capri, Sorrento, Amalfi, Pompeii and 
Vesuvius, not mentioning the Museum and 
places of interest in Naples itself; two 
days in Rome; a day in Florence and on 
to Venice ; two days in Venice and a day in 
Milan; to Lucerne via the St. Gothard 
Tunnel; two days in Lucerne, with an ex- 
cursion up the Rigi; via Meiringen and 
Brienz to Interlaken; excursions from 
there to Lauterbrunnen, Griindelwald 
and the Jungfrau; to Heidelberg via 
Berne and Basle; a day in Heidelberg 
and on to Wiesbaden ; a day in Wiesbaden 



34 Planning a Trip Abroad 

and then down the Rhine from Biebrich 
to Cologne; to Amsterdam, with excur- 
sions to Marken, Volendam and Edam; to 
The Hague and Scheveningen ; to Ant- 
werp; to Brussels; to Paris; four days in 
Paris and the vicinity; to London via 
Boulogne and Folkestone; two days in 
London, sailing from there direct for 
New York. 



II 

ON BOARD 

PLANNING is truly half the pleasure, 
but the day will come at last when 
that wonderful metaphorical bag of anti- 
cipation bursts with a vengeance and be- 
gins to scatter its good things along the 
route of your holiday trip abroad. The 
ship sails at noon. 

Some time previously — let us hope it 
has been quite a while, months, even, be- 
cause first come first served is the way the 
booking of passengers is handled by the 
steamship companies — the delightful es- 
sence of your prospective trip will have 
crystallized into a glorious reality simply 
by your mailing your check for $25 to 
the steamship company as a bond of good 
faith that you really wish to avail your- 
self of , the accommodations selected. 
Three weeks at least before the sailing 
date you will have paid the remainder. 
Prior to that time the company would 
have paid back your $25 deposit on de- 
mand, if something had turned up unex- 
pectedly that compelled you to remain in 
America. If the refund is asked for 
within the three weeks before sailing, you 
35 



36 Planning a Trip Abroad 

will be obliged to wait until your accom- 
modations have been re-sold by the com- 
pany ; if this is not possible, your $25 
deposit is lost. 

It is also well to have decided definitely 
when you will return from Europe and en- 
gage this passage also before you start. 
In the late summer and early fall there 
is always a great demand for return pas- 
sage to America, and many people are 
compelled to remain on the other side 
longer than they had expected, simply be- 
cause they are unable to procure the ac- 
commodations desired. Many companies 
allow a certain discount if the traveler re- 
turns by the same line. 

The proper thing to do is to go on 
board an hour or more before the steamer 
is scheduled to leave the dock. It is wise 
to visit the ship on the day previous, if 
possible, and familiarize yourself with the 
location of the stateroom, baths, and so 
on. Stewards will be on duty to take you 
over the ship and you will have time to 
examine things a little more leisurely. 
By doing so you can go to your room next 
morning without being personally con- 
ducted. 

Disposal of Baggage 

Tags and labels for baggage may be 
procured from the steamship company at 



On Board 37 

the time the ticket is issued. These bear 
a large initial, according to the passen- 
ger's last name, and space in which to 
write your full name and number of state- 
room, name of steamship and sailing date. 
Some are marked "For the Hold," and 
others, "Wanted." Paste one of the for- 
mer on each end of every piece of baggage 
not wanted in the stateroom, and tie a 
tag marked "Wanted" on each piece of 
baggage that may be needed during the 
voyage. Baggage for the hold of the 
ship should be sent so as to reach the dock 
at least a day before sailing. It will be 
found there when you arrive, and when 
claimed, the baggage master of the line 
will see that it is placed on board. State- 
room baggage — steamer trunk, suit case, 
roll of rugs, etc. — should accompany the 
passenger to the dock the day of sailing, 
and stewards will immediately take charge 
of it and place it in the stateroom as 
marked on the tags. 

Do not attempt to unpack baggage to 
any extent before the ship leaves the dock. 
If you do, it is best to lock the stateroom 
door when you go on deck, because the 
steamship company is not responsible. It 
warns the passengers to take every pre- 
caution while the ship is in port and while 
there are strangers and visitors of every 
class aboard. Stateroom doors should 



38 Planning a Trip Abroad 

not be locked during the voyage while the 
occupant is on deck, but valuable jewelry 
or other articles should be relegated to 
the purser's care for safe keeping. 

The Deck Chair 

Upon your previous inspection of the 
boat you may have had the foresight to 
hunt up the deck steward, or his assistant, 
and, after payment of the usual dollar, 
have chosen the spot for your deck chair 
for the voyage. This should be, prefer- 
ably, on the trip to Europe, on the star- 
board side — the right hand side of the 
ship, looking toward the bow. Most cold 
winds will come from the north, and by 
being on the starboard side going over 
and the port, or left, side coming back, 
you will be protected. The chair will re- 
main in the same spot throughout the voy- 
age, unless there are so few passengers 
that it may be moved about the deck at 
will without discommoding anyone. If the 
price of the deck chair was included in 
your payment for passage at the com- 
pany's office, the deck steward merely 
wishes to have the receipt. 

Bathing Arrangements. 

Then there is the bath steward. It 
seems to be an unwritten law at sea that 
every passenger, if physically able to do 



On Board 39 

so, should take a bath at least once a 
day. So the bath steward is a mighty 
important personage to interview. On 
the day before sailing his bath schedule 
will be undeveloped, and you may choose 
your own hour, fifteen or twenty minutes 
being allotted for each bath; the steward 
will come to your room and notify you 
each morning of the voyage when your 
bath is ready. 

It will be well to keep in mind the fact 
that in traveling eastward each day will 
be shorter by from a half to three-quar- 
ters of an hour, due to the fact that you 
are meeting the sun earlier than it ap- 
pears to New York, for instance. The 
difference in time between London and 
New York is four hours, which are offi- 
cially disposed of at sea by turning ahead, 
on the eastward voyage, the hands of the 
clock in the main gangway — usually at 
about 10:30 each evening. On the re- 
turn voyage they are turned back in the 
same way. In setting the hour for your 
bath, therefore, bear in mind the fact that 
in going east, if you make it eight o'clock 
and then retire without setting your own 
watch, you will find yourself called at 
about quarter past seven, which is rather 
early rising on shipboard. On the re- 
turn voyage, therefore, it will be well to 
set the time a half to three-quarters of 



40 Planning a Trip Abroad 

an hour earlier than your regular rising 
time, for the same reason. 

There will be a sufficient number of 
bathrooms on board to accommodate ev- 
erybody sometime, but if you wish the 
choice of bath hours, apply early; the 
earlier the better. If you wait until the 
last minute the bath steward's schedule 
will have been completed up until nine 
o'clock in the morning or later — which is 
almost too late to indulge before breakfast 
in one of the most beneficial phases of an 
ocean voyage. And what benefit or pleas- 
ure is there in a cold salt plunge after 
breakfast? 

If unable to visit the ship the day be- 
fore sailing, your deck chair and bath 
should be arranged for as soon as possi- 
ble after going on board. 

Mail 

The purser will have all mail addressed 
to you in care of the ship, and he usually 
details one of his assistants to preside at 
the impromptu post-office in the saloon to 
answer inquiries of the passengers. Flow- 
ers and fruits sent to you to the ship are 
placed on one of the tables in the dining 
saloon, to be claimed by you, or are sent 
to your own stateroom. Letters written 
on board before the ship sails, or shortly 
thereafter, to relatives and friends, if 



On Board 41 

stamped and placed in the mail box to be 
found in the main gangway, will be taken 
off by the pilot when he leaves the ship 
and mailed promptly ashore. A card 
showing the hour of the pilot's departure 
will be displayed conspicuously near the 
mail box. 

The Dining Saloon 

After the excitement attendant upon 
the slow and laborious process of leaving 
the dock has subsided somewhat, it is best 
to go "below" — meaning "downstairs" on 
board of a ship — and arrange with the 
steward, usually the second, who has that 
department in charge, for your seat at 
table in the dining saloon. You will oc- 
cupy the same seat throughout the voy- 
age, so it is well to obtain a location that 
suits you. For those addicted to seasick- 
ness, the nearer the entrance the better. 
Most ships sail in the morning or at noon, 
and for the first meal on board — lunch, in 
this case — no seats in the saloon are allot- 
ted, the passengers seating themselves as 
they choose. 

The captain's table in the dining saloon 
is the table of honor. The seats to his 
immediate right and left he usually dis- 
poses of personally, after a perusal of the 
sailing list, to intimates who may have 
crossed with him before, or personal 



42 Planning a Trip Abroad 

friends of himself or the company. The 
remainder are at the disposal of the stew- 
ard who attends to the seating. At the 
captain's table it is proper and customary 
to follow his example of dress at meals. 
If he appears in full dress uniform at din- 
ner, which he usually does, it is merely a 
mark of respect for the gentlemen at his 
table to appear in dinner coats, and the 
ladies in more or less full dress evening 
costume. Upon the evening of the day 
of leaving port it is not probable that the 
captain will be down to dinner, nor will 
he appear when there is fog or when mak- 
ing port. 

And speaking of captains, there are 
captains and captains. Some court the 
society of their passengers, and some in 
their manners hint of being chronic dys- 
peptics. But the traveler must not ig- 
nore the fact that all are efficient and able 
navigators, else they would lose their li- 
censes in no time. I know a captain in 
one of the British lines — a member of the 
Royal Naval Reserve and a young man 
still in his thirties, but a navigator, a 
seaman and a disciplinarian of the old 
school ; more, he is a diplomat and brings 
trade to his company. At the beginning 
of every voyage the chief steward submits 
to him a chart showing the seating and 
the names of seat-holders in the dining 



On Board 43 

saloon. This he looks over carefully be- 
fore ever making his appearance at ta- 
ble. Inside of a few meals he can name, 
if the occasion demands, every seat-holder 
in the saloon by merely looking about him, 
and can pass a personal time of day with 
everyone he meets on the decks. All of 
which naturally makes a passenger feel at 
home his first trip on the boat, and he will 
put himself out to return with the same 
captain. 

I know another captain who would not 
come near the dining saloon if his life de- 
pended on it, and the voyage might be 
completed without many of the passen- 
gers surmising that he is on board at all. 
By saying "good morning" to anyone he 
would break faith with himself. Yet, with 
a favored few he proves himself most con- 
genial and entertaining. He is the most 
bashful man in existence. 

Just a word here to the wise is suffi- 
cient: Don't ask the officers all the ques- 
tions you can think of. Nobody but the 
Lord above knows when the ship will dock, 
or how long the fog will last, or the an- 
swers to a thousand similar questions usu- 
ally inflicted every voyage upon the cap- 
tain and his men by unthinking passen- 
gers. 

They tell a story of the master of the 
old Cunarder Etruria — than whom a 



44 Planning a Trip Abroad 

better nor a gruffer seaman never 
breathed salt air. 

Upon one voyage across there had been 
fog for about sixty hours straight run- 
ning, during the whole of which time the 
captain had been on the bridge under con- 
stant strain without sleep or rest. 

Among the passengers was an elderly 
lady who soon became an inveterate ques- 
tioner. Concerning the fog her curiosity 
nearly consumed her. Unfortunately for 
the captain, her deck chair was on the up- 
per deck and right at the foot of the 
ladder that led to the navigating bridge. 

Suddenly one morning the ship came 
out of the fog blanket, as though through 
a wall, into fine, clear weather — a com- 
mon phenomenon. The captain immedi- 
ately left the bridge for a much needed 
rest in his cabin, for the continuous duty 
of almost three days and nights, with no 
other stimulant than frequent cups of 
strong coffee, had told on his nerves. 

"Captain," greedily questioned the cu- 
rious lady, as the "old man" stepped off 
the bridge ladder on his way to his room, 
"wasn't the fog terrible? Do you always 
have it in this part of the ocean?" 

Now, let me ask you, who under the blue 
canopy of Heaven, after having been on 
duty for sixty hours, could answer that 
question with any degree of courtesy? 



On Board 45 



Growled the captain: "How the 



do I know, Madam? I don't live here." 

Sometimes the bedroom or dining-room 
steward will wax most loquacious and of- 
fer all manner of information, no matter 
whether solicited or not. Let it go in one 
ear and out the other. It is surprising 
how little the average steamship steward 
these days knows about the sea. 

For years I had a perverted idea that 
the Rock of Gibraltar was on the African 
side of the Straits. On my first voy- 
age through the Straits, which happened 
to be westward, the bedroom steward over- 
heard my mentioning the fact that I in- 
tended to behold this eighth wonder in 
the annals of wanderlust, no matter what 
the time of day or night we passed it. 
Later I discovered that we were due to 
pass through the Straits about daylight 
of a certain morning. At the appointed 
hour upon the said morning, when I was 
peacefully oblivious to everything, even 
pertaining to Gibraltar, the steward 
knocked on the stateroom door with a ris- 
ing inflection and announced that we were 
about to pass the Rock. 

My stateroom was on the starboard 
side and I might easily have looked 
through the port and beheld the "Gib" in 
all its glory. Slipping on my overcoat 
and slippers (one time in a thousand 



46 Planning a Trip Abroad 

aboard ship when an overcoat makes an 
elegant bathrobe), I hurried, nevertheless, 
to the port side of the deck. It was still 
dark, but I gazed with wonder upon the 
huge black face of the rock (it was the 
cliffs of Tangier) directly abeam, and, 
although the thing didn't exactly resem- 
ble a full-page insurance advertisement, 
I was none the less duly impressed. To 
make it doubly realistic, a number of ta- 
ble stewards standing by the rail assured 
me that it was the "Gib" we were all so 
worked up about. Suddenly my bedroom 
steward whispered into my ear that "Gib- 
raltar might be seen to a better advantage 
from the starboard side of the ship, sir." 
Whereupon, the group of table stewards, 
every one of whom had certainly been 
through the Straits at least a dozen times, 
profited by the tip as well as myself. 

On deck, later in the day, an acquaint- 
ance whose room was on the port side of 
the ship and who also had evidently 
pledged the memory of his old geography 
teacher to see Gibraltar at all costs, said 
that his steward had awakened him, but 
that he had remained comfortably in his 
bunk and seen the magnificent sight 
through the porthole. 

Such is the fallacy of boyish impres- 
sions, not to mention dining saloon navi- 
gation. 



On Board 47 

Fees on Shipboard 

The passenger is expected to appro- 
priate a certain amount of his money to 
the payment of fees on board, and the 
extent of the sum is in direct ratio to the 
courtesies, which ought to be duties, he 
receives at the hands of the various stew- 
ards. Some of these steamship stewards 
draw in salary from the company that 
employs them as little as a shilling a week ; 
some, I am told, receive nothing. The 
work of a steamship steward is of the 
hardest kind and he really deserves every 
cent that the passenger gives him; but 
because he deserves it from a passen- 
ger is no argument against his deserving 
a decent wage from the company. He is 
practically on duty continuously from 
the beginning to the end of the voyage, 
and while in port he has to clean the rooms 
and put things in shape for a new ship- 
load of passengers. 

For the benefit of the uninitiated, a 
brief schedule of the fees expected will not 
be out of place: A table steward expects 
$2.50, or its equivalent in the coin of any 
realm, from each passenger whom he 
serves in the dining saloon. The steward 
who attends to your stateroom expects a 
like amount. For this he will bring fruit 
to your room every morning before break- 
fast, and do a hundred and one little serv- 



48 Planning a Trip Abroad 

ices of a like sort. Some travelers there 
be who give more, but this is neither clever 
nor necessary, and only holds the donor 
up to ridicule in the eye of the steward. 
The room steward also attends to the 
stateroom baggage and takes it ashore 
and places it under the proper initial for 
customs inspection. The bath steward 
expects one dollar from each regular 
bather. No baths ; no dollar. A gentle- 
man traveler, if he frequents the smoking 
room, may fee the steward who attends to 
that department one dollar, and that is 
a very liberal gratuity. A lady traveler, 
if on account of illness during the voy- 
age she requires the attentions of the 
stewardess, will be expected to fee her in 
addition to the room steward — usually 
one dollar, unless the passenger be con- 
fined to her bed and the stewardess is 
obliged to serve meals in the stateroom. 
One dollar is a liberal allowance for the 
deck steward to reimburse him for taking 
care of your rugs and chair cushions at 
night and seeing to your comfort on the 
decks. If he serves your meals on deck, 
in case of illness, he expects more, in pro- 
portion to his services. He it is who, in 
case of necessity, will bring you the usual 
menu from which you may select and have 
served to you on the deck anything tempt- 
ing that the card may suggest. 



On Board 49 

These are the necessary fees, and the 
amounts apply, for the most part, on "one 
cabin" ships as well as first ; although two 
traveling together on the "one cabin" 
boats can reduce the fees slightly per per- 
son. 

But there is a host of other servants 
on the first class boats who stand in your 
way conspicuously at the end of the voy- 
age. The chief steward will often expect 
anything from a dollar up, according to 
his attentions and the size of your party. 
The second steward on most large ships 
is the "head waiter," and can order any- 
thing not on the menu to be cooked for 
you especially, if you do not mind feeing 
him in proportion to his attentions. If 
the ship carries a band, you are expected 
to subscribe — from a quarter to fifty cents 
is sufficient. On many ships the band 
draws no salary whatever. If there is a 
gymnasium on board and you ride the 
camel occasionally, you are expected to 
fee the instructor to the extent of from 
a quarter to fifty cents. If you play 
deck games, the deck sailor on some of the 
ships will anticipate a little something for 
his trouble of chalking out the deck for 
shuffleboard or deck golf, or obtaining for 
you the implements with which to play. 
If you read the ship's books, the library 
steward expects a quarter at least. On 



50 Planning a Trip Abroad 

the smaller boats — the 
boats, for example — the aforementioned 
necessary fees will suffice, and even these 
hold only when the service has been satis- 
factory. Under no circumstances should 
the passenger pay his fees before the ter- 
mination of the voyage. 

Service 

To have laundry done on board is not 
often possible, except in the case of a 
long cruise, and then it is neither 
cheap nor of the best workmanship. I 
have paid as high as six cents per hand- 
kerchief. If absolutely necessary, how- 
ever, the bedroom steward will attend to 
it. On some ships passengers' shoes will 
be cleaned during the night if left outside 
the stateroom door upon retiring, but 
neither is this service often necessary. 
To indulge daily in having your shoes 
cleaned will prompt "Boots" — the nom de 
shine the English give him — to solicit a 
fifty-cent fee. The services of the ship's 
doctor are free to those suffering from 
seasickness. If the passenger is suffering 
from an ailment contracted before board- 
ing the steamer, the doctor will attend the 
case at a rate which he himself determines, 
usually the rate paid for such services 
ashore. The doctor is responsible for the 
state of health of the first and second class 



On Board 51 

passengers, and his certificate is accepted 
by the port authorities so that these pas- 
sengers may land without medical exam- 
ination as soon as the ship docks, unless 
dangerous contagious diseases are discov- 
ered aboard during the voyage. Smok- 
ing is permitted on board of a ship on any 
of the decks and, of course, in the smok- 
ing room; never in the gangways nor 
staterooms. 

Wines, beer and mineral waters may be 
had by signing a card, the aggregate bills 
being presented at the end of the voyage. 
Cigars and cigarettes may be obtained 
from the smoking room steward, and at 
very reasonable prices, for he does not 
carry them ashore and he has no duty to 
pay. Most steamship companies order 
their cigars wholesale direct from the man- 
ufacturer. The smoking room steward 
will also have a cribbage board or two, 
chessmen and board, etc., which may be 
borrowed from him by the passengers. 

Deck Sports 

There is a variety of deck games and 
sports on board of a ship in which the 
passenger may indulge as often as he sees 
fit. Perhaps the most popular is shuffle- 
board, the playing of which is not intri- 
cate enough to demand an explanation. 
Often there is held a shuffleboard tourna- 



52 Planning a Trip Abroad 

ment. There is also deck golf, a rather 
crude imitation of the original, owing to 
the limited deck space; deck tennis, swing 
bars, and quoits. On many of the liners 
where the plan of the ship has provided 
liberal deck space, there usually takes 
place a sort of an athletic carnival, or 
"Field Day," near the end of the voy- 
age. The small entrance fees to the va- 
rious events are devoted to the purchase 
of prizes from the ship's barber, who has 
a regular curiosity shop, selling a variety 
of articles from a soft traveling cap to a 
Teddy bear. "Field Day" permits the 
promulgation of all known varieties of 
mild athletic contests, from threading the 
needle to the tug-of-war. 

Social Entertainments 

Aboard some of the larger boats a cer- 
tain protected portion of the deck is 
screened off with weather cloths, deco- 
rated with the ship's code flags and the 
enclosed portion of deck powdered with a 
preparation of wax. Here dances are held 
in the evenings when the weather is fine. 

Most British ships terminate the social 
phases of the voyage with what is called 
the "concert," consisting of an evening of 
prearranged full dress entertainment in 
the saloon. Anyone among the passen- 
gers who is endowed, or nearly so, with 



On Board 53 

even a molecule of talent, is supposed to 
contribute voluntarily to the success of 
the evening. On some of the smaller and 
slower boats — notably those sailing from 
or to Philadelphia — half the passenger 
lists include the names of many well-known 
professional people not above the desire 
to help out at the "concert" to the best 
of their several abilities. To this momen- 
tous event a small admission is ordinarily 
charged, and printed programs sold, the 
proceeds from which are added to the 
maintenance fund for disabled British and 
American sailors, their widows and or- 
phans. 

On German boats, principally, the cul- 
minating social event takes the form of 
the captain's dinner, usually upon the 
last evening before making port. For this 
reason alone the function is not very aptly 
named, inasmuch as the supposed host, 
swamped with the responsibilities of the 
hour, does not often appear. However, 
this puts no curb to the gayety of the oc- 
casion. All hands are expected to look 
their sweetest, and the table decorations 
and extent of the menu fall nothing short 
of a banquet. 

Other Amusements 

Posted in the smoking room may be 
found one or more pools on the day's run, 



54 Planning a Trip Abroad 

which terminates at noon. Each of these 
pools may require the same or a different 
entrance fee. There are ten entrants to 
each pool, each entrant choosing a num- 
ber from to 9 not already selected. He 
pays his fee — the lowest is usually a dol- 
lar — to the smoking room steward, who 
places his name opposite the number cho- 
sen on the list. The last figure of the 
day's run as officially posted determines 
who wins the pool. For example: A man 
writes his name opposite number 7 on the 
pool list. If the official number of miles 
in the' day's run ends with a 7, such as 
417, he wins the pool, consisting of $10, 
including his own entrance fee, if that fee 
has been one dollar. Out of this the 
smoking room steward expects a small 
gratuity, and the remainder sometimes 
goes to provide refreshments for the nine 
losers. There may be two or three sep- 
arate pools posted for each day's run, and 
a person may enter both or all, using the 
same or different numbers, upon payment 
of the required fees. Often the last day's 
pool on the luxurious liners demands a $10 
or even a $25 entrance fee. 

To indulge with any freedom in the 
auction pools comes a little higher. The 
method of procedure is as follows: 

Suppose the lowest day's run that the 
ship ever made on any voyage was 360 



On Board 55 

miles, and that the highest day's run was 
420. Her average run, therefore, will be 
somewhere between 380 and 400 miles. 
Twenty men will be inveigled, of their 
own volition, of course, to deposit $1, 
$5, $10, or whatever entrance fee happens 
to have been determined upon. This de- 
posit is merely for the privilege of draw- 
ing one of the twenty slips of paper, each 
labeled with a number from 380 to 400. 
After all are drawn, each number is auc- 
tioned off to the highest bidder. For in- 
stance, if a person draws the number 392, 
he may or may not have to bid for it to 
retain it, according to whether or not 
anyone else considers that this number has 
a better chance of coinciding with the 
number of miles run. If he bids high 
enough he retains it and pays the price 
of his bid in addition to his entrance de- 
posit. After the numbers have been auc- 
tioned separately, the total numbers be- 
tween 400 and 420, the "high field," are 
auctioned off to the highest bidder, and 
the total numbers between 380 and 360, 
the "low field," are disposed of in the 
same manner. Thus, the same person 
may bid in the "high" and the "low fields" 
in addition to several numbers. It may 
cost him some money, but it is entirely 
permissible — even encouraged. The per- 
son who has bid in the number which co- 



56 Planning a Trip Abroad 

incides with the official number of miles 
in the day's run, as posted at noon, wins. 
If the pool has commenced at 380, as in 
the above example, and if the day's run 
has been a number of miles below 380, 
the pool goes to the man who bid in the 
"low field." If, under the same "condi- 
tions precedent," as they say in play 
writing, the posted run is a number of 
miles above 400, the pool goes to him who 
bid in the "high field." 

Auction pools are expensive divertisse- 
ments. 



in 

ARRIVAL IN EUROPE 

Passing the Customs 

COMPARED with New York, the 
matter of passing the customs in- 
spector in any port or frontier station of 
the Old World is a veritable sinecure. 
The advantages (which there certainly 
are) and disadvantages (which there 
have been proven to be) of our tariff sys- 
tem are moot questions and not for dis- 
cussion in these pages. Be this as it may ; 
if the customs examinations at the ports 
of entry or frontiers of the several coun- 
tries of Europe were as rigorous and ex- 
acting as our own, many Americans, af- 
ter having experienced about six of such, 
would think twice before making a second 
tour through Europe with a greater num- 
ber of encumbrances than a camisa de 
noche and whatever the Spanish is for a 
hair comb. 

In most countries on the other side 
merely a perfunctory examination of the 
traveler's baggage is made, especially 
that of an American traveler, who is gen- 
erally assumed to be bent upon sight-see- 
ing and not smuggling. 
57 



58 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Travelers' personal effects are allowed 
to enter all countries duty free. To- 
bacco, spirits, wine or matches, beyond 
the ordinary amounts to be used on a 
journey, are dutiable in most European 
countries. Patent medicines are subject 
to duty in France ; in Germany they are 
on the free list, except pills in suspi- 
ciously large quantities. Germany also 
taboos perfumery and matches in any 
quantity, and growing plants; but since 
no one craves the companionship of a pot- 
ted geranium on a trip through Europe, 
this latter warning may be ignored. In 
Portugal but one bottle of patent medi- 
cine passes free of duty, while in Eng- 
land the American reprint of a book copy- 
righted in England is liable to confisca- 
tion. Military rifles are not permitted 
to pass into any country, and for sport- 
ing guns a duty according to weight 
must be paid in Germany, Belgium and 
Portugal. In order to take a rifle or 
shotgun through Spain a permit from the 
Civil Governor of each District must first 
be obtained. 

No traveler, however, need have any 
fear of being compelled to pay duty in 
any European country upon such impedi- 
menta as are pertinent to the journey. 

The most expedient method of passing 
any customs inspection, in Europe as 



Arrival in Europe 59 

well as America, is to see first that all 
your baggage has been placed together 
on the dock or in the frontier station. 
Unlock the trunks so that the lids may 
be raised easily upon a moment's notice. 
Open wide the hand luggage so that the 
inspector may assume at a glance that 
you are not a smuggler. In most ports 
it is wise to button-hole an idle inspector 
yourself and lead him to your baggage 
the minute it has been brought ashore, 
or tell the porter to do this for you. If 
you have nothing dutiable and reply to 
that effect when questioned by the in- 
spector it is doubtful if he will wish to 
disturb your packing in the slightest. 
He may go as far as to lift the lid of one 
trunk ; he may not even look at your hand 
luggage. If you have dutiable articles, 
say so, and show them to the official. 
This expedites the examination consider- 
ably, and the inspector may possibly be 
more lenient. 

I once entered England through the 
port of Queensboro with two boxes con- 
taining fifty Dutch cigars each — one box 
of fifty being the legal limit. The seals 
on these were broken. My reply to the 
inspector when he asked me if I had any 
dutiable articles was, yes, a hundred 
Dutch cigars for my own enjoyment and 
consumption and that I expected to take 



60 Planning a Trip Abroad 

whatever were unconsumed, if any, on 
board the steamer when I set sail again for 
America. He said he would have to see 
them, and I showed them, having placed 
them conveniently on top of the packing. 
He asked me if my wife wasn't traveling 
with me, and I said she was. Then he 
asked me if one of these boxes of cigars 
wasn't hers, and I grasped the kindly 
hint and said it was, of course, certainly 
— all the while trying to imagine any in- 
spector mean enough to ask me to have 
her give a demonstration to prove it. 
But I paid no duty. 

At the frontier stations on the Conti- 
nent the heavy baggage will be taken out 
of the car and into the customs house at 
the depot, the train waiting a sufficient 
time for the passengers to have their bag- 
gage inspected and put back aboard the 
car. On the express trains hand bag- 
gage need not be taken out. It will be 
examined in the cars. Have it off the 
racks and opened, and the inspector may 
merely touch his cap to you. 

Anyone who is willing to allow a per- 
fectly respectable looking suit case or ex- 
pensive handbag to be plastered up with 
hotel advertisements — I suppose I am too 
commercial — should never be arbitrary 
concerning a customs inspector's chalk 
mark. Once I came in contact with such 



Arrival in Europe 61 

a person in the examination room at 
Folkestone. Judging by her grips she 
was a peripatetic catalogue of all the 
hotels in Europe. In her hand she car- 
ried a new shawl strap containing a thin 
steamer rug. This, together with her 
other baggage, the inspector marked with 
chalk to signify its having passed his ex- 
amination. With quite some temper and 
very little discretion the lady rubbed the 
chalk mark off. With just as much tem- 
per and as little discretion the inspector 
snatched the shawl strap and marked it 
a second time. The second chalk mark 
was rubbed off even more violently. The 
lady started through the door, but the 
doorkeeper, seeing that she carried a par- 
cel which bore no chalk mark and which, 
for this reason, had obviously not been 
passed by the inspector, refused to let 
her through. I had a train to catch and 
did not wait to see the outcome, but if 
she has arrived wherever she was going 
she must have suffered her shawl strap 
to submit to the chalk mark. 

Baggage Arrangements 

Passengers' heavy baggage, up to the 
usual limit of free allowance on British 
railways, may be registered from the 
landing stage at the port of entry to any 
address in London upon payment of six- 



62 Planning a Trip Abroad 

pence (twelve cents) for each piece. The 
address to which it is to be delivered must 
be marked plainly upon it. The owner 
receives a receipt. This system of reg- 
istration — a distant relative of our 
method of checking baggage — relieves the 
traveler of transferring it from one 
station to another or across the city. 
It will be shipped on the same train, 
where practicable, as that taken by its 
owner. The registration of baggage 
from England to any continental city 
saves the passenger all trouble and ex- 
pense of paying harbor dues and convey- 
ing it between train and boat, or vice 
versa; it also secures an allowance of 
fifty-six pounds free of charge on the rail- 
ways, and also the privilege of paying be- 
fore departure the charge for excess, if 
any, according to the fixed through rate. 
The charge for this continental regis- 
tration varies from fourpence (eight 
cents) per package to a shilling (twenty- 
four cents) per passenger, according to 
the cross-Channel route. 

The baggage checking system on Brit- 
ish railroads is pathetic — because there is 
none. If a traveler chooses to look after 
his own trunk on the run "up" to London 
— which is "down" from Liverpool — he 
must give it into the care of a porter and 
see that it is properly labeled with the 



Arrival in Europe 63 

name of the station in London (Padding- 
ton, Euston, or other terminus) and 
placed in the baggage car, or "luggage 
van," as they say in England. The pas- 
senger receives no check or the least 
assurance that it will reach the end of 
the journey simultaneously with the 
owner, or even at all. At the end of the 
trip, instead of being wheeled into the 
baggage room, it is dumped upon the pas- 
senger platform to be sorted out and 
claimed by its owner. The baggage men 
have no way of knowing that this or that 
or any other trunk belongs to you. The 
registration system obtains generally on 
the Continent ; but it is far better to leave 
all heavy baggage in storage at the base 
of operations and do your real traveling 
with suit cases and hand baggage. 

Baggage Regulations 

There is no free allowance of baggage 
made by the German railway administra- 
tion, with the exception of certain parts 
of North Germany, which control the fif- 
teen "luggage zones" into which the coun- 
try is divided. The charges for its 
transportation, however, are reduced ac- 
cording to the number of railway tickets 
issued. No definite rates are obtainable ; 
they are no more proportionately than 
those of other countries, and the traveler 



64 Planning a Trip Abroad 

will have to take the baggage man's word 
for them. 

Transportation Charges 

Neither is there a free allowance made 
on the Dutch, Belgium nor Italian rail- 
ways ; on the other hand, passengers 
holding ordinary through tickets to Aus- 
tria, Belgium, France, Holland, Hun- 
gary, Russia, Spain and Switzerland are 
allowed 56 pounds of free baggage per 
ticket if it is registered. Throughout 
England, Ireland and Scotland 120 
pounds of baggage may be transported 
free on an ordinary first class railway 
ticket, 100 pounds on a second class 
ticket, and as much on a third, if the 
porter who handles it be surreptitiously 
slipped a small fee. In France 66 
pounds are taken free; the charges in ex- 
cess of this are based upon one centime 
per 20 kilograms per kilometer, or, in 
plain English, approximately three- 
eighths of a cent per 44 pounds per mile 
— one kilogram equaling about two and 
one-fifth pounds, and one kilometer, 
nearly five-eighths of a mile. 

In Belgium no free baggage, except 
that carried in the hand to the extent of 
55 pounds, is allowed. The rate for its 
transportation is about one and one-half 
centimes per 25 kilograms per kilometer, 



Arrival in Europe 65 

which is about three-fifths of a cent for 
56 pounds a mile. 

Holland likewise puts the ban on free 
baggage, the rates varying on the basis 
of 22 pounds from two cents (5 Dutch 
cents) for twelve and one-half miles (20 
kilometers) to 20 cents (45 Dutch cents) 
for 250 miles (400 kilometers). 

Austria also reckons its baggage rates, 
for amounts above 66 pounds, upon the 
basis of 22 pounds, and this amount costs 
about one-twelfth of one American cent 
for five-eighths of a mile. In Switzerland 
the rate is one-tenth of a cent for the 
same amount for a like distance. 

Italy allows no free baggage. The 
rates of transportation are involved and 
complicated, a minute table of which will 
be found on the page before the time-ta- 
bles of the Italian railways in Brad- 
shaw's Continental Railway Guide — an 
inexpensive book procurable abroad which 
no independent traveler should be with- 
out. Throughout Spain and Portugal 
sixty-six pounds is the usual free allow- 
ance. 

Shipping Baggage 

The baggage master on board the 
steamer will contract to ship your bag- 
gage in advance between ports served by 
the line. Thus, if you land in Genoa and 



66 Planning a Trip Abroad 

wish your trunk to be sent to England 
to await your arrival after traveling 
leisurely up through Europe, the bag- 
gage master on board the ship will take 
charge of it, sending it by a boat of the 
same line or combination of lines — most 
likely one touching Genoa on the return 
voyage from the Far East — to the Brit- 
ish port of call — Plymouth or South- 
ampton, as the case may be. Here it will 
be stored until you notify the steamship 
agent to which city you wish it sent. 
The charge for this service varies accord- 
ing to the weight of the trunk — $2.00 be- 
ing an average estimate, but not includ- 
ing express charges from the British port 
to London or other city. 

Baggage in advance is also handled by 
the several tourist companies and by the 
English firms of Pickford, Carter Patter- 
son, The London Package Delivery Co., 
and the American Express, representatives 
of each being found in almost every depot 
abroad. Through any of these baggage 
may be called for at a hotel in any city 
and forwarded to any hotel in any other 
city, or held in storage for you. It may 
be shipped by ordinary freight or express 
vitesse. By ordinary freight it will take 
a trunk a month or more to climb through 
Europe from a Mediterranean port to 
England, but it will be only half as ex- 



Arrival in Europe 67 

pensive as express Vitesse. The charge 
for this latter service will be about one- 
half of a second class passenger fare for 
one small trunk. 

In all cases when baggage is shipped in 
advance, trunk keys are demanded by the 
forwarding agents so that it may be ex- 
amined by the customs inspector of the 
country to which it is consigned. Addi- 
tional expense may be incurred by insur- 
ing the baggage against fire, shipwreck, 
etc. 

Railway Information 

At every railway and steamship ter- 
minal throughout Europe uniformed in- 
terpreters are on duty, some employed by 
the line itself and some by the tourist 
companies, who are perfectly capable of 
giving authentic information as to the 
leaving time of trains, baggage, hotels, 
points of interest, and so on. Included 
in a galaxy of languages, these interpre- 
ters invariably speak English, and they 
expect a small fee from the party accom- 
modated. The "runners" of all the prin- 
cipal hotels, sent to meet trains and who 
solicit business, also speak English more 
or less fluently. 

Porters, Cabs and Tips 

Uniformed porters meet trains through- 



68 Planning a Trip Abroad 

out the whole of Europe and will carry 
passengers' baggage to or from the train 
and the cab. To secure the services of 
a porter on entering a station is no trick 
whatever ; as the train moves in simply 
lower the window sash of the compart- 
ment and beckon to one as he stands in 
line on the platform. He will follow 
your compartment until the train comes 
to a stop, will hop in, and, after unload- 
ing the baggage from the racks overhead, 
will slip his carrying strap through the 
different handles, and walk off. For this 
service he should always receive a fee 
amounting to not more than the local 
equivalent of five American cents for each 
piece. In England this will be about 
three-pence; in Germany 20 pfennigen; 
in France 25 centimes; in Italy 25 cen- 
tesimi, and so on. The duties of the por- 
ter include calling a cab for his patrons. 
Usually the money taken in by the porters 
is handed to a collector, who makes his 
rounds several times a day and divides the 
amount equally among them. 

Cabs of all kinds and many vintages 
will be found at all railway stations and 
steamship docks. The horse-drawn and 
motor taxicabs are now generally in evi- 
dence. Their introduction has been a 
boon to the traveling American, who in 
years past was compelled to waste valu- 



Arrival in Europe 69 

able time in dickering and bargaining, 
only to feel after all his trouble that he 
had been fleeced. The taxicabs — whose 
meters are regularly inspected by the mu- 
nicipal authorities almost everywhere — 
preclude all this. One or two European 
countries have yet to see them put into 
operation — Holland, for example, where 
the cab rates are high and where the driv- 
ers often connive with the hotel porters to 
squeeze the top prices from patrons. 
Taxicab rates abroad, however, are low. 
In London the cabs not equipped with 
taximeters contain a card showing the 
rates for certain distances. 

Purchasing Railroad Tickets 

Local railway tickets between one town 
and another, single fares and return, are 
best procured at the ticket windows at 
the railway stations precisely as we do 
in America. Through tickets or tickets 
covering a whole tour are most advan- 
tageously purchased from one of the re- 
liable tourist companies or from the rail- 
road of whose special rate tour you avail 
yourself. The tickets will be offered at 
the lowest rates and the purchaser may 
seek the advice of an experienced man as 
to routes, and so on. If you have de- 
cided upon your route before sailing, 
tickets covering it in toto may be pur- 



70 Planning a Trip Abroad 

chased from the steamship company or 
from the agent of one of the large tourist 
concerns in this country. If landing in 
England it is best to buy the steamship 
ticket through to London, thus taking 
advantage of the reduced railway rate 
from the port offered by the steamship 
company. 

Time-tables 

Every British railroad from London to 
any of the Channel ports issues reliable 
books of time-tables of through trains to 
the Continent and between the principal 
cities. These are usually sold for a 
small amount and not given away as they 
are in America. But perhaps the most 
comprehensive books of both local and 
long distance time-tables, containing dili- 
gence routes, advice as to hotels and a 
wealth of other information for the trav- 
eler, are the paper-bound books known 
as "Bradshaws." One of these, the 
"British Bradshaw," deals with British 
railways, steamship sailings and every- 
thing of information to the traveler per- 
taining to the British Isles. It may be 
bought at any railway terminal or tourist 
office for a sixpence. The "Continental 
Bradshaw" is larger and more expensive. 
It costs fifty cents, and a better edition, 
more securely bound and containing maps 



Arrival in Europe 71 

of the various countries, costs three shill- 
ings (about seventy-five cents). The 
"Bradshaws" are issued monthly and 
they are authentic and up to date in the 
matters of time-tables and rates. It is 
quite the most important article in every 
"first aid to the traveler" kit. Of course, 
being a British publication, it is printed 
in English. There are reliable French, 
German and Dutch time-tables, too, but 
these are printed in the language of the 
country of whose railways they treat, and 
are not of the wide scope of the "Brad- 
shaw;" but they are more specific as to 
the different methods of conveyance and 
may be used to advantage in a country 
through which a particularly thorough 
tour is being made. 

In Belgium, Spain and Italy, railway 
time is reckoned from one o'clock (which 
is one a. m.) to 24 o'clock (which is 12 
o'clock midnight). This is at first a 
little confusing to the American, but if 
he will remember that the numeral 12 
must be subtracted from any hour 
greater than 12 in order to ascertain the 
p. m. hour, he will soon become accustomed 
to it. 

Economical Ways to Travel 

With regard to economical ways to 
travel it must be remembered that, dis- 



72 Planning a Trip Abroad 

tance for distance, boat travel is always 
cheaper than on the railways. If you 
would save money in travel — not exactly 
save it, but spend less — patronize the 
smaller hotels which cater to the native 
element. It may be a difficult matter for 
some of us to refrain from bragging about 
being Yankees (the common name abroad 
for all Americans), but the moment we do 
we will be charged accordingly. Certain 
hotels in Paris and London are no 
cheaper than the most fashionable hotels 
in New York. The reason is that their 
patrons are mainly Americans used to 
paying exorbitant prices for everything. 
And it is not an uncommon occurrence 
that the European gets a lower rate at 
these same hotels. 

Circular Tour Tickets. 

The number of independent circular 
tours that may be made through Europe 
is legion. Possibly those of the widest 
scope tap the countries included in the so- 
called Rundreise Union. The word run- 
dreise really means a circular tour or 
"round trip," but the Rundreise ticket is 
issued between any points within the 
Union, providing a certain distance is 
traveled. The traveler may go as far as 
he likes — clear to Constantinople, if he 
wishes — and double back by the same or 



Arrival in Europe 73 

a different route within the time limit and 
so long as he doesn't wish to carry other 
than hand baggage. 

A Rundreise tour of Holland or Bel- 
gium, providing it covers at least 249 
miles (400 kilometers) in length, may be 
commenced at Flushing and ended at the 
Hook of Holland or Rotterdam or Am- 
sterdam or Ostend or Antwerp, or it may 
be commenced at any of these points and 
ended at the starting point or any other. 
In the case of a tour confined to Belgium, 
the only condition is that the journey 
must include a complete circuit of not less 
than 155 miles (250 kilometers). 
Throughout the Rundreise Union these 
tickets may be issued for a straight re- 
turn or a circular journey if a minimum 
distance of 373 miles (600 kilometers) is 
covered when the validity of the tickets is 
60 days; 1,865 miles (3,000 kilometers) 
when the validity is 90 days ; and 3,107 
miles (5,000 kilometers) when the validity 
is four months. Providing a distance of 
373 miles is covered, Rundreise tickets 
may be issued over any route for a wholly 
German tour, either straight, return or 
circular, but in this case the journey must 
end at the starting point. 

The holder of a Rundreise may stop 
off where and as often as he will, and by 
its use he will save twenty to thirty per 



74 Planning a Trip Abroad 

cent, of the single fares covering the same 
route. The countries included in this 
Union are France, Belgium, Holland, Ger- 
many, Austro-Hungary, Switzerland, part 
of Italy, all of Scandinavia, the Balkan 
States and Turkey. The tickets are 
valid for any and all seasons, the only 
conditions being those of traveling the re- 
quired distance within the time limit and 
with no allowance of free baggage. 

During the summer months the varie- 
ties of Continental circular tickets offered 
by the English railroads and the various 
tourist agencies are too numerous to men- 
tion in detail. The rates of these are 
considerably cheaper than single fares. 

Season Tickets 

Several Continental countries issue 
what are called season tickets, valid for 
from five to forty-five days and good over 
all the railway lines in that country at 
any and all times within the time limit. 
For example, a person may travel over 
the whole Belgian railway system (2,890 
miles) for five days and nights continu- 
ously for the sum of $2.35 (11.75 francs) 
third class ; $4.10 (20.50 francs) second 
class ; or $6.15 (30.75 francs) first class. 
Tickets good for fifteen days may be had 
at double the above prices. An un- 
mounted photograph of the holder, meas- 



Arrival in Europe 75 

uring an inch and a half square, must be 
supplied to be affixed to the ticket, and a 
deposit of a dollar is also required, which 
will be refunded, at any Belgian railway- 
station if the ticket be given up not later 
than twelve o'clock noon on the day fol- 
lowing the last date for which the ticket 
is valid. These tickets are obtained on 
short notice in England from the agencies 
of Dean and Dawson, John Frame, the 
Belgian Mail Packet Company, or the 
London and Northwestern Railway. Sev- 
enteen-day excursion tickets between 
London and Ostend are issued in connec- 
tion with the Belgian season tickets for 
about $10, $7.50, or $5, first, second or 
third class respectively. Additional 
rules and regulations for the holders of 
these tickets will be supplied by the agents. 
Tourist season tickets, available over 
most of the Swiss railways (mountain lines 
not included) are issued for periods of 
15, 30 or 45 days at the rates of $17, first 
class ; $12, second class ; $9, third class 
for the 15-day tickets — $25, first class ; 
$18, second class ; $15, third class for the 
30-day tickets — $33, first class; $23, 
second class ; $17, third class for the 45- 
day tickets. An unmounted photograph 
of the purchaser is also required in Swit- 
zerland. So, in this country where the 
promotion of touring is one of the princi- 



76 Planning a Trip Abroad 

pal industries of the people, it is possible 
for a person to travel for a year at a cost 
of forty cents a day, first class. In Lon- 
don these season tickets may be procured 
from the general agency of the Swiss 
Federal Railways. Season books on the 
Swiss Lake boats are issued at low rates. 
Distance Tickets. 

Distance railway tickets (akin to our 
mileage books) are issued by the Spanish 
railroad companies for travel over a dis- 
tance of from 1,243 miles (2,000 kilo- 
meters) to 7,458 miles (12,000 kilome- 
ters). The charges for these are from 
about $30 (165 pesetas) first class, and 
$22 (121 pesetas) second class, for the 
shortest distance, to $158 (792 pesetas) 
first class, and $120 (607 pesetas), second 
class, for the longest distance. They are 
valid for from three months to a year. 

Special Tickets 

In France, travelers may purchase a 
permit, good over the seven divisions of 
French railways for three months for $19, 
which allows the holder to buy second or 
third class railway tickets at one half the 
regular rates "Sectional tickets," or 
tickets good over each of the seven sec- 
tions of the French Railway system, are 
also sold at greatly reduced rates, allow- 
ing of continuous travel for fifteen or 



Arrival in Europe 77 

thirty days over a certain section, some- 
what as in Belgium. In addition, the 
traveler is given as much as 185 miles 
of free transportation in order that he 
may reach the frontier, I might say, of 
the section over which his ticket is valid. 

In Holland six or eight persons travel- 
ing together, first or second class respec- 
tively, may purchase tickets for one half 
the regular fare of a single journey, or 
for the round trip, at the rate of single 
fares. Another special rate ticket in 
Holland for eighty Dutch cents, first 
class, or sixty cents second class, allows 
the purchaser to travel from Amsterdam, 
The Hague, Rotterdam, Utrecht or 
Gouda to any one of twenty different 
towns without stopover; while in summer 
cheap tickets are sold over certain routes, 
valid for but one day without stopover. 
Thus a person may travel from one sta- 
tion on a line to any other station on the 
same line, distance not considered, for 
four gulden ($1.60), first class, or three 
gulden ($1.20), second. There are also 
thirty-day tickets good over all the Dutch 
railway lines proportionately cheaply. 

Kilometer books for sale at one third 
of the regular single ticket rates are 
good throughout the German Empire ; and 
the Baden State Railways issue a 1, 000- 
kilometer book, good for one year, for 



78 Planning a Trip Abroad 

sixty marks ($15), first class; and forty 
marks ($10), second. 

In Italy there are division tickets as in 
France; the thirty-day ticket, good for 
continuous travel over all lines within the 
stated time, sells for 300 lire ($60) first 
class, or £10 lire ($42) second. The 
sixty-day ticket costs 47,5 lire ($95) first 
class, and 330 lire ($66) second class. 
Fifteen and thirty-day tickets, good 
throughout Sicily, are offered at equally 
low rates; $15 or $11, first or second 
class for a fifteen-day ticket; $20 or $16 
for a thirty-day ticket. 

What Class to Travel 

The general formula for European 
railway and steamship travel is to go 
third class in Scotland, England and 
Wales. Ireland's third class is not up to 
the standard of that of the others. 
Throughout the Continent, except in 
Spain, the second class carriages are very 
comfortable. On steamships and all 
river and lake boats it is better to go first 
class, which is even cheaper than second 
on railways, and more than likely the 
through ticket will permit of this. 

Avoid traveling on Sundays and holi- 
days if possible, and especially for long 
distances, unless first class. Should the 
second class compartments be crowded, 



Arrival in Europe 79 

as they usually are on Sundays and holi- 
days, a small gratuity offered to the 
guard will enable him to see his way clear 
to slip you into a first class compartment, 
and no questions asked. Unless in a 
hurry, it is unwise to travel at night. By 
so doing, not only is the intervening 
country lost to the sight-seer, but the 
"sittings up" are not conducive to a com- 
fortable night's rest. 

To use the sleeping cars in Europe is 
expensive business. In the first place, the 
traveler must purchase a first class fare ; 
in the second, he must pay a rather ex- 
orbitant supplement for the use of a 
berth. In addition to these, if he travels 
by the "trains de luxe" — often the only 
ones between certain points that carry 
sleeping cars — he must pay another sup- 
plement for this privilege. For example, 
the distance from Paris to Marseilles is 
536 miles. A sleeping berth in the "train 
de luxe" between these points will cost 
$13.60, or about two and one-half cents 
a mile — approximately, five times as 
much as the American rate. This is in 
addition to a first class fare, which, in 
this case, would be $19.30, or nearly four 
cents a mile. A sleeping berth on the 
night express between Paris and Mar- 
seilles costs $10, or about one and three- 
quarters cents a mile. 



80 Planning a Trip Abroad 



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94 Planning a Trip Abroad 
Hotels and Pensions 

The prices of hotel and pension accom- 
modations in Europe vary considerably. 
In certain countries they are higher than 
in others. Always they are higher in the 
cities than in the small towns and country 
districts. Always they are higher "in 
season" than "out of season" — whichever 
the "season" may be. The migratory 
American usually establishes the "sea- 
son," and when he begins his annual exo- 
dus to Europe the rates go up. 

As much as for its scenery Switzer- 
land is famous for its hotels. The Swiss 
are the hotel keepers of the world, which 
is well to remember when traveling in 
places out of the beaten track. If there 
is a Swiss hotel keeper in any town, Wai- 
kiki or Walla Walla, it is a foregone con- 
clusion that his hotel will be the best in 
that town for the price. More than 800 
hotels are noted in the little handbook 
published by the Association of Swiss Ho- 
tel Proprietors, and on the average the 
tourist pays from $3 to $4 a day for full 
board. 

Costs of Accommodations 

The ordinary charge for bedroom, 
light and attendance at the first class ho- 
tels in Switzerland is from three and one- 



Arrival in Europe 95 

half francs to five francs; for the con- 
tinental breakfast of tea or coffee, rolls, 
butter and honey, one and one-half 
francs ; for the dejeuner, or luncheon, 
three to four francs ; for the table d'hote 
dinner, four to six francs. 

But here just a word about "light" and 
"attendance." 

They cannot seem to convalesce from 
the custom abroad of charging for the 
light, electric or gas, that the guest may 
consume while in residence at the hotel. 
In days past, which are not so very far 
passed, at that, the proprietor doled out 
candles to his patrons when they returned 
at night, for which he made a small 
charge on the bills. The introduction 
of gas and electricity was too sudden 
abroad to permit so deep rooted a custom 
as charging for light to be annulled on 
the minute. 

"Attendance" simply means being 
waited upon. The hotel servants must 
be paid something at least by the proprie- 
tor, and the proprietor since time imme- 
morial has taken it upon himself to 
charge against his patrons an additional 
item in order to help cancel his outlay. 
It is a little like what might be the privi- 
lege of staying at a hotel in America and 
then being charged in addition for elec- 
tricity and heat used, for having the maid 



96 Planning a Trip Abroad 

make up the bed and for allowing the 
clerk to watch you sign your name on 
the register. The custom of charging 
for "attendance" is as chronic abroad as 
charging for "light." But the item is a 
small one. 

In the smaller, so-called "second class 
hotels," quite as clean and comfortable as, 
although less pretentious than the "first," 
the charges are: for bedroom, one and 
one-half francs to two ; for breakfast, one 
to one and one-quarter francs; for the 
table d'hote at noon, two to three francs ; 
for supper in the evening, one and one- 
half to two francs. 

The rates for bedroom increase accord- 
ing to the size and location of the room, 
but the rates for meals are usually fixed. 
By this schedule one may stop in Switzer- 
land at first class hotels for $3 or less a 
day, and at the smaller hotels for $2. 
Pensions are supposed to be somewhat 
cheaper, but the rates at some of the 
better known ones will be found to be 
quite as high as those of the hotels, while 
the accommodations are usually inferior. 
A prolonged stay at any hotel may be 
made at a daily rate considerably lower 
than those mentioned above, in which 
case it is best to inquire the inclusive rate 
for "full pension" — meaning room, board, 
service and lights. One may live com- 



Arrival in Europe 97 

fortably as cheaply in Switzerland as in 
any country in the world. 

Comparative hotel accommodations in 
Italy are more expensive, although I 
have lived at one of the best hotels in 
Naples for $2 a day, including three ex- 
cellent meals. The hotels that cater to 
the native element are ill-kept and un- 
cleanly. 

Through provincial Germany the rates 
hold relatively the same as in Switzerland, 
and the hotels are of the same high order. 
In the large cities, especially the capitals, 
rates are somewhat higher. In Dresden, 
$2 a day will cover the expense of room 
and three meals at one of the smaller but 
scrupulously clean hostelries to the right 
of the station and just beyond the tunnel 
under the railway tracks. An excellent 
room and excellent meals in a German 
pension in Berlin — not one of the matiy 
which cater to the American music stu- 
dent, however — may be had for as little 
as $9 a week. 

The hotel accommodations of provin- 
cial France are just as cheap, although 
not up to the standard of Switzerland or 
Germany. In Paris the same relative 
values hold as in other European capi- 
tals. 

Norway, Sweden and Denmark offer 
excellent and comparatively inexpensive 



98 Planning a Trip Abroad 

accommodations for the tourist, and $£ 
or slightly more a day will pay for room 
and meals at any of the less pretentious 
houses throughout Scandinavia. 

Holland, with all her polished door- 
steps and shining brasswork, is conspicu- 
ously lacking in good reasonably priced 
hotels. The best in the country are none 
too good, and by the prices they charge 
one cannot compute their various degrees 
of excellence, whether good, bad or in- 
different. Holland is one of the cheapest 
of European countries to travel through, 
but one of the most expensive to stop in 
over night. There is an old saying, how- 
ever true it may be, that a gulden (forty 
cents in American money) in Holland 
goes only as far as a mark (twenty-three 
cents) in Germany. Be that as it may. 

Belgian moderate priced hotels are no 
worse than those of her neighbor, nor are 
they much better. 

In Austria, Hungaria and all down 
through the Balkan States, improbable as 
it may seem in the case of the latter, the 
hotels in the larger cities are of the first 
water as to quality and very reasonable 
as to price. I wish I could say the same 
for the small town inns, but then the 
Middle East has not yet come into its own 
as a tourist territory. 

Other than the best hotel in any small 



Arrival in Europe 99 

Spanish town is next to impossible if the 
traveler expects to enjoy any degree of 
comfort, and even this will be expensive 
considering the accommodations. 

Generally speaking, hotels in Great 
Britain are the most expensive in Europe. 
The ordinary charges at London hotels 
vary from about $2 a day in the less pre- 
tentious houses to $5 and upwards, 
(mostly upwards) in the most expensive, 
and this for room only. The most eco- 
nomical method of indulging in hotel life 
in London, a system that may be applied 
advantageously to any continental city as 
well, is to bargain for room and break- 
fast only, taking lunch and dinner wher- 
ever you choose. Room and breakfast 
at a good hotel in London (the "temper- 
ance" hotels, for example, patronized 
mainly by visitors from the Colonies) 
may be had for, say, $1.35 (five shillings 
and sixpence). Lunch should not exceed 
a shilling and a half, and the city is 
crowded with interesting little French 
and Italian restaurants where sixty cents 
(two shillings and sixpence) will buy a 
sumptuous table d'hote dinner, wine often 
included. 

Provincial England, Ireland, Scotland 
and Wales abound in comfortable and 
cleanly little inns where $2 a day will pro- 
vide for everything. 



100 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Tips in Hotels 

As to tips abroad, the traveler through 
Europe will make no mistake by adhering 
to a strict ten per cent, ratio. Ten per 
cent, of any hotel bill, divided propor- 
tionately among those who serve you, is 
all that is expected. In addition, the 
equivalent of five American cents for each 
piece of baggage may be given the porter 
for bringing it to your room upon arrival 
and for toting it back to your cab again 
at the end of your stay ; and the field 
marshal who presides over the lobby — 
the concierge on the Continent, the hall 
porter in England — will never refuse a 
small tip in* any event, but one is neces- 
sary only when he has imparted requested 
information about trains, points of in- 
terest, and so forth. A franc, or its 
equivalent in the currency of the coun- 
try, is about the proper amount per per- 
son if remaining under his jurisdiction 
for three or four days, and considerably 
less in proportion in the case of a party 
of four or more. 

It is not necessary to tip the chamber- 
maid for a one night stay, but when re- 
maining for a longer period ten cents per 
person will be amply sufficient. If at 
your request she prepares a bath for you 
■ — which, by the way, is one of her many 



Arrival in Europe 101 

duties — she will expect ten cents — six- 
pence, half a franc, or some coin of the 
same value. To your table waiter, when 
he submits your bill at the termination 
of your visit, should be given the ten per 
cent, ratio, less the amount you may have 
already given the chambermaid. When 
the charge for "attendance" is included 
in the bill the ten per cent, donation may 
be dispensed with, but nevertheless, the 
waiter will expect at least a little some- 
thing for having waited upon you. If a 
protracted stay is made in any one hotel 
the ratio of tips may be reduced to eight, 
or seven, or even five per cent. 

Hotel Coupons 

To anyone not conversant with the 
French language — which is not only the 
language of diplomacy but of hoteldom 
abroad — and who is not endowed with the 
sang froid (shall I say?) to walk delib- 
erately away if the price as quoted is not 
satisfactory, I should suggest that the 
traveler in Europe for the first time pro- 
vide himself with the "hotel coupons" is- 
sued by the well-known tourist companies 
abroad. These may be purchased at 
varying prices, according to the desired 
accommodations at "first" or "second 
class" hotels. What has been said above 
with regard to the standard of hotels in 



102 Planning a Trip Abroad 

various countries may prompt the pro- 
spective purchaser of hotel coupons which 
"series" to buy, depending upon the coun- 
try or countries to be visited whether for 
"first" or "second class" houses. A dol- 
lar and eighty-seven cents in American 
money will buy one day's coupons accept- 
able for room, continental breakfast and 
the regular table d'hote dinner at any 
and every "second class" hotel in any and 
every city and town in Europe, which is 
included in the lengthy list provided with 
the coupons, leaving lunch to be provided 
for in addition. This precludes the pos- 
sibility of being charged exorbitant rates. 
The "second class" hotels as listed are 
often the best in certain places, and you 
can usually make up your mind, by look- 
ing over the list before you get off the 
train, which hotel you will favor. The 
hotel coupons good at every hotel men- 
tioned in the "first class" list cost but 
slightly more than those of the "second 
class," various "supplements" being noted 
in addition. 

You will thus be able to compute the 
approximate expense of a month's or six 
weeks' stay on the Continent in advance. 
Unused coupons are redeemable at the 
purchasing office for fifty or sixty per 
cent, of their original value. 

The disadvantages of these coupons 



Arrival in Europe 103 

are: that the traveler is limited as to his 
choice of hotels in every town; that, be- 
cause the coupons are not actual cash, he 
is sometimes bundled into an inferior 
room; and that he might have bargained 
for the same accommodations at a lower 
figure than the coupons cost him, which 
is frequently possible. If, on a month's 
trip, the traveler provides himself with 
coupons for fifteen days, which he may 
use at his discretion, and fights his own 
way for the remaining fifteen, he will sel- 
dom regret the adopted method of self- 
maintenance. 

Seeing Points of Interest 

There is not much definite information 
to be offered the traveler with respect to 
European guides. Sometimes they are well 
worth the money spent on their services. 
More often they are not. Every place 
of interest abroad is full to overflow- 
ing with them, good, bad and indifferent. 
Sometimes they are a necessity, almost; 
sometimes they are an encumbrance. In 
a place like Rome, where there is so much 
to see that a whole summer's sojourn 
would not exhaust it all, a reliable guide 
engaged by the day is a profitable invest- 
ment. But then again there are so many 
incompetent cicerones in Rome that the 
authorities of the hotel selected should be 



104 Planning a Trip Abroad 

consulted before entering into any agree- 
ment. Indeed, if desirous of procuring 
a guide by the day, the guides vouched 
for by the good hotels are the best 
throughout Europe; then, if they prove 
incompetent, you have some place to reg- 
ister an effective complaint. In a place 
like Rome, too, the really reliable guides 
are licensed by the local historical so- 
ciety and the information they impart 
is practically authentic. The average 
charge for a guide anywhere is about 
$2.00 a day and expenses (carriage hire, 
car fares, etc.), with an additional ten 
per cent, of the bill as a gratuity if he 
proves satisfactory. Owing to the im- 
portunities of beggars and mendicants 
and venders of curios it is sometimes 
rather more than annoying to make cer- 
tain excursions in the vicinity of Naples 
without a guide. 

In museums and art galleries a guide 
will be more of a nuisance than a help. 
What interests you the most may not be 
included in his catalogue of exhibits, and 
in the end you will see nothing but what 
he chooses to show you in order to work 
off his "line of talk," thus giving you the 
impression that he is a very learned per- 
sonage and deserves the exorbitant rate 
he will invariably try to charge. The 
various guidebooks exploit the contents 




^^7i 



Arrival in Europe 105 

of the galleries and museums fully, and 
from them you can learn as much as any 
human guide can tell you, and rely bet- 
ter upon the information. 

When it comes to an object of univer- 
sal interest, such as the Cologne or the 
Milan cathedral or St. Peter's in Rome, 
the services of one of the local English 
speaking guides may be secured, and to 
the traveler's advantage. Plenty of such 
fellows will be found at the entrance and 
will show a party through, explaining 
everything, for a nominal charge ranging 
from fifty cents to a dollar. If time 
presses, and a second visit cannot be 
made, this method cannot be improved 
upon. 

However, it seems to me a sacrilege to 
be personally conducted about any Euro- 
pean city by a chattering guide. An ex- 
cellent method to pursue is to read what 
Mr. Baedeker, or other reliable guide- 
book person, has to say about your next 
stopping place before you get there. 
Determine from his descriptions or from 
what you already know to be the "big 
things" in the town and the things that 
you will wish to see the most. You cannot 
see everything everywhere abroad in a 
summer, and) this you will have to admit 
before you are through. After you have 
selected your hotel, walk out to the near- 



106 Planning a Trip Abroad 

est bookshop and buy a little pocket plan 
of the city, or, by purchasing the special 
edition of the Continental Bradshaw you 
will have plans of all the principal Euro- 
pean cities contained in one volume. By 
studying the plan for half an hour you 
will glean a better idea of the town in gen- 
eral than by walking about it aimlessly 
for a week. After you have studied the 
plan, jump into a horse-drawn taxicab 
and tell the driver (and the powers of pan- 
tomime are wonderful if you cannot speak 
the language) to drive you around the 
place for an hour or two and point out 
the objects of interest. During your 
royal progress through the city ask him 
every question that comes into your head, 
for you will have to tip him anyway. 
Thus, when you come to visit those places 
of interest the next day, perhaps, you will 
be able to plan your sight-seeing com- 
paign so as to waste as little time as pos- 
sible. It is a good idea, too, to take a 
ride around the city in an electric car, 
and it is a pleasant and profitable way to 
spend an evening. Even if you do not 
speak a word of the local language it will 
make very little difference — the car is 
sure to come back some time to the place 
where you got on. Personally, I try to 
see the important historical things in 
every city, but I must confess that the 



Arrival in Europe 107 

people and their customs as they are to- 
day appeal to me a great deal more. So, 
after doing my duty in looking at things 
historical a part of the day at least, I re- 
lax in the evenings and "follow the crowd." 
It is educational suicide to stay in the ho- 
tel in the evening and try to study up on 
what is in store for the morrow. 

The little town of Alkmaar, the cheese 
capital of North Holland, has a system 
of showing its visitors the sights and 
apologizing for its eccentricities that 
might be emulated by many a city in Eu- 
rope. 

On Fridays of each week there is held 
a cheese market in Alkmaar — a sight that 
is well worth spending a night there in or- 
der not to miss a single phase of it. As 
you walk about the next morning between 
the piles of cheeses in the market square, 
at every move divulging the fact that you 
are a visitor, you will doubtless be politely 
accosted by a youth who, in more or less 
fluent English, will offer to explain the 
making and marketing of cheeses and in- 
cidentally show you the sights of the lit- 
tle city. 

These erstwhile guides of Alkmaar are 
pupils in the high school, admonished to 
sally forth on market days and air the 
English they have been taught in conver- 
sation with English speaking visitors. 



108 Planning a Trip Abroad 

They are well versed in everything of in- 
terest that the town contains ; they accept 
no gratuities ; and they, as well as you, 
profit by the half day thus spent. 

A happy human combination of Bae- 
deker and Bradshaw is he of the epaulets 
and gold cord — the hotel concierge. He 
conducts a sort of lbureau of general in- 
formation just large enough for himself 
and his desk "on the right as you enter." 
He knows all about trains and boats and 
trolley services, excursions in the vicinity, 
important points of interest in the city 
and how to get there. He will unburden 
his soul for the asking — and a certain 
aforementioned gratuity at the end of 
your stay. But being neither archaeolo- 
gist nor art critic, his store of authentic 
information is limited to where to go and 
how. 

Routes between Countries 

The shortest steamship route between 
Ireland and Scotland is the forty-mile run 
from Larne to Stranraer, the boats leav- 
ing Stranraer upon the arrival of the 
through London and Northwestern Rail- 
way trains from London or Edinburgh. 
This is the most popular passenger route 
between the two provinces, and the most 
important. The Irish Sea proper, how- 
ever, seems to be scarred severely by the 



Arrival in Europe 109 

tracks of steamers from Ireland to Eng- 
land. One may cross from Belfast to 
Fleetwood (138 miles), from Grenore to 
Holyhead (70 miles), from Dublin to 
Holyhead (46 miles), from Dublin direct 
to Liverpool, or by one or two other less 
important routes. 

From England to the Continent there 
are numerous routes across the Channel 
and the North Sea, and these it might be 
better to catalogue for the convenience of 
the reader. Below will be found a list of 
the most important of the different serv- 
ices and the lines by which they are op- 
erated. 

FROM ENGLAND TO BELGIUM 

To Antwerp from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
shire Ry. Co., Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Saturdays. 

To Antwerp from Grimsby: 20 hours, Great Cen- 
tral Ry. Co., Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Saturdays. 

To Antwerp from Hull: 22 hours, Wilson Line, 
on Saturdays. 

To Antwerp from Leith: Gibson Line, Tuesdays 
and Saturdays. 

To Antwerp from London: Great Eastern Ry. 
Co. Daily except Sunday, via Harwich. 

To Antwerp from Newcastle: 28 hours, Tyne- 
Tees S. S. Co., on Saturdays, via Harwich. 

To Bruges from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
shire Ry. Co. 

To Ghent from Goole: Lancashire and Yorkshire 
Ry. Co., Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

To Ghent from Hull: Wilson Line, on Satur- 
days. 



110 Planning a Trip Abroad 

To Ghent from Leith: Gibson Line, weekly. 

To Ostend from Dover: 3 hours, Belgian Mail 

Steamers. Frequent crossings. 
To Ostend from London: Gen'l Steam Nav. Co., 

Wednesdays and Saturdays, 9 a. m. 

FROM ENGLAND TO DENMARK 

To Copenhagen from Goole: Lancashire and 
Yorkshire Ry. Co., Wednesdays. 

To Copenhagen from Hull: Finland Line, Wed- 
nesdays and Saturdays. 

To Copenhagen from Leith: Leith, Hull and 
Hamburg Co., Thursdays. 

To Copenhagen from Newcastle: Wilson Line, on 
Wednesdays. 

To Esbjerg from Grimsby: United S. S. Co. of 
Copenhagen, Mondays and Thursdays. 

To Esbjerg from Harwich: United S. S. Co., 
Ltd., Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Sat- 
urdays. 

FROM ENGLAND TO FRANCE 

To Bordeaux from Liverpool: Compagnie Gen- 
eral Transatlantique, 12th and 30th of each 
month. Moss Line, weekly. 

To Bordeaux from London: Gen'l Steam Nav. 
Co., on Saturdays. 

To Boulogne from Folkestone: (1 hour and 40 
minutes), Southeastern Ry. Co., frequent 
crossings. 

To Boulogne from Leith: Gibson Line. 

To Boulogne from London: (9 hours). Bennett 
S. S. Co., three times weekly. 

To Brest from Plymouth: Great Western Rail- 
way Co., Saturdays 8 a. m. 

To Caen from Newhaven: London, Brighton and 
South Coast Ry. Co., Wednesdays. 

To Calais from Dover: (1 hour to 1 hour and 20 
minutes), Southeastern and Chatham mail 
steamers. Frequent crossings. 

To Cherbourg from Plymouth: White Star and 
American Trans-Atlantic Lines, Wednes- 
days and Saturdays. 



Arrival in Europe 111 

To Cherbourg from Southampton: White Star, 
American Trans-Atlantic lines, London and 
South Western Railway Co. 

To Dieppe from Newhaven: (Three and one-half 
hours), London, Brighton and South Coast 
Railway Co. Frequent crossings. 

To Dunkirk from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
shire Ry. Co., Tuesdays. 

To Dunkirk from Hull: (20 hours), Wilson Line, 
Saturday evenings. 

To Dunkirk from Leith: Gibson Line, on Thurs- 
days. 

To Havre from Liverpool: Booth Line. 

To Havre from Southampton: London and South 
Coast Ry. Co. 

To Marseilles from Hull: Wilson Line, every two 
weeks. 

To Marseilles from Liverpool: Bibby Line. 

To Marseilles from London: Peninsular and Oc- 
cidental and Orient Lines. 

To Nantes from Weymouth: Great Western Ry. 
Co., Wednesdays. 

To St. Malo from Southampton: London and 
Southwestern Ry. Co. 

To St. Nazaire from Liverpool: Compagnie Gen- 
eral Transatlantique. 

FROM ENGLAND TO GERMANY 

To Bremen from Hull: (36 hours), Argo S. S. 

Co., Mondays and Fridays. 
To Bremen from London: (36 hours), Argo S. S. 

Co., Tuesdays. Thursdays and Saturdays. 
To Brunsbiittel (Kiel Canal) from London: 

United Steamshipping Co., Ltd. 
To Dantsic from Hull: Wilson Line, every ten 

days. 
To Hamburg from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
shire Ry. Co., Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays 

and Saturdays. 
To Hamburg from Grimsby: (30 hours), Great 

Central Ry. Co. Daily except Sunday, 7 

p. M. 



112 Planning a Trip Abroad 

To Hamburg from Harwich: Gen'l Steam Nav. 
Co., Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

To Hamburg from Hull: Wilson Line, Wednes- 
days and Saturdays. 

To Hamburg from Leith: Leith, Hull and Ham- 
burg Co., Mondays, Wednesdays, and Sat- 
urdays. 

To Hamburg from London: (Liverpool Street 
Station), Gen'l Steam Nav. Co., Wednes- 
days and Saturdays, 8:40 p. m. 

To Hamburg from Newcastle: (36 hours), Tyne- 
Tees Steam Ship Co., Saturdays. 

To Hamburg from West Hartlepool: West Har- 
tlepool Steam Nav. Co., Ltd., Wednesday 
and Saturday evenings. 

To Holtenau from London: United Shipping Co., 
Ltd. 

To Konigsberg from Hull: Wilson Line, weekly. 

To Stettin from Hull: Wilson Line, Fridays. 

FROM ENGLAND TO HOLLAND 

To Amsterdam from Goole : Lancashire and York- 
shire Ry. Co., Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

To Amsterdam from Hull: Hull and Netherlands 
S. S. Co. 

To Amsterdam from Leith: Gibson Line, Mon- 
days. 

To Amsterdam from London: Holland S. S. Co., 
Wednesdays and Sundays. 

To Delfziel from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
shire Ry. Co., Tuesdays. 

To Flushing from Queensboro: Zeeland Shipping 
Co., via South Eastern and Chatham Ry. 
Daily. 

To Flushing from Folkestone: Zeeland Shipping 
Co., via South Eastern and Chatham Ry. 
Nightly. 

To Harlingen from Hull: Hull and Netherlands 
S. S. Co. 

To Hook of Holland from Harwich: Via Great 
Eastern Ry., 8:30 p. m. daily, from Liver- 
pool Street Station, London. 



Arrival in Europe 113 

To Rotterdam from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
shire Ry. Co., Mondays, Wednesdays and 
Saturdays. 

To Rotterdam from Grimsby: Great Central Ry. 
Co., Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 7 

P. M. 

To Rotterdam from Hull: Hull and Netherlands 

S. S. Co., Daily except Sunday. 
To Rotterdam from Leith: Gibson Line, twice 

weekly. 
To Rotterdam from Liverpool: Cork S. S. Co., 

Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
To Rotterdam from London: Batavier Line, 

Daily, Sunday excepted. 
To Rotterdam from Newcastle: (24 hours), Tyne- 

Tees Shipping Co., Tuesdays. 
To Rotterdam from Southampton: Holland 

American Trans-Atlantic Line. 

In addition, one may travel direct by 
boat from various British, German and 
Dutch ports to Gibraltar or any of the 
other principal ports along the Mediter- 
ranean. Ships sail for the Far East from 
Southampton, London, Bremen, Ham- 
burg, Rotterdam or Amsterdam almost 
every day, calling at Lisbon, Gibraltar, 
Marseilles, Genoa, Naples and Brindisi. 
The passage rates are more than double 
the overland railway fares between the 
same points, and the journey takes more 
than twice the time. 

The trip across the English Channel is 
always a kind of a bugaboo to the traveler 
susceptible to seasickness. There are two 
ways of looking at this cross-Channel busi- 
ness ; the longer the route selected, the 



114 Planning a Trip Abroad 

calmer will be the passage; and the 
shorter the route, the sooner it is over. 
The two British and French ports nearest 
to each other are Dover and Calais, and it 
takes but a little over an hour to make the 
passage of twenty-five miles from one to 
the other. But just in this "neck" is 
where the currents meet as they surge 
through the Strait of Dover from the 
North Sea and the Atlantic. On account 
of the time saved the traveler by this route 
it is the most expensive. 

The seventy-nine miles from Newhaven 
to Dieppe are covered in three and a half 
hours. At this point of the Channel the 
North Sea current has about exhausted its 
strength, and the current from the Atlan- 
tic has not yet begun to accumulate force. 
Because of the time consumed it is the 
cheapest direct daily cross-Channel route 
between England and France, with the ex- 
ception of the all-night trip from South- 
ampton to Havre. 

Across the lower end of the North Sea 
from England to the Hook of Holland or 
Flushing the night may be spent in com- 
parative comfort. 



IV 
WHAT TO SEE ABROAD 

EVERY country in Europe — every 
district, indeed, has its peculiar fas- 
cinations for the tourist, and with little 
difficulty he may map out his tour to in- 
clude only those sections which hold 
whatever strikes his fancy the most. 
After having guide-booked through the 
great museums of art and antiquities in 
the large cities ; after having hurried 
along their lively thoroughfares and 
sipped coffee with the cosmopolitan 
crowds in their gay cafes ; after having 
strolled about in their handmade parks 
and pleasure places, the traveler may 
awake at the end of a few hours' train 
ride to find himself inhaling the atmos- 
phere of medieval times in some little 
out-of-the-way corner where the modern 
methods of a prosaic workaday world out- 
side have but little influence. Whatever 
the traveler's hobby, it may be gratified 
through the simple procedure of purchas- 
ing a railway ticket. 

Algeria 

From Marseilles it is an all night's 

115 



116 Planning a Trip Abroad 

trip in a fast French steamship to Algiers. 
Here in the narrow, slatternly, dimly 
lighted alleyways of its Arab quarter the 
traveler finds many types and conditions 
that will come as a forceful surprise in a 
city of such importance. The business 
and residence sections of Algiers are typi- 
cally French. Not so in Tunis — the east- 
ern terminus of the North African rail- 
way line. Tunis is essentially Arabic and 
its picturesque bazaars are famous 
throughout the world. Living in Tunis 
is cheaper than in Algiers and its situa- 
tion is more beautiful and healthful. The 
ruins of ancient Carthage are quite close. 
And if you go to the edge of the desert 
and see the original "Garden of Allah," 
take the train south from Constantine to 
Biskra. Biskra is as near the great Sa- 
hara as civilization seems to care to risk. 

Austria 

In addition to the Tyrol and the Salz- 
burg environs, much of the interest in 
Austria lies in its great cities, Vienna, 
Prague, Budapesth. Vienna is a gay, 
cosmopolitan city, rich in new architec- 
ture of a grandiose type and in remains 
of the Middle Ages. It lies in a plain 
on the Danube Canal with spurs of the 
Alps in the distance. In the neighbor- 
hood of the city is the charming Vienna 



What to See Abroad 117 

forest and the Danube Valley called 
"Wachan" with the finest views. 

Styria and Carnithia contain the major 
part of Austria's forest land, the small 
towns, and agricultural communities. 
From Trieste along the Adriatic includ- 
ing Croatia and Dalmatia is a region rich 
in interest to the traveler. Towns abound 
in Roman ruins, and the air of Italy 
seems transported there. The life is gay 
and luxurious, and the costumes pic- 
turesque. 

Bohemia is suggestive of Germany, and 
Prague, its capital, is a more German 
Vienna on a less elaborate scale. 

The Balkan States 

In Montenegro one may observe at 
close range the most superb specimens of 
physical manhood, each heavily armed and 
dressed in that picturesque native costume 
which time and the best fashion tailors of 
Europe have never been able to remedy. 

In Bosnia and the Herzegovina the 
traveler may peep behind the lattices of 
Turkish life, since this district was not 
so very long ago nominal Turkish terri- 
tory and since the Turk, therefore, is a 
predominant element of the population. 
He and his art are the important objects 
of interest in the cities. Visiting these 
Austrian provinces will make it seem that 



118 Planning a Trip Abroad 

within a few hours the traveler has been 
whisked from civilized Twentieth Century 
Europe into the primitive East, with all 
its mosque minarets and veiled goddesses 
of the harem. Bazaars abound, and the 
scenery of the rural districts is delightful. 
Throughout Servia, Bulgaria and Rou- 
mania are colors and types galore, set in 
the bustling activity of modern cities 
clanging with trolley cars, lighted with 
electricity and paved with asphalt. If 
you ever become tired of wandering in 
and out among the more advertised and 
better known sections of Europe in search 
of that ever elusive something new, a trip 
through these Balkan States, where the 
East meets the West, the fusion point of 
Yesterday and To-morrow, will fill your 
cup of delight to overflowing. 

Bavaria 

Outside of Italy, Bavaria is unques- 
tionably the most interesting country in 
Europe. The peasantry are the most in- 
telligent, kindly and attractive to be 
found anywhere. All through the north- 
ern and central parts the scenery is en- 
chanting in its rolling, rural peaceful- 
ness, and here are found ancient walled 
towns of exceeding picturesqueness like 
Rothenburg, and cities full of art and 
architecture like Nuremburg. 



What to See Abroad 119 

In the central part is a chain of splen- 
did cities. Ulm, with a Rathaus a blaze 
of wonderful mural paintings that cover 
the outer walls from ground to roof; 
with queer old buildings, and with a 
cathedral whose spire is the loftiest in the 
world. Augsburg with its Renaissance 
fountains, its medieval streets, and its 
curious Fugery, a town within a town. 
And Regensburg, with its great cathe- 
dral, and its curious towers of defense 
attached to private houses, a few of 
which still survive, and the wonderful 
Walhalla overlooking miles and miles of 
the Danube and the great Bavarian plain. 

Then to the south you find the splen- 
did scenery of the Alps, secluded moun- 
tain villages, old castles, peaceful valleys, 
and great and rugged peaks. Here, too, 
lie the matchless Bavarian lakes, and 
most unique of all, those incredible castles 
built by mad Ludwig, some on lonely 
islands on the shores of silent lakes, and 
some on almost inaccessible mountains, 
but all of them gorgeous as strange 
dreams. 

Belgium 

You can travel five centuries in Bel- 
gium in thirty minutes. From the 
modern watering place of Ostend to un- 
spoiled medieval Bruges is only fourteen 



120 Planning a Trip Abroad 

miles, yet you plunge from a fashionable, 
garish summer resort, tasseled and tin- 
seled, to a city asleep with the dust of 
centuries upon it. A little farther on, 
only twenty-eight miles, is Ghent, a city 
large and rambling, presenting a curious 
mixture of ancient life and Twentieth 
Century commercial activity. Antwerp, 
bustling, commercial and progressive, lies 
thirty miles to the eastward, and at the 
same distance is stately Brussels, a beau- 
tiful city of splendid buildings, boule- 
vards, clean streets and pleasant shops. 
Such are the sharp contrasts in this little 
land of ancient Flanders and Burgundy. 
And the contrast does not end here. 
London has a population greater than all 
Belgium, yet this small kingdom of big 
cities is the most thickly populated in 
Europe. In size it is not quite as large 
as Maryland. The State of Texas could 
accommodate twenty-three such coun- 
tries within its borders. 

But what Belgium lacks in size it makes 
up in interest, for it is one of the most 
fascinating of the European States from 
the traveler's standpoint. The art and 
architecture of the Middle Ages are better 
preserved here than in other countries of 
Western Europe, for Belgium escaped in 
a large measure the terrible ravages of 
the great religious and political upheavals 



What to See Abroad 121 

that disastrously affected other parts of 
Europe. Thus in Belgium we have splen- 
did churches, richly sculptured guildhalls, 
ancient market places, belfries, whole 
streets of red-roofed and gabled houses, 
splendid works of art by native painters 
— all these are there as living manifes- 
tations of old Flanders' medieval glory. 

For the same reason the student of art 
revels in Belgium's display of master- 
pieces of painting. No other country, 
with the exception of Italy, has such a 
wealth of native art. It is never exotic, 
here, as in other art centers of Europe, 
for here Memling, Van Eyck, Rubens 
and a score of others lived and painted, 
and their work remains in its native 
environment. 

In Bruges Belgium possesses one of the 
picture towns of Europe. It is verily a 
dream city. Called "the Northern Ven- 
ice," it combines all the quaintness of the 
Netherlands with the soft beauty of 
Venetian waterways. 

The medieval charm of Bruges is in- 
describable. The streets of curious old 
gabled houses of every size and shape, 
irregular and mellow, breathe the atmos- 
phere of a glorious past. Miles of can- 
als interlace the city and into these are 
built the houses with their crumbling, 
moss-grown walls. 



122 Planning a Trip Abroad 

The hotels of Belgium are good and 
the cost of living is moderate. 

BRITISH ISLES 

England 

England will always be a delight to the 
traveler in that he finds in a compara- 
tively small compass a whole world 
thrilling with interest. Historic remains 
are in evidence from the early Roman 
times, nearly all in excellent preservation. 
There is a variety of scenery, strikingly 
beautiful, and a wealth of splendid archi- 
tectural magnificence. One is struck 
with the sense of completeness or finish 
of everything in England, and it appears 
that even the old forests are little 
changed since earliest times. Every- 
where the tourist is in touch with the 
past and the future at the same time. 
There are unlimited railway facilities, 
making travel all over the island a simple 
matter. 

The districts suggested in the follow- 
ing, which include the finest scenery, the 
places of greatest historic and literary 
interest, and the most characteristic 
architecture all could be combined in a 
consecutive tour of no great extent. 

In the north is the famous Lake dis- 
trict included in the counties of West 



What to See Abroad 123 

Moreland, Cumberland, and the north of 
Lancashire. There are sixteen lakes — 
the largest ten and a half miles — which, 
despite their size, include some of the 
finest wild scenery of Europe. Winder- 
mere is of greatest size, while Ullswater 
and Durwentwater are of almost equal 
attraction. Grasmere was once the home 
of Wordsworth and almost every spot 
about here is reflected in his poetry. 
Coniston, Keswick, and Ambleside are of 
great interest also. There is ample op- 
portunity for mountain climbing, the 
ascent of Helvellyn being perhaps the 
most noted. 

Sherwood Forest asd the Dukeries 
command considerable interest in the 
beautiful walks and drives, due to the 
fact that so many of the ancient seats of 
the peerage are found here. The circular 
drive is about twenty-five miles in extent, 
and the entire district may be visited in 
two days. It includes Newstead Abbey, 
the home of Byron, and Walbeck Abbey, 
with its great underground rooms. 
Sherwood Forest is the quondam demesne 
of Robin Hood. In the vicinity is Lin- 
coln Cathedral, begun in 1074. It is 
very well preserved, and is imposing on 
account of its splendid situation, size, 
and exquisite detail. This district is in 
Nottingham and is either approached 



124 Planning a Trip Abroad 

from the city of this name or from Ches- 
ter by way of Sheffield and Mansfield. 

Derbyshire Peak is approached from 
Manchester or Derby and includes the 
fascinating valleys of the Dove and the 
Derwent. The country is both rocky and 
wooded, and especially Dovedale is worth 
seeing, with its narrow valley, hemmed in 
by limestone cliffs and fantastic rocks 
and surrounded by woods. The famous 
old baronial mansion, Haddon Hall, is 
here. 

The Shakespeare country is in the 
central west of England and shows many 
fine examples of the characteristic Eng- 
lish thatched cottage, and is beautiful 
in pastoral scenery of English country- 
side along field and river. Warwick, a 
town of great antiquity, makes a good 
base from which to take walks and 
drives or excursions on the picturesque 
Avon. The town itself is full of interest 
in its half-timbered buildings, but espe- 
cially so in Warwick Castle, which dates 
from Saxon times, and is a fine example of 
feudal architecture. Kenilworth and old 
Guy's Cliff are within walking distance 
to the north, as is also Stratford to the 
south. Lady Godiva's Coventry is worth 
visiting and the road from this town to 
Stratford is esteemed the most beautiful 
walk in England. Stratford, besides its 



What to See Abroad 125 

Shakespearean interest, is beautiful in its 
environs. 

The Valley of the Wye is reached 
from Gloucester — there is a fine cathedral 
here — and offers a wonderful boat trip 
from Monmouth to Chepstow. There 
are such romantic ruins as Tintern Abbey 
and Raglan Castle to be seen, and from 
one point, Wyndcliffe, may be had one 
of the finest views of river scenery in 
Europe, compared by many to the Ger- 
man river views. The Wye district is a 
good entry point for South Wales. 

Devon and Cornwall. This district in- 
cludes the peculiar English moors and 
the wonderful coast district of the south- 
west peninsula. Cornwall abounds in 
walks about the rocky coast. It has a 
particularly mild climate that seldom 
goes below 50 degrees, even in winter, 
and tropical vegetation flourishes. At 
Tintagel the great promontories rise to 
200 feet. Lands End, Penzance, and The 
Lizard are rich in walks along serpentine 
cliffs, smugglers' caves, and quaint fish- 
ing villages. Clovelly in especial is 
picturesquely beautiful in its whitewashed 
cottages with their green doors. This is 
the country of Kingsley, while just north 
is the famous Doone Valley. Dartmoor, 
to the east, is a district, twenty-five 
miles by twelve, of peaty moss hills and 



126 Planning a Trip Abroad 

valleys out of which spring great granite 
blocks, tors and menhirs. There are 
many evidences of the ancient Britons in 
this section. The noted resorts of Tor- 
quay and Teignmouth are on its out- 
skirts. 

Surrey and the Downs with the water- 
ing place of Brighton are south of Snow- 
don. The Downs are wild and solitary 
heath, hilly, and concealing several very 
quaint villages. Dorking and Guildford 
are but twenty-three and a half miles 
from London, and within walking dis- 
tance of each other. The Canterbury 
Pilgrim's Way led past these towns, and 
travelers may be pleased to follow it to 
the Cathedral and town of that name. 

No English tour is complete without a 
visit to several of the Cathedral towns. 
The most attractive are Canterbury, Lin- 
coln, and Gloucester, which have been 
mentioned, Durham, York, Peterborough, 
Norwich, Ely, Cambridge, Wells, Win- 
chester and Salisbury. The majority of 
these places can be combined in a circular 
tour of the island without special digres- 
sions. Besides this, one should include 
a visit to Oxford College, if possible. 
Chester is another Cathedral town well 
worth seeing, but its great sights are the 
old Roman wall, which runs completely 
about the town, and the peculiar old 



What to See Abroad 127 

houses — the Rows — which project over 
the street. 

London is England's greatest center 
of interest in countless ways, but one 
point of special note is that, notwith- 
standing its great size, there are many 
country excursions that may be taken 
from it, most taking less than an hour. 

Epping Forest with its historic Eliza- 
beth's hunting lodge, is but fifteen miles 
away; Hampton Court, fifteen; Waltham 
Abbey, twelve and three-quarters ; Har- 
row, with the famous school and its 
scenic attractions, eleven and a half; 
Chigwell, with Dickens' old inn, twelve 
and a half; Epsom, with its inn of the 
Seventeenth Century, fourteen miles; St. 
Albans, a very ancient abbey town, 
twenty; Stoke Poges Church, twenty-one; 
Windsor Castle, twenty-one; Jordan's, 
the burial place of Penn, twenty-two; 
Chalfont St. Giles, the home of Milton, 
twenty-three miles. All these places are 
reached by swift trains and contain that 
very beautiful village scenery which is 
characteristic of England, and for which 
she is famous the world over. 

Ireland 

Ireland offers the traveler much that 
cannot be seen in any other section of 
Europe. There is the rolling landscape 



128 Planning a Trip Abroad 

of lush green vegetation, charming lakes 
with mellow old ruins, picturesque, white- 
washed, thatch-roofed cottages, the 
ubiquitous jaunting car, and a peasantry 
that for wit and good nature is not 
equaled anywhere in the world. Contrary 
to general impression there are scattered 
throughout Ireland charming old ruins of 
castles, abbeys, round towers and Celtic 
crosses that will well repay a visit. 

By far the most interesting part of 
Ireland is the south where lie Cork, Blar- 
ney Castle and the Killarney Lakes. The 
Lakes of Killarney, three in number, are 
large with wooded shores and a number 
of splendid ruins of castles and abbeys 
dating back six centuries. The passenger 
from America can disembark at Queens- 
town, from which Cork is only a half 
hour by rail and Blarney is but five miles 
out of Cork. The Killarney Lakes lie 
sixty-nine miles from here and are 
reached in three and a half hours by train. 
Leaving your steamer early in the morn- 
ing, it is possible to visit Cork, go out 
and kiss the Blarney Stone and see the 
sun set over Killarney all in the same day. 

Dublin is 186 miles from Killarney and 
Belfast is 112 miles north of Dublin. 
From here the Giant's Causeway, which 
is in the extreme north of the island, may 
be comfortably seen by an all-day excur- 



What to See Abroad 129 

sion. It is then only a few hours' trip 
across the channel to either Scotland or 
England. 

All of Ireland worth seeing can be 
done in six or seven days, the south 
alone in three or four days. 

Scotland 

There are few lands that have become 
backgrounds of literature to the extent 
that Scotland has. Burns, Wordsworth, 
and Scott have written much of its beau- 
ties and this fact, besides its intrinsic at- 
tractions, makes it of prime interest to 
the traveler. Touring is greatly facili- 
tated by the conveniences of circular tour 
privileges, which combine coach routes 
with railway and steamboat transporta- 
tion. The best season is in June, July, 
and August. 

Going north from Carlisle, one enters 
the Burns country by way of Dumfries. 
Ayrshire is delightful as an agricultural 
district, cut by beautiful streams, and 
rich in the scenes of Burns' life. Far- 
ther north are the Scottish lakes, Loch 
Lomond and Loch Katrine, and the far- 
famed Trossachs. The Trossachs are 
the richly wooded country at the eastern 
end of Loch Katrine. This romantic 
section is perhaps the most beautiful in 
Scotland. The lakes are surrounded in 



130 Planning a Trip Abroad 

places by steep cliffs, in places by thick 
forest, and are dotted by picturesque 
islands, while all about rise high moun- 
tains, of which the majestic Ben Lomond 
is the best known. In Loch Lomond is 
the Ellen's Isle of Scott's "Lady of the 
Lake." 

By way of the interesting town, Cal- 
lander, one may visit Stirling and the 
historic Stirling Castle, and go south to 
Edinburgh. This city is considered one 
of the most beautiful of Europe in that 
its fine architecture is so well combined 
with the advantages of a naturally beau- 
tiful situation high above the surround- 
ing country. There is the old town to 
be visited and the castle perched on a 
bold rock and once the ancient seat of 
the Scottish kings. Holyrood Castle 
contains many relics of history. Edin- 
burgh is the starting point for the Sel- 
kirk Mountains and the land of Scott. 
There is much to see here of which may 
be mentioned Hawick and Jedburgh Ab- 
bey. Melrose is especially worth while 
with its beautiful ruined abbey and Ab- 
botsford, Scott's home, near by. 

For the rest there is too much to 
mention of the various boat trips along 
the coast through the peculiar firths. It 
is worth while, however, to speak of the 
journey to the Skye. This is generally 



What to See Abroad 131 

made by rail from Glasgow to Oban on 
the west coast. Three and a half miles 
from Oban is Dunstaffnage Castle, whence 
came the famous Stone of Scone. Trips 
by boat start for various islands, among 
them Staffa, with its strange caves of 
great interest, the most famous of which 
is Fingal's Cave, that penetrates the 
island for 200 feet. The Oban-Skye trip 
takes from two to three days. The island 
is remarkable for its wild grandeur of 
scenery and savage solitudes. Portree 
and Storr Rock, especially Quisang, here 
should be visited, as there is here prob- 
ably the most striking rock scenery in 
Great Britain, a combination of moor- 
land cliff and fantastic pinnacles that is 
picturesque in the extreme. 

The Caledonian Canal cuts across 
Scotland, running southwest from Inver- 
ness to the west coast. It makes a de- 
lightful trip by boat, affording diversi- 
fied scenery of mountain and plain. 
North of this canal is the Highland dis- 
trict with its wild solitude. 

As regards the language and people 
of Scotland, there is but little difference 
to be noted between the appearance of the 
peasant class and that of England, ex- 
cept that in the Highlands one may see 
the kilted men with more or less frequency. 
English is spoken everywhere, and in but 



132 Planning a Trip Abroad 

few cases will the traveler come across 
those speaking only Gaelic. 

Wales 

Wales is the most mountainous part of 
Great Britain, and though the experi- 
enced mountain climber will encounter no 
peaks to climb for altitude records, he 
will find a grandeur of scenery that will 
stir the most phlegmatic. Tourists might 
spend from three to six weeks to ad- 
vantage here, but those pressed for time 
may obtain a good idea of the district in 
a week and have an opportunity to visit 
the finest spots. 

In the north of Wales is found the most 
picturesque scenery diversified in moun- 
tain, valley, and coast. The chief gates 
to this section are Chester and Shrews- 
bury. 

From Chester one is within easy reach 
of Conway where is situated the famous 
castle of that name, justly considered one 
of the finest in England. Water reaches 
two sides of the great rock on which it 
stands ; the rest is within the walls of the 
town of which it forms a part. Near by 
at Carnavon is another even more exten- 
sive castle with a walled town. The 
vicinity of the coast here is full of appeal 
with its great rugged cliffs and indented 
shore. Four of the chief places of inter- 



What to See Abroad 133 

est are Llandudno, a historic watering 
place, Great Orme's Head, Bangor and 
Penrhyn Castle, and the famous isle of 
Anglesey with Beaumoris Castle. 

Inland a short distance is the moun- 
tain district of Snowdon. From the little 
village of Beth Gellert — an ideal spot in 
its picturesque mountain surrounded 
houses — the most desirable places are 
within easy reach. There is Llanberis, 
often spoken of as the Chamonix of Wales, 
with the wild Llanberis Pass, where there 
is instant change from dense forest to 
crags of richly colored rocks, and again 
glens thick with moss and trailing vines. 
Snowdon (3,560 ft.), the highest moun- 
tain in England or Wales, is reached 
from here, and from its summit one may 
have a wonderful and extended view over 
the country to the sea. South and east 
lies Llangollen where one may visit Valle 
Crucis Abbey, a romantic ruin of the 
Fourteenth Century. In this section 
other places that may be visited are Port 
Madoc and Harlech, Bettwys-y-Coed, 
Blaenan Ffestiniog, and Dolgelly, with 
its beautiful mountain, Cader Idris. 

The great charm of this part of Wales 
is the ever varying character of the land- 
scape, from quaint village to wild wood- 
land, and from bare crag to forest tarn, 
with occasional glimpses of rough and 



134 Planning a Trip Abroad 

ragged coast. There is a great oppor- 
tunity for the traveler who wishes walk- 
ing tours, and it is very easy to make 
arrangements for drives in any sort of 
equipage from a buggy to a brake. 

South Wales is reached from Glouces- 
ter by way of Cardiff and Swansea, and 
is valued as the haunt of the pedestrian 
traveler. The sea coast bears the chief 
interest of this section and contains 
strange remains of the earlier civilization. 
There are stretches of wild moor and 
woodland, cromlech and shattered cliff. 
The main places of interest are the Gower 
Peninsula, Tenby and Manorbier Castle, 
Pembroke Castle and St. David's, with 
its cathedral, and Monkton Priory. 

Now that steamships land at Fish- 
guard on the west coast of Wales, this 
district via the Severn Tunnel is on the 
direct route to London. 

Brittany 

In all Europe probably no section pre- 
sents such a succession of medieval towns 
as Brittany. From remarkable Mont St. 
Michel, perched high on its rocky emi- 
nence washed by ocean tides, around the 
entire circuit of its fascinating towns to 
Vitre, the unspoiled, the traveler finds in 
Brittany a kaleidoscope of ancient cities 
with centuries-old gabled houses, curious 



What to See Abroad 135 

streets, delightful time-scarred churches, 
not magnificent like those in the sister 
province of Normandy, but old and per- 
meated with the atmosphere of ages past, 
arcaded streets, pretty turreted cha- 
teaux, an occasional castle of the Middle 
Ages frowning down on the now peaceful 
inhabitants, and peasants whose very 
dress seems to defy the progress which 
is creeping so slowly into this rugged 
peninsula. 

This peninsula of west-central France, 
washed by the English Channel and the 
Atlantic Ocean, a little larger than the 
State of Maryland, is a rugged country 
of stern, wild coast and rocky promon- 
tory, granite-seamed hills, wooded 
heights, rocky moorland, tree-studded 
fields and deep-cut valleys — a landscape 
ever changing and never monotonous. 

Just as Normandy, which lies immedi- 
ately to the north, is the home of magnifi- 
cent ecclesiastical architecture, so Brit- 
tany has an idividuality of its own ex- 
pressed in these singular towns and sim- 
ple peasants dressed in the costumes of 
their ancestors. 

The costumes of the peasants are strik- 
ing. The distinctive feature is the head- 
dress worn by the women. The men wear 
shoes or sabots and are clad in either 
short jackets or loose blue smocks, flar- 



136 Planning a Trip Abroad 

ing trousers and broad-brimmed hats with 
velvet streamers. On wedding and 'par- 
don or feast days both men and women 
array themselves in the most remarkably 
brilliant clothes of richly embroidered 
silk and velvet. 

Here at least is a country where es- 
cape may be had from the high cost of 
living. The hotels are not pretentious, 
but are neat and the food good. The cost 
per day of room and board need not be 
more than $1.50 or $2.00. 

Although remote in civilization, Brit- 
tany is readily accessible. St. Malo is 
overnight by rail from Paris or by boat 
from Southampton, England. From here 
a tour of the fringe of interesting towns 
can begin and the circuit completed at 
Vitre, which is the most easterly city 
and is only five hours from Paris. 

A circular tour of Brittany, from 
Paris and return, covering every town 
worth visiting, can be had for exactly 
eighty-five francs, or seventeen dollars, 
second class, the way you are likely to 
travel if you are sensible and demo- 
cratic. 

A circular tour of Brittany should 
include the following towns: Mont St. 
Michel, St. Malo, Dinan, Morlaix, Lan- 
derneau, Douarnenez, Quimper, Rospor- 
den, Concarneau, Pont Aven, Quimperle, 



What to See Abroad 137 

Carnac (for the ancient Celtic ruins), 
Quiberon, Vannes, Josselin, and Vitre. 

Dalmatia 

Dalmatia, which is Austrian territory, 
offers a coast line not often seen by the 
tourist, but replete with architectural 
antiquities and interesting peoples. The 
Italian influence has been felt all down 
along this Adriatic shore and often the 
costumes and appearance of the people 
are identical with those of the Italians. 
Gravosa is one of the walled cities of 
medieval Europe that time has not 
changed materially. Spalato was the 
birthplace of the composer, Franz von 
Suppe, and contains the most renowned 
domestic ruin of Roman times — the an- 
cient palace of the Emperor Diocletian. 
A few miles outside the city they are 
excavating Salona — a Dalmatian Pom- 
peii. Zara is the home of the maraschino 
industry and the capital of Dalmatia. 
Cattaro, farther down, has a harbor 
which is the best fortified by nature of 
any in the world, and from here a most 
interesting and entirely comfortable trip 
may be made by stage twenty-eight miles 
across the mountains to Cettinje, the 
capital of Montenegro. The view of the 
Bay of Cattaro from the mountain 
heights is one never to be forgotten. 



138 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Denmark 

Denmark is a curious little country of 
a peninsula and many islands. The Vi- 
kings were sailors of necessity if they 
went visiting much, even among them- 
selves. The countryside is charming. 
Copenhagen is a large clean city with 
many interesting buildings. The genius 
of the sculptor Thorwaldsen is seen at its 
best in the Church of Our Lady and the 
Thorwaldsen Museum. 

France 

From Nantes in Brittany it is but a 
step to Angers and Tours, the best bases 
of operations from which to make little 
excursions into the surrounding chateau 
district, which includes much of the prov- 
inces of Anjou, Maine and Touraine. 
Here the tourist finds French domestic 
architecture and landscape gardening at 
their best, for in this region are the an- 
cestral homes of the nabobs of French 
nobility. Each imposing estate fairly 
reeks with romance. By virtue of its un- 
excelled highways and its beautiful, yet 
formal, scenery, this chateau district of 
France is a delight to the motorist. 

The Riviera 

The French Riviera along the Medi- 



What to See Abroad 139 

terranean and its Italian relative across 
the border, are set with a string of 
famous places that aspire to being winter 
resorts. Edged in front with deep bays 
and inlets of azure and well protected 
from the north winds by a chain of hills 
in the rear, the whole coast line is re- 
splendent in sub-tropical verdure. Not 
alone in winter time, but in summer as 
well, it is peopled with a hodge-podge of 
humanity from all over the world, always 
holiday bent — and expense not consid- 
ered. 

From Cannes to Ventimiglia in Italy 
the scenery is exquisite and striking in its 
variety. Charming little valleys lead 
hither and thither to unexpected nooks 
and picturesque glimpses among the 
hills, with here and there a view of the 
snow-capped Maritime Alps. It is a de- 
lightful region through which to motor, 
although the roads are not always as good 
as they might be. Cannes, Antibes and 
Manton are among the more important 
towns, while Nice, with its casino and 
sumptuous hotels, is the magnetic pole of 
the district socially, and Monte Carlo is 
the chief attraction. Here there are no 
types worth mentioning, except the ever 
interesting foreigner, be he German, 
Russian or American, on a vacation. 
Serious enterprise seems to be lacking 



140 Planning a Trip Abroad 

altogether; everything — even the climate 
and the scenery — is meant to promulgate 
frivolous enjoyment. 

The Rhone Valley 

The Rhone Valley is known sometimes 
as the Italy of France. It is full of 
romance, beautiful and ancient buildings 
and charming landscapes. It has many 
ancient Roman ruins and some of the 
most picturesquely situated towns in 
Europe. Le Puv is one of these. At 
Nimes there is one of the finest and best 
preserved Roman temples extant. There 
is also an amphitheater which though 
smaller than the Coliseum at Rome rivals 
it in beauty. These are two examples of 
many remains of the Caesars. The Rhone 
Valley is the land of the Troubadours and 
some of its ancient atmosphere still re- 
mains to-day. The costumes of the peas- 
ants are quaint and the people are inter- 
esting. There is enough variety in the 
landscape to make it far from monoton- 
ous. 

Germany 

Germany, more than anything, is a 
country of large, clean and beautiful 
cities. Still, it is not without its delight- 
fully curious corners. Throughout parts 
of the Harz Mountain district in the 



What to See Abroad 141 

north and within easy access of Berlin, 
and in the Black Forest in the south and 
best reached from Zurich or Heidelberg, 
the grandeur of the mountain scenery 
compares favorably with the best known 
tourist centers of Switzerland. 

The Black Forest 

This intensely interesting region of 
pine and fir forest, wooded mountain, and 
fertile, cultivated valley, can be entered 
by way of Heidelberg and Baden. It is 
almost entirely in the Grand Duchy of 
Baden, and beside its scenic charm has 
interest in the many picturesque and 
brilliant costumes of the inhabitants of 
the district. There is a walking club 
that gives most detailed information to 
the tourists, and the routes are well 
marked. The excellent German forestry 
laws have made the entire section easy 
for pedestrian travel. The roads are of 
the best, and automobile or carriage 
tours are delightful. The Hohenweg is 
a posted route for foot travelers, and 
starting from Pforzheim, a short distance 
from Heidelberg, includes the most desir- 
able districts of which the wild grandeur 
of the Hdllental and Titisel is worthy of 
remark. 
The Rhine 

The Rhine is possibly the most dis- 



142 Planning a Trip Abroad 

tinctive feature of the whole German Em- 
pire, in that it traverses the nation from 
its southernmost boundary to the north- 
ern border of Holland. From Basle to 
the German Ocean it is 525 miles long. 
It varies from a little over half a mile at 
the Holland boundary to one-eighth of a 
mile at the Rhemgon district. The most 
famous territory is from Cologne to 
Mayence. 

In this section are the most traveled 
excursion districts and the most noted 
castles. Cologne is the traffic center and 
steamers ply up and down, taking twelve 
and a half hours from Cologne to 
Mayence, and seven and three-quarters 
hours on the return trip. It is prefer- 
able to go up stream, as there is more 
favorable opportunity to view the scen- 
ery, and the fare is one-sixth less. Tickets 
may be bought allowing great stop-over 
privileges, and the opportunity to travel, 
either by boat or train, from place to 
place, as one wishes. 

The whole district is of volcanic origin, 
and this cause gives rise to the peculiar 
cliffs, valleys, and crater lakes. At Co- 
logne, the usual starting point of trips, 
one may visit the Cathedral which has 
the reputation of being the most magnifi- 
cent example of Gothic architecture in 
the world. Going south along the river 



What to See Abroad 143 

a pleasant excursion may be made by 
stopping at Bonn, an interesting univer- 
sity town. From here as a base, the 
justly famous Seven Mountain district 
on the opposite bank may be walked over. 
Wooded hills are particularly beautiful, 
and the paths with their roadside shrines 
give the impression of being remote from 
modern civilization. The old Heisterbach 
Abbey ruin is traversed and the ascent of 
Petersberg and the Drachenfels easily 
accomplished, affording wonderful views 
of the river and surrounding country. 

The ascent of the stream from here 
gives the traveler a most impressive idea 
of medieval history. Ruined castles of 
robber barons sit high on almost every 
cliff, and thickly wooded slopes alternate 
with vine-clad hills. Behind Andernach 
is the beautiful volcanic Laacher See and 
the Abbey near by. At Coblenz is the 
imposing fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, 
while farther up at St. Goarhausen is the 
Lorelei rock. At Rudersheim to Johan- 
nisberg the river narrows and is most 
picturesque, affording a constantly diver- 
sified panorama. 

Mayence, 115 miles from Cologne, is a 
short distance above. This town has had 
a continuous existence from the first cen- 
tury B. C, and contains some of the 
most noted Roman relics in Europe. 



144 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Near by is the health resort of Wies- 
baden, from where excursions may be 
made to the forest district of the Taunus 
mountains. 

The Moselle branches off southeast 
from the Rhine at Coblenz, and is of al- 
most equal scenic value with the ad- 
vantage of being less traveled. A most 
pleasant tour may be made of this district 
by boat, taking two days and breaking the 
journey over night at Trarbach. At 
Kreuznach outside of Coblenz is the great 
crag, Rheingrafenstein, rising perpendic- 
ularly from the stream and the outlaw's 
castle at Ebenburg. Treves or Triev is 
at the border into Luxembourg. Here 
there is an interesting Roman amphithea- 
ter and bath in excellent preservation. 
From Mayence, the Rhine turns almost 
due south to Basle and borders the west- 
ern end of the Black Forest. 

From Basle the river turns at right 
angles and runs on to the Lake of Con- 
stance. From Schaffhausen, a sleepy lit- 
tle town of medieval aspect, the Rhine 
falls may be visited, though their reputa- 
tion will suffer with the man who has 
seen Niagara. The river trip from 
Schaffhausen to Constance is a delightful 
one, entirely different from the other 
districts in its low banks. At the lake the 
river widens out in great bays. The lake 



What to See Abroad 145 

itself is over forty miles, and borders on 
five States. The town of Constance is 
the execution place of Huss and contains 
many interesting relics of the Middle 
Ages. 

The long line of railroad from Berlin, 
south and east, via Leipzic to Frankfort, 
separates the two Central Germany forest 
districts. A little north of Eisenach is 
the way to the Harz mountain district, a 
section of great scenic grandeur where 
are wild rock cliffs, thick, black forest 
and the most picturesque peasant towns. 
The medieval village of Goslar breathes 
the charm of this romantic territory ; it 
was once the seat of the Holy Roman Em- 
perors. The Brocken with its wild crags, 
has appeared in "Faust" and is the scene 
of many tales of magic and superstition. 
The Valley of Ochre, Harzberg and 
Ilsenberg are among the finest touring 
sections in Europe. 

South from Eisenach, which was 
Luther's town, rise the green wooded 
mountains of Thuringia, with a little 
milder beauty than the Harz. The Wart- 
burg, where Luther was held, crowns a 
hill on the outskirts of the town. Both 
wooded sections are full of romance and 
each has its individual charm. 

Directly south from Berlin the way 
goes into Saxony. Dresden, the chief 



146 Planning a Trip Abroad 

city, has its greatest fame through art 
and music. On the outskirts beyond 
Pirna are the peculiar rock formations 
of Saxon Switzerland. 

Holland 

Holland is characterized by the curious 
customs and costumes of its small towns 
and out-of-the-way places, by its wealth 
of windmills, by its tree-lined brick roads, 
and by the general aspect of its below- 
sea-level topography. Only by its dykes 
and its incessant pumping does it keep 
itself intact. Girdled with these life-pre- 
serving dykes and treading water with its 
windmills it manages not only to keep its 
head above water but with each year it 
tries to cheat the ocean by reclaiming a 
small part of its body. It has a type of 
scenery, therefore, all its own. Because 
the country is so inconceivably small the 
traveler can see all of it that is particu- 
larly interesting in from three to five 
days — a week at the most. In no other 
section of Europe are the distances be- 
tween towns so short ; in no other section 
are the modes and conveniences of reach- 
ing these towns so varied. If the traveler 
relies solely upon the railway trains to 
carry him from one place to another he 
may be compelled to wait a couple of 
hours in order to ride a few minutes. A 



What to See Abroad 147 

happy convenience of steam tram lines 
and electric services and railways and 
canal packets enables him to get about 
without loss of time and to penetrate the 
more remote parts of the country which 
one or the other of the different methods 
of transportation may overlook. 

Only that part of Holland to the west 
of the Zuyder Zee is looked upon as the 
tourist district. Here may be found all 
the important places of interest, includ- 
ing The Hague and Scheveningen, Delft, 
Amsterdam, Haarlem, Rotterdam, Dor- 
trecht and Utrecht. Volendam and the 
Island of Marken, just near Amsterdam, 
are the show places for types, while The 
Hague is Holland's most beautiful and 
most expensive city and contains the most 
notable works of Dutch art. But many 
travelers overlook what is probably the 
most typical section of Holland with 
respect to both costumes and scenery — 
the Island of Walcheren. Flushing, its 
gateway, is but two or three miles from 
Middleburg, the principal town of the 
district and containing some historic 
buildings. The Walcheren costume is 
particularly striking and a day's drive 
around the island will enable the traveler 
to obtain some comprehensive glimpses 
of Dutch rural life. The giant dyke at 
Westkapelle, next to the one at The 



148 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Helder that fortifies North Holland 
against the sea's encroachment, is the 
most important in the country and well 
worth inspection. 

Italy 

Generally speaking, Italy is a rather 
slovenly country. Its public buildings 
are constantly in a state of disrepair and 
the scenery along some of its railway 
lines resembles what might be expected in 
the vicinity of a municipal ash heap. 
Beggars are importunate, and since rail- 
way communication has put a stop to the 
operations of the brigands in Sicily, it is 
quite within the bounds of supposition 
that they crossed the Straits to Italy 
and commenced forthwith the more lucra- 
tive and scarcely less legitimate occupa- 
tion of begging. 

The Lake District 

The Italian Lakes which are gener- 
ally agreed upon as being the most beau- 
tiful in the world are found in the ex- 
treme northern part of the country, some 
of them indeed lying partly in Switzer- 
land and partly in Italy, and Lake 
Garda to the extreme east being partly in 
Austria as well as in Italy. All this 
stretch of country partakes of the char- 
acter of Switzerland in the west and of 



What to See Abroad 149 

the Tyrol in the east. The most impor- 
tant of these lakes are Lake Maggiore, 
Lake Lugano, Lake Como, and Lake 
Garcia, the last being perhaps the most 
beautiful of the lot. In addition to these 
are many smaller and less known lakes 
which possess, however, exquisite beauty. 
Lake Maggiore is the largest (unless it 
be Garda) and has some wide reaches of 
beautiful, island set water. Pallanza, 
which is one of the favorite resorts on the 
shores, is an exquisite town. Lugano 
and Como are more river-like bodies of 
water, Como being by far the wilder of 
the two, the snow-capped mountains com- 
ing close to the shore at all points. The 
shores of all these lakes are studded with 
picturesque villages and private villas, 
and the color of the water, the atmos- 
phere, and the shores combine in long to 
be remembered pictures. It is never too 
hot here for comfort and the summer can 
be passed around the lakes with entire 
satisfaction. 

Lake Garda is not only beautiful be- 
cause of the surroundings, but because of 
the astonishing color of the water itself, 
which is not unlike that of the Morning 
Glory Pool in the Yellowstone. 

These lakes can be reached in three or 
four hours' ride from Lucerne or Geneva 
in Switzerland, or in about the same 



150 Planning a Trip Abroad 

length of time from Milan, which in turn 
is only a few hours' distance from Genoa. 
If anyone intended to do simply the lakes 
and the hill country, Genoa would be the 
proper place to land. Garda lies between 
Milan and Venice, although as seen from 
its southern extremity, at the point where 
the railroad between these two cities 
comes to its banks, it gives but a faint 
idea of its real beauties which develop 
farther to the north. 

The Hill Towns 

Florence may be called the gateway to 
the hill country, which stretches across 
the north-central part of Italy from the 
Mediterranean to the Adriatic. Crown- 
ing the hills of this region are numberless 
cities and villages preserving unspoiled 
the extraordinary charm with which the 
builders of the Middle Ages invested 
them; of the Middle Ages and still far- 
ther in the past, for here was the oldest 
civilization in Italy, that of the Etrus- 
cans. Volterra, for instance, was old be- 
fore Rome was born, and Perugia was a 
power while Rome was yet a village. The 
landscape is the most beautiful in the 
country, outside of the coasts, and the 
ancient cities are more picturesque than 
can be found elsewhere in the Peninsula. 
The people are most kindly and courte- 



What to See Abroad 151 

ous, and the elevation prevents the tem- 
perature rising in summer beyond that 
which we are accustomed to here in the 
United States. 

Perugia is absolutely startling in its 
unique beauty as it crouches like a lion 
upon its great hills. In view from its 
walls is Assisi, the home of St. Francis, 
with a church that contains some of 
the most wonderful coloring in the world, 
and streets that are perfect pictures of 
medieval times. Sienna has been termed 
by somebody "a city of the soul" and has 
a strangeness and a charm all its own. It 
would be impossible to catalog all these 
cities of the hills, for there are twenty or 
thirty of them that are all well worth vis- 
iting. No one can possibly be said to 
know Italy who does not know at least 
some of these wonderful old towns. 

Normandy 

Normandy, to the north of Brittany, 
contains no grand and imposing scenery 
and but few types; but its castles, ca- 
thedrals and abbeys are the finest in 
France. It seems to be the birthplace of 
ecclesiastical architecture, and in no sec- 
tion of Europe may the history of this 
architecture be studied to better advan- 
tage. Hotels are generally good and 
living is comparatively cheap. Ten francs 



152 Planning a Trip Abroad 

a day, added to the expense of purchas- 
ing a sectional railway ticket, will allow 
any tourist not afflicted with the habit of 
stopping at the most expensive hotels to 
make a profitable sojourn in Normandy. 
Rouen, the principal city and architec- 
tural capital of the province, and Evreux, 
Lisieux and Caen offer the best examples 
of Gothic edifices. 

Norway 

Norway is over a thousand miles long 
from the North Cape to the southern 
tip. Its rugged mountains, and its coast 
line made picturesquely irregular by the 
long narrow bays hemmed in on either side 
by towering cliffs, give the country a 
scenic distinction possessed by no other 
land. The Norwegian roads are among 
the finest in the world and the tourist will 
do much of his traveling by carriage from 
which the magnificence of the scenery may 
be duly appreciated. Another striking 
feature of Norway is the great number of 
beautiful water-falls. 

In the North is the country of the 
Lapps, who with their reindeer beasts of 
burden are picturesque but personally un- 
attractive. 

Christiana, the capital, is not espe- 
cially interesting from an architectural 
standpoint, but as the seat of government 



What to See Abroad 153 

and the usual landing place it cannot well 
be omitted. 

Portugal 

In contrast to Spain, the fertility of 
Portugal's soil is remarkable, and in vege- 
tation it is probably the richest land in 
Europe. Grain, vegetables and fruits are 
easily cultivated, and the fisheries along 
the coast are scarcely surpassed in pro- 
ductiveness by the land. 

No country in the world presents more 
variety in scenery than Portugal. Along 
the Tagus are marshes that remind one of 
parts of Holland ; in the northern sec- 
tion are mountains that are almost Al- 
pine in character, while the region of the 
Douro, with its vineyard terraces rising 
one above another, suggests the country 
of the Rhine. 

The best way to reach Portugal is by 
boat from Southampton to Lisbon, a mat- 
ter of three days' run. The Booth Line 
issues excursion tickets at a very low rate, 
and includes railroad fares and hotel cou- 
pons for an entire tour of the country. 
Its boats are smaller than those of the 
Royal Mail, which are as good as any- 
thing on the Atlantic, but are said to be 
very comfortable. On leaving Portugal 
the American traveler could go very com- 
fortably to Madrid, a sleeping car being 



154 Planning a Trip Abroad 

run between Lisbon and Madrid three 
times a week, and then after seeing the 
cities of northern Spain work south and 
go home by the way of Gibraltar. This 
is altogether preferable to attempting to 
go into Portugal from Spain, and then 
back again, as the railroad service be- 
tween southern Spain and any town in 
Portugal is so poor as to be practically 
prohibitory. The railway service in Por- 
tugal is excellent, by far ahead of Spain, 
and the country is full of curious and in- 
teresting places. Besides Cintra and 
Bussaco, whose natural beauty is unsur- 
passed, there is a most extraordinary 
shrine at Braga which is very well worth 
a visit. Thomar has a wonderful old 
castle-church above the town, where 
amid the crumbling walls there reposes in 
a glass casket the body of the Grand In- 
quisitor of Portugal, dead now these many 
centuries. You come upon this ghastly 
sight as you climb the lonely stairs, and 
believe me it is enough to give one nerv- 
ous prostration, and why the boys 
haven't thrown stones at him through the 
glass during all the years that he has lain 
there in his solitary decay, is one of the 
mysteries of the country. At Coimbra 
there is a great university and a pic- 
turesque ruin, and a castle at Leria is also 
very beautiful. On the drive between 



What to See Abroad 155 

these two towns there is an ancient abbey 
in the florid Portuguese style which is a 
very extraordinary piece of architecture. 
South of Lisbon there is a number of in- 
teresting cities, Evora and others. 

Russia 

Traveling in Russia is uncomfortable 
and the country itself is foreboding. The 
distances between places are great and the 
rides are monotonous both on account of 
the dearth of enlivening scenery and the 
fact that Russian railroads are govern- 
mental monopolies. The customs exam- 
inations are encountered with surprising 
regularity all over the country. The most 
traveled section of Russia for the tourist 
is between St. Petersburg and Moscow. 
St. Petersburg is the great metropolis 
where the population is composed of a 
rather varied strata of society. It is a 
city of magnificent buildings and animated 
thoroughfares and it is the most unhealthy 
capital of Europe. 

Moscow with its great Kremlin and its 
seething population offers many sights 
to the tourist and has much in common 
with St. Petersburg. Hotel accommoda- 
tions will be found good. 

Sicily 

The ancient temples of Sicily, now that 



156 Planning a Trip Abroad 

brigandage has become an industry of the 
past, tempt the tourist continually, and 
the picturesque villages along the coast 
invite him to linger among them as long 
as his time allows. Types are more 
abundant than in Italy. Here are the 
ruins of the ancient city of Syracuse as 
well as many other Greek and Roman 
towns. 

Spain 

Spain, as a whole, is unfortunate In 
having her most interesting historic treas- 
ures hidden away in her most unattrac- 
tive and inaccessible towns. Except in 
the south, the country is barren and de- 
void of scenic beauty, but the cities and 
smaller towns hold much that is of espe- 
cial import to the tourist, particularly 
in the way of architecture influenced by 
Moorish design. Madrid of course should 
be visited by every tourist to Spain, for 
it is perhaps the center of the country's 
social life as well as being the capital. 
Here are the famous Prado, several fine 
collections of old paintings, libraries, mu- 
seums and the always interesting churches. 
Seville, while it may not justify the old 
Spanish saying to the effect that " he 
who has not seen Seville has not seen a 
marvelous place," nevertheless is one of 
the most famous cities of Spain, as well 



What to See Abroad 157 

for what it has been as for what it is to- 
day. Among the smaller cities Toledo 
deserves especial attention, for with its 
great rocky hill and its half deserted, 
grim appearance of romantic age, it is 
peculiarly impressive. It is here that the 
Toledo blades, famous for centuries for 
their quality and beauty, are made. The 
Spanish railway gauge differs from that 
of the French; the trains creep along as 
if ashamed of themselves, as they ought to 
be, and rarely exceed a speed of fifteen 
miles an hour. 

Sweden 

Sweden is noted for the number of lakes 
within its borders — they compose one- 
twelfth of its entire area. One can sail 
directly across the country in comfort- 
able boats by a canal which connects the 
Cattegat and the Baltic, and the experi- 
ence is worth having. 

Stockholm, the capital city, is active 
and bustling, and the people are pleasure- 
loving and courteous. There are many 
beautiful buildings and statues of illus- 
trious Swedes. 

Switzerland 

Many Americans, asserting that they 
have viewed the most magnificent moun- 
tain scenery in the world in their own 



158 Planning a Trip Abroad 

country such as the Adirondacks, the 
Rockies, the Alleghenies, express little in- 
terest in anticipation of a visit to Swit- 
zerland. These good people should know 
that the scenery of Switzerland and that 
of the Canadian Rockies for example, 
while both remarkable in their grandeur 
and equally inspiring, are entirely dif- 
ferent. Switzerland is unlike anything 
but itself. Its scenery combines in a re- 
markable way the wild and the cultivated. 
The contrasts presented in the wonder- 
ful turquoise-colored lakes, neat closely 
cropped meadows of the valleys, resem- 
bling patchwork quilts, with picturesque 
nestling villages or isolated chalets im- 
maculate in their tidiness, stupendous 
crags of towering mountains with their 
background of snow-capped peaks, make 
a picturesqueness that is individually its 
own. 

Switzerland is the playground of Eu- 
rope. Its art and architecture are of no 
consequence, but in scenery it is pre-emi- 
nent. Its hotels are the best and most 
reasonable on the Continent, and it makes 
a specialty of catering to the tourist. In 
no other country may a vacation be more 
profitably spent. It is a paradise for 
the pedestrian, and the various mountain 
trips may best be taken on foot. The 
distinctive type of Swiss house, or chalet, 



What to See Abroad 159 

adds much to the general composition of 
almost every view. There are beautiful 
lakes, towering peaks, glaciers, forests of 
pine, and the highways and foot paths 
are kept in the best condition. As in 
Holland, there is in Switzerland a num- 
ber of different methods of transporta- 
tion. Steam railways, of course, inter- 
sect the country ; on every lake plies a 
line of good steamers ; finiculaire rail- 
ways climb the highest peaks ; and there 
are numerous electric lines. 

The Tyrol 

The Tyrol is the eastern arm of Aus- 
tria that is hedged in by Bavaria, Swit- 
zerland, and Italy. One of its great at- 
tractions is this combination of the char- 
acteristics of three countries. Innsbruck 
is the chief city, and one of the most strik- 
ing in Europe with its richly carved 
houses, arcades, and the beautiful snow- 
capped mountain rising, as it seems, al- 
most out of the public square. The up- 
per Inn valley is famous for the beauti- 
ful valleys, little toy-like villages, and the 
wonderful slopes at the foot of the snow 
mountains. Jenback and Ziller Tal com- 
mand the tourist's attention. Farther 
south lies picturesque Bozen, the traveling 
center for the Southern Tyrol. About 
this town and Meran are famous castles, 



160 Planning a Trip Abroad 

some almost as they were in the Middle 
Ages. The views of the Dolomites from 
here are magnificent. Farther east lie 
the strange, gigantic bare rocks of the 
Dolomites with their twisted fantastic 
forms. When seen at sunset or sunrise 
they are marvelous. 

South the Tyrol borders Lake Garda. 
Riva and Trient are very Italian in char- 
acter, but are still Tyrolese. Beside the 
scenic beauties which rival Switzerland's, 
there is the interest of the people with 
their variant costumes and the pursuits 
and occupations of an earlier day still 
unspoiled by the tourist. 



V 

SHOPPING ABROAD 

SHOPPING abroad offers a problem to 
the traveler that is rarely, if ever, 
found on this side of the water ; shoppers 
are expected to buy and not merely to 
"shop," as is the custom in America. 
The shops are for the purpose of selling 
goods to people who know what they want 
before they start from home, and not for 
the purpose of displaying attractive things 
which the shopper doesn't dream of buy- 
ing until he sees them. Especially is this 
true in England. 

Of late years, however, certain well 
known shops in London which enjoy the 
largest American patronage have con- 
descended to allow a general inspection of 
what they hope to tempt the tourist with ; 
but in most British stores the shopper is 
expected to make a purchase, whether the 
article found there suits him or not. If 
he does not buy he is treated coldly and 
even rudely by the shopkeeper and clerks. 
The secret of the system is this : the clerk 
is required to "make a sale," and a cer- 
tain number of failures will lose her her 
position. Even the British themselves be- 
161 



162 Planning a Trip Abroad 

moan the practice, but for many years 
it has been the custom in a country where 
Twentieth Century conditions and modern 
methods make the least impression upon 
time-honored traditions, and the shopper 
is powerless. 

A number of years ago an enterprising 
business man from Chicago — Selfridge, by 
name — having been long associated with 
one of the greatest department stores in 
this country, conceived the idea of build- 
ing a "department store" in London and 
operating it in the American manner. 
The Englishman (who has not remained 
silent on the subject of the invasion of 
his country by American business meth- 
ods) smiled in his sleeve at the huge piece 
of contemplated folly. Yet he was in- 
terested to a -certain extent, and when the 
store opened formally he came with his 
wife and daughters to look the thing over. 
Much of it he could not comprehend; the 
idea of buying groceries and drygoods 
under the same roof; the courteous treat- 
ment he received from the employes (of 
English birth, mostly, but thoroughly 
coached in the American system). He 
failed to understand the "lifts," and when 
one, loaded to the gunwale, was going 
down, he didn't understand why it re- 
fused to stop at the fifth or the third floor 
and carry him up to the seventh. And 



Shopping Abroad 163 

the idea of having a restaurant on the top 
floor ! Preposterous ! And a tea room 
on the roof! Extr'ord'n'ry ! Silly, per- 
fectly silly, and bally tommy rot ! 

And so he went back home with his wife 
and daughters, having found a good ex- 
cuse to indulge in his favorite indoor 
sport of writing letters to the newspapers. 

For the first couple of years, the Eng- 
lishman, although dissatisfied with his 
own system, resented the American idea 
and refused to patronize Selfridge's. 
The store lost money. But in the sum- 
mer the Americans flocked to the place. 
It began to make the other shops "sit up 
and take notice." After a while the Eng- 
lishman began to think there must be 
some little advantage in it after all. To- 
day you will find as many English "shop- 
pers" in Selfridge's as there are Ameri- 
cans. They go in with a sneer and come 
out with a snigger. They are "getting 
the habit." By the grace of Selfridge 
you can now go into Liberty's and simply 
look around without being insulted; also 
in Mapin and Webb's and Jay's and Swan 
and Edgar's and Harrod's and half a 
dozen other stores, where, a few years 
ago, you felt like a culprit if you failed 
to buy something. 

To walk through Bond Street from Ox- 
ford to Piccadilly is a treat for any in- 



164 Planning a Trip Abroad 

veterate shopper. The street is so nar- 
row that you can easily vibrate back and 
forth. It is the most celebrated as well 
as the most fashionable shopping street 
in London. There is every kind of shop 
and there is every thing for sale from a 
six-inch roasting ear at a penny an inch 
to a diamond necklace worth — well, any- 
one can tell you what a diamond necklace 
is worth; but miniature roasting ears at 
twelve cents each held my attention longer 
than the diamond necklace. 

In the fall, after the Americans have 
sailed for home, prices of many things in 
London drop considerably. Gloves come 
down a shilling or more, for example, and 
prices of other articles which the Ameri- 
can dare not come home without are re- 
duced more or less. 

The so-called "Cooperative Stores" of 
London carry on an immense trade with 
those Englishmen who are not averse to 
paying cash on the spot, and the American 
patronage of them is increasing yearly. 
Of these there are about thirty, the prin- 
cipal companies being the Army and Navy 
Cooperative Society, the Junior Army and 
Navy Stores, the Civil Service Cooperative 
Society, and the Civil Service Supply As- 
sociation. To members of the different 
societies or to the strangers vouched for 
by a member these stores sell first-class 



Shopping Abroad 165 

goods at the very moderate prices which 
the economy of management and the satis- 
faction with small profits enable them to 
charge. 

WHERE TO BUY 

Amber 

Naples and Rome. The Italians 
make good use of their sea products, and 
they know how to get for them their com- 
mercial worth. Although native Italians 
still cling to a superstitious belief in the 
healing quality of this particular marine 
plant, they are not averse to selling their 
surplus supply to visiting foreigners. 

Artificial Flowers 

Paris. The making of these counter-, 
feits of nature has been perfected in Paris, 
and nowhere else can such beautiful, nat- 
ural imitations be found: nor such lovely 
adaptations of the real flowers, in gold, in 
silver, in fur, in whatever material hap- 
pens to be the fantasy of the moment. 

Cameos 

Venice and other Italian cities. Italy 
is helped in the present day manufacture 
of these quaint cut ornaments by the won- 
derful antique examples in her museums. 
The art sense is by no means dead in 
Italy, and her workmen have still an un- 
erring instinct for the good in design. 



166 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Moreover they are skilful enough to re- 
produce the ancient models faithfully. 

China Ware and Pottery 

In the cities famous for their special 
brands ; English makes in London, Delft 
and other Dutch wares in Holland, Dres- 
den ware in Germany. Nearly every 
one of the European countries has been at 
one time noted for its particular make of 
porcelain or pottery. Most of these na- 
tional industries have been either revived 
or continued, and while authentic old 
specimens may be both rare and costly, 
good modern replicas are everywhere to 
be had, so that the traveler who has a 
fondness for any special sort can find it. 

There are also interesting potteries of 
more recent introduction sold in special 
districts. Devonshire in England has its 
native ware distinguished by a good Mor- 
ris green. The peasant pottery of Brit- 
tany is justly celebrated for its decora- 
tive naivete. Paris itself has an up-to- 
date and very artistic gres invented by 
the modern craftsmen and used for all 
sorts of house ornaments such as electric 
light stands, flower pots, even the more 
delicate toilet table necessities. 

Cigars 

Holland and Belgium. Both countries 
having tobacco growing dependencies can 



Shopping Abroad 167 

produce for their home markets brands of 
cigars which the tourist smoker will be 
overjoyed to find, after the absurd pencil 
"stogies" of Italy and the unbelievably 
poor tobacco of France. 

Cigarettes 

Servia, Bulgaria, Russia and the Bal- 
kan States, also Egypt. Eastern Europe 
and the "Near East" seem to have a 
special gift for cigarette making. There 
are plenty of cigarette makers in Con- 
stantinople and in Cairo who will furnish 
the tourist with a personal cigarette, 
marked with his monogram in gilt. 

Clothes 

Women's, Paris. Men's, London. Both 
cities have for so long held suprem- 
acy in their respective fields that their 
special offerings are common tourist 
knowledge. In general, women's gowns, 
both for street and indoor wear, are best 
bought in Paris. All the Paris depart- 
ment stores keep excellent ready-made 
models, and the Parisian dressmakers who 
will create a costume on short notice are 
legion. Their establishments are to be 
found over the whole city, the most ex- 
pensive and the most original being those 
of the Place Vendome quarter, the cheaper 
houses scattered through the less central 



168 Planning a Trip Abroad 

districts. All of them do their work for 
less relatively than would dressmakers of 
their class in America. 

Dress goods and millinery and ladies' 
tailors and dressmakers and everything 
that appeals in one way or another to Mi- 
lady Fashionable seem to be indigenous to 
France. Paris is the Capital of Style in 
women's clothes and from there are flashed 
around the world the ikons and edicts that 
women must wear certain things certain 
ways this spring or next fall if they would 
even be glanced at by their neighbors. It 
is scarcely necessary to say that women's 
wearing apparel is cheap or expensive in 
Paris, according to where it is bought or 
who makes it. The workmanship and 
style vary but little among the reliable 
dressmakers. 

Clothes, gloves, leather goods, cutlery, 
china, silver and silks may all be bought 
in London at the lowest prices. Oxford 
Street, Regent Street, Bond Street and 
Piccadilly are the fashionable shopping 
centers. Over there they call a dry- 
goods store a "drapery" and will posi- 
tively refuse to understand you if you 
give it the American nomenclature. Of 
these Harrod's, 87 Brompton Road ; 
Jay's, £43 Regent Street; Swan and Ed- 
gar's, Piccadilly Circus ; Peter Robin- 
son's, 216 Oxford Street and 256 Regent 



Shopping Abroad 169 

Street; Liberty's, on Regent Street 
(especially for Oriental fabrics, silks and 
velvets) ; and Selfridge's, on Oxford 
Street, are perhaps the best known. 

Unless you go to some of the fashion- 
able tailors on Piccadilly or Bond Street 
you will not have to pay more than $20 
for a suit of clothes, made to order of the 
best cloth. But English tailors as a rule 
can only make an English suit — narrow- 
shouldered, tight-trousered and anything 
but stylish, as we in America are accus- 
tomed to wear them. But, of course, this 
is English style and every man to his 
taste. Most tailors will give you either 
an American or an English cut, according 
to your wish, for the same price. Among 
the medium priced tailors you will pay 
from $10 to $25 for a suit of clothes, 
made to order, of course. A dress suit 
and Tuxedo coat made of the best ma- 
terial — which would cost no less than 
$150 in America — will cost $45. 

Coral 

Naples and the small Italian coast 
towns. Coral, like amber, is a staple ar- 
ticle of sale in Italy, and Italian work- 
men have arrived at treating this pretty 
sea product to an astonishing degree of 
decoration. It is made into every con- 
ceivable ornament and sold for every pos- 



170 Planning a Trip Abroad 

sible price, depending somewhat on the 
tourist's knowledge of Italian trade meth- 
ods. In Italy one may still bargain for 
an article considered by the buyer too 
high, and the price may thus be brought 
down to as little as half the original fig- 
ure. At any rate it does no harm to as- 
sume a lukewarm interest in whatever is 
offered, for that attitude will often have 
quite as good an effect in lowering prices 
as any amount of haggling. 

In purchasing the shopper must be very 
wary. Spurious articles are forced upon 
the customer every way he turns. Usu- 
ally the original price is doubled by the 
salesman upon the first asking, and, ex- 
cept in the most reputable shops, you will 
be paying more than the article is worth 
if you succeed in cutting his price in half. 
All corals of the first water, whether beads 
or in setting, which are sold in Italy, come 
from Japan. But the cheaper and in- 
ferior corals found in Italian waters can 
be "doctored" and made to look suspic- 
iously like Japanese corals. It is wise 
to seek the advice of someone familiar with 
the different species before purchasing, 
else milady will wonder, when the weather 
becomes warm, where the pink paint on 
the collar of her shirtwaist came from. 
It is not wise in Italy to buy anything in 
the presence of a guide nor upon the rec- 



Shopping Abroad 171 

ommendation of the hotel concierge. 
There is an old proverb about "honesty 
among thieves," and these fellows never 
fail to receive their commissions, on your 
purchases from the dealer, all of which 
comes out of your pocket. 

Cutlery 

London and German cities. 
Diamonds 

Amsterdam and Milan. 

Dress Goods 

London, Paris and Switzerland. Wool- 
en stuffs can nowhere be bought to such 
good advantage as in England. Suitings 
of all sorts, but especially the English 
and Scotch mixtures and the Irish home- 
spuns, are of wonderful wearing qualities 
and good appearance. Their prices are 
not high. Lighter weight materials, like 
silk, lawns and prints, are best in France 
and Switzerland, since both countries 
manufacture them. There are some print 
mills also in the disputed Alsace terri- 
tory, famed for the fresh and dainty col- 
ors and the pretty designs of their cotton 
prints. These plants all feed the markets 
of the near by large cities, where a wide 
assortment of lovely materials can always 
be found. 



172 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Embroideries 

Germany, Switzerland, Belgium and 
France. All hand work is amazingly 
cheap on the Continent, and the tourist 
is continually agreeably surprised at the 
small charge made for embroidery and 
lace. Much of the work in the countries 
where these trimmings are to be had is 
done by the peasants in their leisure time, 
and since it is looked upon by them 
largely as a pastime, they are satisfied 
with small profits. 

In Germany may be found the most 
exquisite embroideries, done during the 
winter months by the women of the coun- 
try districts. After working in the fields 
all summer it would seem the natural 
thing for a German woman to do to put- 
ter about the kitchen in winter and attend 
to the thousand and one household duties 
that must needs suffer more or less while 
she lends a hand in reaping the harvest. 
So she does, too, I have no doubt, but she 
also finds time to do a little fancy work. 
The women folk of whole districts work 
together all winter to supply this or that 
Berlin or Dresden or Munich merchant 
with beautiful needlework. Once I saw in 
Berlin the most wonderful tablecloth, al- 
most wholly covered with exquisite em- 
broidery in white. A price tag of 400 



Shopping Abroad 173 

marks was attached. I am ashamed to 
mention what the same thing would have 
cost in this country. The German women 
are also noted for a very effective 
style of linen drawn work, not flimsy and 
unserviceable like the Mexican work, al- 
though less delicate in design. 

Engravings and Reproductions 

Berlin, Dresden and Munich. Ger- 
many is the home par excellence of modern 
color printing, though for work of the 
very first rank, for elaborate editions de 
luxe, France is a close second. Most of 
the truly artistic picture post cards sold 
everywhere on the Continent are printed 
in Germany. So too are the admirable 
color reproductions of the celebrated 
paintings in the picture galleries. The 
dexterous Germans have invented a color 
reproduction which they print on canvas, 
and which comes very near to being a 
facsimile of the original. 

Filigree Work in Gold and Silver 

Genoa, Florence and other North Ital- 
ian cities. In this work, as in the making 
of cameos, the Italian jewelers have had 
many wonderful models to copy, only 
these models are even older, for many of 
them are of Etruscan origin. The deli- 
cate scrolls, with their little accents of 



174 Planning a Trip Abroad 

polished knobs, are essentially Etruscan 
in spirit, and may even be of Greek in- 
spiration. This particular work is very 
lovely in gold, but much of it is also ef- 
fectively reproduced in oxidized silver in 
combination with stones of good contrast- 
ing colors, like lapis lazuli, agate tur- 
quoise, and coral. 

Furs 

Berlin, Paris, and Russian and Scandi- 
navian cities. The countries of Northern 
Europe, being nearer the base of sup- 
plies, offer the best buying centers for 
furs. Fur garments, however, are not so 
modishly made, naturally, there as in 
Paris, and the tourist who contemplates 
investing in furs may find it an ad- 
vantage to buy the pelts in Russia, for 
instance, and take them to Paris to have 
made up. Parisian ingenuity can do 
wonders with fur, and it is there com- 
bined with unfailing skill with every 
known other material from lace, beading, 
and chiffon, to velvet and broadcloth. 

Gloves 

London, Paris, Brussels and the large 
Italian cities. The styles of gloves vary 
very much in different countries. For 
gloves intended for street wear no one can 
do better than to buy in London. The 



Shopping Abroad 175 

turned seams are smart and the general 
cut in keeping with the severity of an out- 
door costume. Dress gloves can be 
bought better in Paris and in Brussels 
than in London. Long gloves, more par- 
ticularly the soft suedes, are cheap ac- 
cording to American standards in both 
places. The glace gloves are of pliable 
kid and pleasant to wear. The French 
make an uncommonly durable silk glove 
which is a good investment, and all French 
people, both men and women, wear the 
sturdy lisle gloves of French manufac- 
ture. The tourist who is not above sav- 
ing the wear of his or her kid stock may 
safely take to the lisle variety while trav- 
eling. The gloves of Italy have the repu- 
tation of wearing badly, but as they are 
sold for nearly nothing this defect can 
be overlooked. Short gloves can be had in 
Florence and Rome for as little as twenty 
cents the pair. 

Hats 

Women's, Paris. Men's, London. The 
same advice holds good in respect to the 
headgear of men and women as to their 
other wearing apparel. American men's 
hats are not unknown abroad, and if a 
man has a preference for a special make, 
he can most likely find it, either in Ger- 
many or in Italy. England certainly 



176 Planning a Trip Abroad 

sets the fashion in tourist hats, men's. 
France makes no such distinction in 
women's hats, for no French woman would 
wear the plain unadorned walking tur- 
ban liked by both English and American 
women more accustomed to the require- 
ments of traveling. French hats can be 
depended upon to be "dressy," but they 
are also most adroitly and artistically de- 
signed. Liberty's, in both their London 
and Paris shops, sell very good, very 
cheap, woven straw and grass outing hats 
which when trimmed with a scarf of inter- 
esting colors, make admirable additions to 
a traveling wardrobe. In some of the 
Italian cities pretty braided straws are 
sold, and a hat of closer weave not unlike 
the Panamas, but much more reasonable 
in price. 

Inlaid Work 

The Turkish bazaars are the most in- 
teresting shopping districts throughout 
the Balkan States. Useful and ornamen- 
tal brass and copper articles, inlaid with 
gold or silver, sell at very reasonable 
prices ; and the student of Oriental rugs 
may pick up a creditable Anatolian now 
and then for comparatively nothing — but 
it takes a student to tell the difference be- 
tween a good piece and poor one. 

And speaking of rugs, I know a fellow 



Shopping Abroad 177 

who has one for sale for a dollar and a 
half. He is a swarthy Arab who stands 
on the pier at Algiers where the steam 
tender lands the shiploads of passengers 
going ashore for the day. It looks from 
a distance, this rug, as if it might be 
worth fifteen or twenty dollars, maybe. 
But the reason I think the Arab still has 
it is because he offers it to all comers for 
eighteen pounds — in round numbers, $90. 
He will be on the pier still when you come 
to take the tender to board the ship in the 
evening, but he will have cut his price in 
half. While the tender loosens her moor- 
ings he will cut his price in half again, 
and by the time the boat is ready to leave 
the dock he will make a terrible sacrifice 
and say that he will part with the rug for 
exactly six shillings. 

Ivories 

Brussels. Belgium has a permanent 
ivory producing field to draw from in her 
Congo possessions: consequently her 
shops show a large assortment of ivory 
objects. They are sometimes as skilfully 
carved as if they were Japanese. Many 
small ivory souvenirs at attractive prices 
are everywhere seen, some of them simply 
ornaments, some of them having a pos- 
sible use, like the tiny sets of ivory domi- 
noes. 



178 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Jewelry 

Paris, Milan, Geneva, Lucerne and 
southern German cities. In no other 
sort of decoration has the modern art 
movement taken such a firm hold as in 
the making of jewelry. No other designs 
are employed nowadays by Continental 
jewelers, except reproductions of accepted 
old settings. The art nouveau seems pe- 
culiarly suited to ornaments, and, while 
the German, Swiss and French manners 
of developing it vary greatly, all these 
countries have come to ultilize it. The 
good jewelry of Paris is expensive but 
very choice. The best is made by genu- 
ine artists. The cheap Parisian jewelry 
is often very pretty and the enamels wear 
well enough to warrant their purchase. 
The Swiss and German modern designs 
are sometimes a bit extreme and occasion- 
ally meaningless, but on the whole both 
countries make interesting pins, chains, 
belt buckles and hair ornaments. The 
enamels are especially good. Italian 
jewelry is more affected by traditions than 
is that of the northern countries. Milan 
has a glittering array of jewelry shops 
in its fine arcade. 

Lace 

Brussels, Paris, Venice, Malta, Seville 



Shopping Abroad 179 

and Ireland. All of these countries have 
laces as distinctive as their languages, 
and the tourist who knows the makes will 
revel in the beautiful modern work. In 
some places the lace industry has con- 
tinued without interruption during the 
five or six centuries since lace was first in- 
troduced into Europe. In others it has 
been allowed to lapse and has then been 
revived, sometimes through the philan- 
thropic enterprise of a society interested 
in the arts of the land. In Ireland, in 
France and in Italy such societies, all 
under very aristocratic patronage, have 
been instrumental in recreating a lace in- 
dustry among the peasants, thus preserv- 
ing a distinctly national employment. 
Lace in Europe is not relatively ex- 
pensive, and occasionally very lovely and 
rare pieces can be picked up in second 
hand shops by any one who is a good 
judge of laces. 

The most fashionable and expensive 
shops in Brussels, carrying goods of a 
general character, are to be found in the 
Rue de la Madeline and the Rue Royal, 
while other good ones hold forth in 
the Boulevard Anspach, Rue Neuve and 
Rue des Fripiers. 
Leather Goods 

London. English people travel more 
than any other Europeans, which may 



180 Planning a Trip Abroad 

perhaps account for the fact that all the 
appurtenances of traveling are better 
made there than on the Continent. 
Trunks, hampers, traveling bags, the 
characteristic tea basket, hand-bags, 
rugs, hold-alls, even the smallest necessi- 
ties for the trunk or the bag — these are 
things to be purchased in London. Un- 
der no circumstances waste your money in 
the purchase of a "second-hand" trunk or 
hand-bag. Establishments selling these 
attractive looking articles are scattered 
over London. In almost every instance 
they are made of inferior leather and put 
together in a hap-hazard, perfunctory 
manner which permits them to stand up 
well only under the sign on the side- 
walk. 

The foreign retailer does not seem to 
have the same sense of honor that char- 
acterizes his brother in America. In 
London it is well to buy carefully if you 
are dealing at a small shop. In purchas- 
ing anything where the quality can be 
concealed such as in leather goods, go to 
one of the large stores or to a shop that 
has been recommended. The recent ex- 
perience of a friend of mine will illustrate 
this point. He was walking along the 
Strand one afternoon and chancing to 
see some attractive looking suit cases in a 
leather goods store, went in to inquire the 



Shopping Abroad 181 

prices. Some were more expensive than 
he wanted to pay and the salesman there- 
upon showed him a number at a much 
lower price, explaining that they were 
second-hand goods, although no sign of 
wear appeared on them, which accounted 
for so reasonable a price. They were 
cases he said that had been turned in 
by army officers who had returned from 
colonial service and were glad to get what 
they could for luggage that they would 
have no occasion to use again. My 
friend after bargaining, as is the usual 
custom, purchased for twenty-five shillings 
a splendid looking, seemingly new, dark 
pig skin case, hand sewn and guaranteed 
solid leather. The following week end it 
was used on a trip to the country with 
the result that the seams opened up, the 
thick "solid leather" frayed out and upon 
examination the suit case was found to 
be constructed of brown paper with a 
very thin veneer of leather. The dealer 
was insulting when it was brought back 
and he utterly refused to do more than 
exchange it for a much more expensive 
case. This particular concern happened 
to have stores at 55 Strand and 163 A 
Strand, but there are probably many 
more of the same type among the many 
shops, the most of which are unquestion- 
able honest. 



182 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Linens 

Germany and Ireland. Although these 
two countries offer a larger assortment of 
linens, this ancient and durable material 
may be had almost anywhere in Europe at 
small cost. The humblest households use 
linen sheets, and linen laces are abundant 
everywhere. Hand looms are still in use 
in obscure places, and the linens thus 
made are as lasting an investment as are 
diamonds. 

Mosaics 

Venice, Florence and Rome. All 
Italians excel in the making of mosaics. 
It is only a modern continuation of a very 
old Roman craft, but to-day it is applied 
to small objects for personal adornment 
as well as to larger pieces of furniture for 
household use. Many lovely brooches, 
belt buckles and hair ornaments may be 
bought everywhere in Italy, done in 
beautiful mosaic. Unfortunately they 
are seldom mounted in either gold or sil- 
ver, and in wearing the settings soon be- 
come tarnished. However, since the mo- 
saics themselves are so good, and often 
artistically done, they repay remounting, 

Motor Apparel 

London. Motoring being the newest 



Shopping Abroad 183 

outdoor sport — excepting the exciting 
and prohibitive aviation — England natur- 
ally provides for it as she does for all out- 
door pursuits. 

Pearls 

Rome and Florence. 

Pipes 

Meerschaum, Vienna and Buda Pesth. 
Briar, London. It is well to look for any 
article in the land where it is used most, 
and the favorite pipe of the native is apt 
to be the best. So, of course, the meer- 
schaum will be found as an inevitable ac- 
companiment in beer drinking lands. 
The Englishman's short briar pipe is an- 
other national institution. Of late years, 
through a spirit of imitation, young 
Frenchmen have taken to smoking pipes, 
and Paris therefore presents no mean as- 
sortment of them. 

Roman Antiquities in Jewelry, etc, 

Rome and Naples. Southern Italy, 
since its recently made explorations, has 
been quick to see the commercial value of 
antique reproductions. They are made 
with discrimination and skill, and are 
therefore not a bad souvenir investment. 

Silks 

London, Paris, Lyons and Milan. All 



184 Planning a Trip Abroad 

of these cities sell dependable silks and 
this is a material which can be had much 
more reasonably in Europe than in 
America. Certain places, like Lyons, are 
noted for nothing else. The silk industry 
of Lyons is now some 500 years old and 
yet that city still holds first place in the 
quality and range of its silk products. 

Silverware and Sheffield Plate 
London. 

Shoes 

For Americans, only the large cities. 
American shoes have gained a certain 
reputation abroad, and many Europeans 
wear them in preference to any others. 
For this reason agencies for well-known 
American makes can be found in most of 
the large cities. English shoes come 
nearer in form to those worn by Ameri- 
cans, but they are not so well finished. 
French shoes are quite impossible for an 
American foot. 

Tobacco for the Pipe 

London. An inveterate pipe smoker 
will be wise to provide himself while he is 
in London with a kind of tobacco he can 
smoke. It is more satisfactory to pay 
the duties levied on tobacco by the Conti- 
nental countries, and to be sure of real to- 



Shopping Abroad 185 

bacco, than to trust to the uncertain 
quality of that offered elsewhere. 

Toilet Articles 

Paris and throughout Germany. 
These are things which properly come 
under the elastic title of neuveaute de 
Paris, and which Paris makes to perfec- 
tion, putting into their conception and 
finish the fullness of French ingenuity and 
French taste. Germany follows the 
French designs. 

Tortoise Shell 

Naples and Rome. This is another 
sea product most adroitly treated in 
southern Italy. It is made up into every 
conceivable small article for human use, 
including lamp and candle shades. 

Turquoises 

Paris, Vienna, Rome and Florence. 
Practically all the turquoise sold in Eu- 
rope, either mounted or unmounted, comes 
from Persia. Certain cities are the fa- 
vorite clearing places of the small dealers 
who traffic in these pretty stones, and they 
are the places whose jewelers have a 
special fondness for the warm and sympa- 
thetic Eastern blue, and who know how 
most becomingly to cut and mount the 
stones, 



186 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Umbrellas 

Cologne and other German cities, Milan 
and Switzerland. Neither England nor 
France is an especially good place to buy 
umbrellas, for neither the French nor the 
English carry them when they can avoid 
it, and for very different reasons. The 
English dress for bad weather and, ex- 
cept in a drenching downpour, scorn the 
shelter of an umbrella. The French, de- 
spite their uncertain climate, likewise dis- 
pense with this homely article precisely 
because they consider it unlovely. Para- 
sols, now, are quite another matter. 
They can be treated as part of an elabo- 
rate toilet. They are of wonderful va- 
riety and originality in France. 

Underwear 

Silk, Milan and Paris. Woolen, Edin- 
burgh and Glasgow. Silk is a material 
which permits of elaboration, hence its 
more frequent use among the Latins than 
wool, for underclothing. The underwear 
of France, Belgium and Italy is most often 
of silk, both of good quality and good 
style. The woolens of England are un- 
questionably better than those of the Con- 
tinent, though it must be confessed they 
are more practical than beautiful in cut. 



Shopping Abroad 187 

Walking Sticks 

London. England is the home of the 
cane. It is as necessary to an English- 
man's comfort as his pipe. Therefore, 
although walking sticks are everywhere 
sold, they are nowhere so "smart" as in 
London. 

Watches 

Lucerne and Geneva. Swiss watches 
need no introduction to travelers: their 
merited renown is of too long standing. 
They are sold by all jewelers of all lands, 
but of course the logical place to buy 
them is where they are made. 

Waterproofs 

London. This provision for rain the 
English do allow. They make water- 
proofs almost as well as they do cloth 
suits, and their rubber-growing colonies 
provide them with an inexhaustable sup- 
ply of genuine rubber of a wearing 
quality almost unknown in these automo- 
bile days. 

Wood-carving 

Switzerland, the Black Forest, Norway 
and Sweden, the Harz Mountains, Sor- 
rento. This is a handicraft which, like 
the feminine lace-making, has not been 



188 Planning a Trip Abroad 

permitted to lapse in Europe. Carving 
wood is how the Swiss peasants spend 
their spare time and the results of their 
labors — bookracks and cuckoo clocks and 
salad tools and nut crackers and furni- 
ture ad infinitum — compose the stock in 
trade of a number of shops in every town 
and city. 

Miscellaneous 

Paris has in addition to her many regu- 
lar stores, a sort of magnified Old Curi- 
osity Shop, where all manner of curious 
second-hand things may be bought, such 
as old draperies, jewelry, brass, clothing, 
fans, rugs, trinkets — in fact, almost any- 
thing that you may desire to purchase. 
This permanent sale is held in the so- 
called Temple in one of the poorest sec- 
tions of the city. It is quite freely pat- 
ronized by art students and is well worth 
visiting, as much for its curious interest 
as for the chance of picking up desirable 
bargains. 



VI 

AUTOMOBILE TOURING ABROAD 

EUROPE is a veritable paradise for 
automobile owners, and to cover Eu- 
rope or part of it en auto is certainly the 
most delightful, although the most expen- 
sive, method of seeing the countries and 
their peoples. Good roads cross and re- 
cross the Continent like the strands that 
bound Gulliver, and good hotels all but 
rub gables with each other. 

Everything considered, France is per- 
haps the most remunerative country 
through which to motor, although Ger- 
many, Austria, Northern Italy, Switzer- 
land and Belgium are not far behind ; and 
I cannot imagine a more pleasant way to 
see little Holland than to sweep along its 
brick paved roads in a comfortable car. 
For American drivers, used to long 
stretches of straight roadway, England is 
at first very difficult and trying to negoti- 
ate in a motor. The roads, although well 
made, are narrow and very crooked, and 
the hedges at the sides obstruct the view 
ahead so that more than a nominal speed 
cannot be attained without risk. The cus- 
tom of driving to the left and passing to 
189 



190 Planning a Trip Abroad 

the right, the reverse of our own, is also 
tantalizing at first. 

The American Express Company is 
probably the best known firm packing and 
shipping automobiles from this country to 
Europe. The rates of transportation 
range from $75 to $200, according to the 
size of the car. The case in which the car 
is packed may be stored at the port of 
embarkation abroad and used again on the 
return voyage. 

No duty is imposed upon an automobile 
entering England, Scotland or Ireland, but 
lights and horn are carefully examined and 
must be in good working order. Licenses 
will cost from $10 to $25, according to the 
weight of the car. A registration fee is 
also required, costing approximately $5. 
The speed limit in England is fifteen miles 
an hour over country roads and eight miles 
in the cities. Petrol, the general commer- 
cial name for gasoline abroad, costs be- 
tween 24 and 36 cents a gallon. 

Crossing the Channel from England to 
France, the car may be shipped uncrated 
on any of the steamers, if accompanied by 
the owner or his representative. Applica- 
tion for deck space, giving the length, 
width and height of the car over all, should 
be made as early as possible. The steam- 
ers being comparatively small, their deck 
space is limited. 



^Automobile Touring Abroad 191 

The rate of transportation of an un- 
crated car shipped from Folkestone to 
Boulogne at the owner's risk is $25 ; at the 
risk of the company, about $38. The rate 
from Newhaven to Dieppe at the owner's 
risk is $22.50 ; and at the company's risk, 
$30.25, with the additional fee of $1 per 
ton weight. From Southampton, Cher- 
bourg or Havre the rate, when the weight 
of the car does not exceed one ton, is about 
$12. It is about $18 if the car weighs be- 
tween a ton and a ton and a half; and 
about $24 if it weighs between a ton and 
a half and two tons. 

The duty on motor cars in France is 
rather high, but there is the consolation 
that the amount paid will be returned to 
the motorist at the frontier when leaving 
the country, if within six months. The 
rate of duty is 50 francs ($10) for ap- 
proximately every 200 pounds over 275. 
If the car weighs less than 275 pounds, 
and no car does, the duty will be $24. A 
leaden seal is attached to a conspicuous 
part of the car to show that duty upon it 
has been paid; it will be removed at the 
frontier when the motorist has surrendered 
his certificate and the amount of duty has 
been refunded. 

French regulations require that every 
automobile in use in the country must be 
registered. The application for such 



192 Planning a Trip Abroad 

registration must bear a sixty centime 
stamp and include such information as the 
name and address of the owner of the car, 
the number of the motor and the name of 
the maker. After the registration has 
been made and properly noted by the au- 
thorities, a certain number will be allotted, 
which must be displayed both at the front 
and rear of the car. 

This is about all that happens to the 
car. Next comes the driver ; and the 
French authorities are as strict about the 
competence of the person who runs the car 
as they are about the car itself. The 
driver of a car in France must undergo an 
examination to prove his ability as a 
chauffeur — a wise regulation and one that 
might well be adopted in America. He 
must also supply the department with 
three unmounted photographs of himself, 
a passport or some other paper of equal 
authenticity as to the date of his birth, 
and his home address. If the applicant 
weathers all these specifications he will be 
supplied with a little red card upon which 
is stated that he may drive a motor car on 
French soil. 

Petrol costs about thirteen cents, or 
from sixty to seventy centimes, a liter in 
Paris. In the rural districts it costs only 
about half as much. When entering the 
capital every gasoline tank is examined 



Automobile Touring Abroad 193 

so that the tourist will not be running his 
motor at the rate of seven cents per liter 
of gasoline any longer than the law al- 
lows. Country hotels rarely charge gar- 
age dues ; the simple fact that the motor- 
ist has chosen that hotel in preference to 
another is considered sufficient. Rural 
France has practically no speed limit, but 
drivers are more than cautioned to be 
careful and the car must be at all times 
under perfect control. Arrest will be 
sure to follow the taking of an undue 
risk on the road. Ten miles an hour is 
supposed to be the limit in the cities, and 
both a white and a green light must be 
shown on the front of the car after dark. 
Members of the American Automobile 
Association will do well to apply for mem- 
bership in the Touring Club of France. 
This organization furnishes its members 
with the best road maps, authorizes them 
to demand a reduction of ten per cent, at 
certain hotels on the road, issues free per- 
mits for other countries and to enter or 
leave any other country as often as they 
wish without being compelled to pay the 
otherwise necessary duties. Application 
for membership may be made in person or 
by letter at 65 Avenue de la Grande 
Armee, Paris, and will be granted imme- 
diately. A description of the applicant's 
car in detail, and the owner's name and 



194 Planning a Trip Abroad 

address and number in the A. A. A. must 
be given. 

On entering Belgium a twelve per cent, 
ad valorem duty upon the car is imposed, 
which payment is refunded at the frontier 
when leaving the country. In other re- 
spects the regulations are similar to those 
of France. 

Switzerland is unpopular with motor- 
ists for the reason that the rules are so 
exacting that only a veritable saint could 
comply with them. When an accident 
does happen, as it will sometimes, the 
motorist is invariably the party to be 
held responsible, no matter on whose 
side the blame lies. The duty of $4 per 
100 kilograms of weight on the car is re- 
funded at the frontier when leaving the 
country, as in France and Belgium. At 
night the car must carry a white and a 
green light in front and a red light be- 
hind. The foot and the emergency brakes 
must each be able to stop the car within 
thirty-three feet (two meters) when mov- 
ing at the maximum legal speed, which is 
about nineteen miles an hour in the coun- 
try, six and a quarter miles in the cities, 
towns, or on mountain roads, and even 
slower than this when conditions require. 
The car must be stopped when meeting a 
Government stage on the road, or a horse 
that appears frightened. A permit to 



Automobile Touring Abroad 195 

drive is always necessary unless the driver 
can produce a permit issued by his own 
Government and when that Government 
and Switzerland act upon a reciprocity 
basis with regard to these permits. 

The same rule as stated just above ap- 
plies to foreign drivers in Italy, and five 
days after arrival is the time limit for 
obtaining a permit, either upon this reci- 
procity basis or by examination. For a 
car weighing 1,200 pounds (500 kilo- 
grams) or under the duty is $40, and will 
be refunded upon leaving the country 
within six months. Petrol in Italy costs 
about as much as it does in Paris. 

Austria discriminates a little and 
charges 130 kronen duty on the car and 
10 kronen per 220 pounds (100 kilo- 
grams) on the weight of the motor — all 
of which is refunded when the car leaves 
Austrian territory. 

Duty is not often demanded in Ger- 
many when the person accompanying the 
car can show a passport and prove by 
convincing argument that the car has 
been in his possession a certain length of 
time. Such is also the case in Holland, 
but a permit to drive must be obtained 
from the Secretary of Public Works and 
countersigned by the customs authorities. 
Petrol in Germany costs about ten cents 
(40 pfennigs) a gallon. 



196 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Denmark imposes no duty if the owner 
of the car signs a written declaration that 
he is touring and will remain in the coun- 
try only for a limited period. 

It is a very humorous experience even 
to travel by rail in Russia — after it is all 
over — but it is about twice as difficult and 
exasperating to try to take a motor car 
through the country as it is to attempt 
to travel through without a passport. 
"And that reminds me:" I once heard 
of a man who failed to procure this most 
necessary document before invading Rus- 
sian territory, and for some reason or 
other the arjny of officials at the frontier 
neglected to question him. His train had 
rolled along well into the interior before 
a zealous somebody demanded his pass- 
port. Not being able to produce one, the 
official said he would have to leave the 
country. There was no other alternative. 
The traveler was bundled off at the next 
station, and, under the supervision of the 
station master, was bundled aboard the 
next train going west. Inside of an hour 
an official demanded his permit to leave 
the country. The traveler confessed he 
was just out of permits. Without the 
necessary permit he could not cross the 
frontier, so, the official said, he would 
have to get off. With no passport to 
stay and no permit to leave, how he 



Automobile Touring Abroad 197 

finally arranged matters remains a mys- 
tery. 

But to come back to automobiling, the 
would-be motorist through Russia must 
first make application for a permit to the 
Secretary of Finance, affixing thereto 
stamps worth at least eighty kopeks 
(forty cents) and stating therein at what 
point he will enter the country, how long 
he expects to remain, and from what 
point he will leave. By the time the per- 
mit is forthcoming after the application 
has been made, the project may have es- 
caped the motorist's memory altogether. 
If he is persistent about it and finally 
succeeds in obtaining the permit, he will 
have to pay duty on his car. The amount 
is supposed to be refunded when he leaves 
Russia, but in nine cases out of ten he 
will have to wait until it suits the con- 
venience of the customs authorities to re- 
fund it. 

American-built automobiles, if they 
have been registered by their owners before 
going abroad, will be admitted again into 
the United States free of duty, provided 
they have not been improved upon abroad 
to a further extent than repairs which 
were absolutely necessary, and even these 
must not have cost in the aggregate more 
than ten per cent, of the original cost of 
the car. Cars of foreign manufacture 



198 Planning a Trip Abroad 

taken abroad for touring purposes, duty 
having already been paid upon them, may 
be brought into the United States by the 
owner, or within thirty days after his 
arrival, under the same stipulations as 
regard repairs. 



VII 

HOTELS AND HOTEL LIST 

APARTMENTS and accommodations 
in general, except meals, being 
taken into consideration, hotel expenses 
abroad are no lower than they are in 
America. The "first class" hotels abroad 
charge as much for a room as they do on 
this side of the water, and in many cases 
these rooms are vastly inferior. 

Meals taken in the hotels are more ex- 
pensive than the same meals taken in the 
restaurants about town. The cheapest 
method is to arrange only for room and 
breakfast, taking lunch and dinner when 
you will and wherever is the most con- 
venient. 

Hotel proprietors in Europe have a 
most profound regard for the personal 
letter written in advance and stating the 
number of rooms, on which sleeping floor 
they are desired and the price the writer 
is willing to pay for them. The nearer 
the top of any hotel the cheaper are the 
rooms, but the height makes little differ- 
ence these days when the elevator is so 
generally installed. Writing in advance 
is the method of the European himself, 
199 



200 Planning a Trip Abroad 

and "when in Rome," you know — . 
Whenever practicable, therefore, write on 
in advance to the hotel selected, specify- 
ing the number of rooms desired and the 
price. You will be invariably accommo- 
dated, and in a better manner than if you 
waited until you arrived to dicker with 
the proprietor in person. 

Keep accurate account of your hotel 
expenditures and never fail to add up the 
items on the bill yourself. A franc or 
two is often added with a smile by the 
head waiter, and is as smilingly subtracted 
the moment his attention is called to the 
error in addition. For this reason it is 
imperative that the traveler familiarize 
himself with the monetary system of the 
country. 

HOTEL LIST 

AUSTRIA 

BOTZEN: Victoria, Kaiserkrone, etc. 

BUDAPESTH: Hungaria, Royal, Queen of 
England, Erzherzog, Stephan, Orient, 
Budapesth, etc. 

GRATZ: Elephant, Florian, Golden Lion, 
etc. 

INNSBRUCK: Tirol, Europe, Goldene 
Sonne, Victoria, Kayser's Pension Ho- 
tel, Hapsburg, Kreid, etc. 

ISCHL: Kaiserin Elizabeth, Bauer, Victo- 
ria, Kaiserkrone, Stern, etc. 

LANDECK: Post, Goldener Adler. 



Hotels and Hotel List 201 

LINZ: Erzherzog Karl, Goldener Adler, etc. 

MELK: Lamm, Ochs, Kottl. 

PRAGUE: de Saxe, Victoria, Schwarzes 

Ross, Royal, Blauer Stern, Erzherzog 

Stephan, Goldener Engel. 
PRESSBURG: Griiner Baum, National, etc. 
SALZBURG: Europe, Austria, Nelbock, etc. 
TRIESTE: de la Ville, Delorme, Europe. 
TRENT: Trento, Carloni, Agnello d'Oro. 
VIENNA: Imperial, Archduke Charles, 

Grand, Metropole, Bristol, Austria, etc. 

Klomser, London, Ronacher, etc. 

BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
AMSTERDAM: Amstel, Bible, Victoria, 

Brack's Doelen, Americain, Palais 

Royal, Suisse, Polen, etc. 
ANTWERP: Grand, St. Antoine, de l'Eu- 

rope, Grand Hotel Weber, Commerce, 

Queen's, d'Angleterre. 
BRUGES: de Flandre, du Commerce, Wind- 
sor, Sablon, etc. 
BRUSSELS: Grand, Bellevue, Metropole, 

Astoria et Mengelle, Wiltcher's, de l'Eu- 

rope, Central, Bordeaux, etc. 
CHAUDEFONTAINE: des Bains, d'Angle- 

terre. 
GHENT: de la Poste, Royal, de VEtoile, 

d'Allemagne. 
HAARLEM: Funckler, Lion d'Or, Leeu- 

werik. 
THE HAGUE: des Indes, Vieux Doelen, 

Paulez's, Bellevue, Central, etc. 
LEYDEN: Lion d'Or, Levedag, Central. 
LIEGE: de Suede, d'Angleterre, de I'Uni- 

vers, du Chemin de Fer. 



202 Planning a Trip Abroad 

MALINES: La Station, Beffer, Buda, de la 

Coupe, Cheval d'Or. 
OSTEND: Continental, de l'Ocean, de la 

Plage, Imperial, du Phare, Allemagne, 

etc. 
ROTTERDAM: Maas, Leygraaf, France, 

St. Lucas, Victoria, Weimar. 
SPA: de Flandre, Orange, des Bains, Brit- 

tannique, etc. 
UTRECHT: Pays-Bas, de l'Europe, Belle- 

vue, de la Station. 
VERVIERS: Londres, Chemin de Fer, d' Al- 
lemagne. 

BRITISH ISLES 

ALUM BAY: Royal Needles. 
AMBLESIDE: Salutation, Queen's, White 

Lion, Waterhead. 
ARDRISHAIG: Royal, Lome. 
AYR: Station, King's Arms, Dalblair, Ayr 

Arms. 
BANAVIE: Banavie. 
BANGOR: George, British, Castle, Railway, 

William's Temperance. 
BATH: Grand Pump Room, York House, 

Royal, etc., Christopher. 
BEDFORD: Swan, Red Lion, George. 
BELFAST: Grand Central, Imperial, Ave- 
nue, Queen's, Station, Wilkinson's. 
BETTWS-Y-COED: Royal Oak, Waterloo, 

Gwydyr, Glen Aber, Craig-y-don. 
BIRMINGHAM: Queen's, Great Western, 

Plough and Harrow, Midland, Cobden, 

Swan, Acorn. 



Hotels and Hotel List 203 

BLAIR ATHOLE: Athole Arms, Glen Tilt. 

BONCHURCH: Bonchurch. 

BOSTON: Peacock, Red Lion. 

BOWNESS: Old England, Royal, Crown, 
Belsfield. 

BRADFORD: Victoria, Alexandra, Talbot, 
etc. 

BRIDGE OF ALLAN: Royal, Queen, Hy- 
dropathic. 

BRIGHTON: Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, Al- 
bion, New Steyne, Queen's, Gloucester, 
New Ship, King's Arms, Hollywood, 
Queen's Head, Crown, White Lion, etc. 

BRISTOL: Royal (near cathedral), Grand, 
Royal Talbot, etc. At CLIFTON: 
Clifton Down, St. Vincent's Rocks, etc. 

BROADSTAIRS: Ballard's, Albion, etc. 

BUXTON: Empire, Palace, St. Ann's, Cres- 
cent, Royal, Burlington, Eagle, Shakes- 
peare, etc. 

CALLANDER: Dreadnought, Ancaster 
Arms, Hydropathic. 

CAMBRIDGE: University Arms, Bull, Red 
Lion, Hoop, Livingstone (temperance). 

CANTERBURY: County, Fountain, Rose. 

CAPEL CURIG: Royal, Bryntyrch. 

CARLISLE: County Station, Central, Bush, 
Crown and Mitre, Viaduct, Graham's. 

CARNARVON: Royal, Royal Sportsman, 
Castle, Prince of Wales. 

CHATSWORTH: Chatsworth (at Edensor). 

CHELTENHAM: Plough, Queen's Royal, 
Fleece, Bellevue, Lamb. 

CHEPSTOW: Beaufort Arms, George. 



204 Planning a Trip Abroad 

CHESTER: Queen (at station), Grosvenor, 
Westminster, Blossoms. 

CHICHESTER: Dolphin, Eagle. 

CONWAY: Oakwood Park, Castle, Erskine 
Arms. 

CORK: Imperial, Royal Victoria, Moore's. 

COVENTRY: Queen, King's Head, Craven 
Arms. 

DONCASTER: Angel, Reindeer, 

DOVER: Lord Warden, Grand, Dover Cas- 
tle, King's Head, Shakespeare, Burling- 
ton, etc. 

DUBLIN: Shelbourne, Gresham, Metropole, 
Cecil, Barry's, Gough's, etc. 

DUMFRIES: King's Arms, Commercial, 
Station. 

DUNBLANE: Stirling Arms, Hydropathic. 

DURHAM: County (the best), Rose and 
Crown, Waterloo. 

EDINBURGH: Royal, Balmoral, Carlton, 
North British, Caledonian, etc., Douglas, 
Cochburn, Imperial, etc. 

ELY: Lamb, Bell, Angel. 

EXETER: Rougemont (near Queen St. sta- 
tion), Clarence, Queen's, New London, 
Half Moon. 

FURNESS ABBEY: Furness Abbey Hotel. 

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY: Causeway, Kane's 
Royal. 

GLASGOW: St. Enoch's, Central, North 
British, Windsor, Grand, Royal, etc., 
Steel's, Cochburn, etc. 

GLASTONBURY: George, Crown, Red 
Lion. 



Hotels and Hotel List 205 

GLOUCESTER: Bell, Wellington, New Inn, 
Fowler's {temperance'). 

GREENOCK: Tontine, White Hart, Royal, 
etc. 

HARROGATE: Queen, Granby, Prince of 
Wales, Majestic, Royal, Empress, etc. 

HARROW: King's Head, Railway. 

HARWICH: Great Eastern. 

HASTINGS: Queen's, Marine, Grand, Al- 
bion, Albany, Palace, Royal Oak, Gros- 
venor, etc. 

HEREFORD: Green Dragon, City Arms, 
Mitre. 

HOLYWELL: King's Head. 

INVERNESS: Caledonian, Station, Royal, 
Imperial, Victoria, Waverley, etc. 

INVERSNAID: Inversnaid. 

IONA: St. Columba, Argyll. 

KEIGHLEY: Devonshire Arms. 

KENILWORTH: Abbey, King's Arms. 

KESWICK: Keswick (at station), Queen's, 
Royal Oak, Lake, Derwentwater. 

KIDDERMINSTER: Lion, Black Horse. 

KILLARNEY: Great Southern, Royal Vic- 
toria, Railway, Lake, Graham's, 0' Sul- 
livan's (at Muckross). 

LANARK: Black Bull, Clydesdale. 

LEAMINGTON: Regent, Manor House, 
Clarendon, Bath, Crown, etc. 

LEEDS: Queen's (at Midland station), Met- 
ropole, Great Northern Station, Trevel- 
yan, Griffin. 

LICHFIELD: George, Swan. 

LINCOLN: Great Northern Station, White 
Hart, Saracen's Head. 



206 Planning a Trip Abroad 

LIVERPOOL: North Western Railway, 
Adelphi, Lancashire and Yorkshire, 
Grand, Imperial, Compton, Alexandra, 
Angel, Shaftesbury. 

LLANBERIS: Victoria, Padarn Villa, Dol- 
badarn. 

LLANDUDNO: Imperial, Queen's, Marine, 
St. George's, Prince of Wales, West- 
minster, etc. 

LOCH KATRINE: Stronachlachar. 

LONDON: Cecil, Savoy, Royal, Metropole, 
Victoria, Grand, First Avenue, Russell, 
Charing Cross, Inns of Court, Morley's, 
Windsor, Westminster Palace, St. Er- 
mins. 

LONDONDERRY: Jury's, Imperial, City, 
etc. 

MANCHESTER: Queen's, Grand, Gros- 
venor, Albion, Victoria. 

MARGATE : York, White Hart, Elephant. 

MATLOCK BATH: New Bath, Royal, Tem- 
ple, Terrace, Devonshire, Hodgkinson's, 
etc. 

MAUCHLINE: Loudoun Arms. 

MELROSE: Abbey, George, King's 
Arms. 

MONMOUTH: Beaufort Arms, King's 
Head, Bridge, Angel, etc. 

NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE : Station, Central 
Exchange, Douglas, County, Turk's 
Head, York, etc. 

NEWHAVEN: Ship. 

NEWPORT, ISLE OF WIGHT: Bugle, 
Warburton, Star, Wheatsheaf, etc. 

NORWICH: Maid's Head, Royal, Bell, Cas- 
tle. 



Hotels and Hotel List 207 

NOTTINGHAM: George, Portland, Flying 

Horse, Caledonian (temperance). 
OBAN: Great Western, Alexandra, Station, 

Caledonian, Craig-Ard, Columba, Royal, 

King's Arms, Argyll, Victoria, etc. 
OXFORD:. Randolph, Clarendon, Mitre, 

King's Arms, Roebuck, Golden Cross. 
PAISLEY: George, County, Globe. 
PENRITH: Crown, George. 
PETERBOROUGH: Great Northern, 

Grand, Angel, Bull. 
PLYMOUTH: Duke of Cornwall, Royal, 

Grand, Albion, Chubb's, Lockyer, etc. 
PORTRUSH: Northern Counties, Antrim 

Arms, Coleman's. 
PORTSMOUTH: George, Central, Keppel's 

Head, etc.; at SOUTHSEA: Esplanade, 

Royal Pier, Queen, etc. 
QUEENSTOWN: Queen's, Beach. 
RAMSGATE : Granville, Albion, Royal, etc. 
RIPON: Unicorn, Crown, Black Bull. 
ROCHESTER: Crown, Victoria and Bull, 

King's Head. 
ROSS: Royal, Swan, King's Head. 
ROWSLEY: Peacock. 

RUGBY: Royal George, Horseshoes, Eagle. 
RYDE: Royal Pier, Esplanade, Marine, 

Eagle, Crown, York, etc. 
ST. ALBANS: Peahen, George. 
SALISBURY: White Hart, New County, 

Angel, Red Lion, Cathedral, Old 

George. 
SCARBOROUGH: Grand, Crown, Prince 

of Wales, Pavillion, Queen, Castle, etc. 
SHEFFIELD: Victoria, Midland, Royal, 

King's Head, Albany, Angel. 



208 Planning a Trip Abroad 

SOUTHAMPTON: South Western Railway, 

Radley's, Dolphin, Royal, Star, Crown, 

Flower's, Railway. 
STIRLING: Golden Lion, Royal, Station. 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON : Shakespeare, 

Red Horse, Falcon, Golden Lion. 
TEWKESBURY: Swan, Bell. 
TORQUAY: Imperial, Victoria and Albert, 

Torbay, Royal, Queen's, Western, etc. 
VENTNOR: Marine, Royal, Queen's Ez- 

planade, Crab and Lobster, Commercial, 

Terminus, Rayner's Temperance, etc. 
WARWICK: Woolpack, Warwick Arms. 
WELLS: Swan, Mitre, Star. 
WILTON: Pembroke Arms. 
WINCHESTER: George, Royal, Black 

Swan, God Begot House. 
WINDSOR: White Hart, Castle, Bridge 

House. 
WOLVERHAMPTON: Star and Garter, 

Victoria, Talbot, Coach and Horses. 
WORCESTER: Star, Bell, Unicorn, Crown, 

Great Western, Central, etc. 
YORK: Station, Harker's, Black Swan, 

Clarence, City. 

FRANCE 

AIX-LES-BAINS: Aix, Europe, Metropole, 
Albion, Venat, du Nord, Splendide, 
Beausite, du Centre, etc. 

AMIENS: Du Rhin, de l'Univers, Ecu de 
France, Commerce. 

ARLES: Forum, du Nord. 

AVIGNON: Europe, Avignon, Crillon, Lou- 
vre. 



Hotels and Hotel List 209 

BEAUVAIS: de France et d'Angleterre, 

Continental. 
B0URGES: France, Boule d'Or, Jacques 

Coeur. 
CAEN: Angleterre, St. Pierre, d'Espagne, 

etc. 
CALAIS: Grand, Terminus, Central. 
CHAMBRAY: France, des Princes, La Paix, 

etc. 
CHARTRES: Grand Monarque, Due de 

Chartres, France. 
CHERBOURG: de L'Amiraute, des Bains, 

Aigle. 
DIEPPE: Royal, Metropole, Grand, de 

Paris, du Commerce, etc. 
DIJON: de la Cloche, Bourgogne, Jura, Mo- 
rot. 
FONTAINEBLEAU: Aigle Noir, France, 

Europe, etc. 
HAVRE: Frascati, Continental, Bordeaux, 

Tortoni, Aigle d'Or, etc. 
LYONS: de Lyon, Bellecour, Europe, Nou- 

vel, des Etrangers, Bayard, etc. 
MARSEILLES: Terminus, du Louvre et de 

la Paix, Grand, Noailles, Orleans, des 

Negociants, etc. 
MENTONE: Des Anglais, des lies Brit- 

tanniques, National, Bellevue, du Lou- 
vre, etc. 
METZ: Grand, Metz, Paris, France. 
MONTE CARLO (Monaco): Metropole, 

Paris, Grand, Hermitage, des Anglais, 

Splendide, Littoral, Londres, etc. 
NANCY: Grand, France, Europe, Ameri- 

cain. 



210 Planning a Trip Abroad 

NICE: des Anglais, Grand Bretagne, Beau- 
rivage, France, Grand, Metropole, Pal- 
ace, etc. 

NIMES: Luxembourg, Manivet, Cheval 
Blanc. 

ORLEANS: Orleans, St. Aignan, Loiret. 

PARIS: Du Louvre, Continental, Grand, 
Albany, Meurice, de l'Athenee, Palais 
D'Orsay, St. James, Brighton, Termi- 
nus, Regina, Majestic, Elysee Palace, 
Mirabeau. 

RHEIMS: Lion d'Or, Maison Rouge, Eu- 
rope, etc. 

ROUEN: Albion, Angleterre, France, de la 
Poste, Dauphin, Victoria, Univers. 

ST. GERMAIN: Pavilion d'Henri IV., 
Prince de Galles, l'Ange Gardien. 

TOULON: Grand, Victoria, de la Paix, 
Louvre. 

TROYES: des Courriers, Mulet, Commerce. 

VERSAILLES: des Reservoirs, du Vatel, de 
France. 

VICHY: Ambassadeurs, Mombrun, Nouvel, 
des Princes, Grand Bretagne, etc. 

GERMANY 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE: Grand Monarque, 
Nuellens, Metropole, l'Empereur, Drag- 
on d'Or, Imperial Crown, Elephant, du 
Nord, etc. 

ANDERNACH: Hackenbruch, Glocke, 
Rhein. 

ASSMANSHAUSEN: Krone, Anker, Rhein, 
Eulberg, Germania. 



Hotels and Hotel List 211 

AUGSBURG: Drei Mohren, Goldene 

Traube, Weisses Lamm, Die Kronen. 
BACHARACH : Herbrecht, Bliicherthal, 

Weber. 
BADEN-BADEN: Stephenie, Europe, Mess- 

mer, Angleterre, Bellevue, Victoris, 

Hirsch, Holland, etc. 
BERLIN: Adlon, Bristol, Savoy, Palace, 

Central, Kaiserhof, Continental, Rome, 

etc., Kaiser, Windsor, Minerva, Beyer's, 

etc. 
BIEBRICH: Bellevue, Nassau, etc. 
BINGEN: Victoria, Starkenburger, Distel. 
BONN: Goldener Stern, Royal, Kley, Rhein- 

beck, Swan, etc. 
BOPPARD: Spiegel, Bellevue, Hirsch, Clos- 

mann. 
BORNHOFEN: Marienberg. 
BRAUBACH: Kaiserhof, Rhein, Nassau. 
BREMEN: Hillman's, Europe, Nord, etc. 
CAPELLEN: Stolzenfels, Bellevue, Lah- 

neck. 
CARLSRUHE: Germania, Victoria, Grosse, 

etc. 
CAUB: Zum Griinen Wald, Adler, Pfalz. 
COBLENCE: Giant, Bellevue, Anker, 

Traube. 
COLOGNE: Monopol, du Dome, du Nord, 

Continental, Victoria, Disch, Reichshof, 

St. Paul, etc. 
DARMSTADT: Darmstadt, Traube, Rail- 
way. 
DRESDEN: Bellevue, Bristol, Europe, 

Grand Union, Weber's, Stadt Berlin, 

Rome, etc. 



212 Planning a Trip Abroad 

EMS: Curhaus, Angleterre, Russie, Flandre, 

etc. 
FRANKFORT : Frankfurterhof, Russia, 

Bristol, National, Continental, Schwan, 

Union, Drexel, etc. 
FREIBURG: Zahringer, Victoria, Engel, 

etc. 
iHAMBURG: Atlantic, Hamburg, Streit's, 

Vier Jahrezeiten, etc. 
HEIDELBERG: Europe, Grand, Schrieder, 

Schloss, Victoria, Prince Karl, Ritter, 

Reichspost, etc. 
HOMBURG: Russie, Four Seasons, Victo- 
ria, Bellevue, Central, Adler, etc. 
KONIGSWINTER: Berlin, Europe, Rief- 

fel, Traube, etc. 
LEIPSIC: Hauffe, de Prusse, de Russie, 

Sedan, etc. 
LORCH: Krone, Schmidt, Railway. 
MANNHEIM : Park, Pfalz, Kaiser, Deutsch, 

National. 
MAYENCE: Holland, Rhein, d'Angleterre, 

Post, Taunus, Coblence, etc. 
MUNICH: Four Seasons, Bavaria, Bellevue, 

Continental, Rhein, d'Angleterre, etc., 

Leinf elder, Central, etc. 
NEUWIED: Anker, Wilder Mann, Mora- 
vian, Mader. 
NUREMBURG: Bavarian, Strauss, Gol- 

dener Adler, Wiirtemberg, Grand, Wit- 

telsbach, Rother Hahn. 
OBERLAHNSTEIN: Weller, Breitenbach. 
OBERWESEL: Rhein, Goldener Pfropfen- 

zieher. 
RATISBON: Goldenes Kreuz, Gruner 



Hotels and Hotel List 213 

Kranz, Maximilian, etc. 

REM AGE N: Fiirstenberg, Hoersen, Hol- 
land, Rhein, Anker. 

ROLANDSECK: Rolandseck, Victoria, 
Bellevue, Decker. 

RUDESHEIM: Darmstadt, Jung, Rhein- 
stein, Ehrhard, etc. 

ST. GOAR: Lilie, Schneider, Rheinfels. 

ST. GOARSHAUSEN: Adler, Krone, Nas- 
sau. 

SPIRES: Rhein, Wittelsbach, Pfalz. 

STRASBOURG: National, Ville de Paris, 
Palace, France, Europe, etc. 

STUTTGART: Marquardt, Royal, Krauss, 
Textor, Post, etc. 

TRARBACH: Bellevue, Adolf, Marx. 

TREVES: Porta Nigra, Treves, Luxem- 
bourg, Anker, Venedig. 

ULM: Russia, Europe, Kronprinz, Golden 
Lion, Oberpollinger. 

WIESBADEN: Kaiserhof, Nassau, Metro- 
pole, Four Seasons, Rose, Park, d'An- 
gleterre, Victoria, Minerva, National, 
Rome, etc. 

WORMS: Alter Kaiser, Hartmann, Europe, 
Kaiserhof, Reichskrone. 

WURZBURG: Russia, Kronprinz, Central, 
Schwan, Wurtemberg, National, etc. 

ITALY 

AMALFI: Cappuccini-Convento, Cappuccini- 
Marina, della Luna, Sirena Italia, etc. 

ANCONA: Roma e Pace, Victoria, Milano, 
Ferrovia. 

AREZZO: Angleterre, Victoria, Stella. 



214 Planning a Trip Abroad 

ASSISI: del Subasio, Leone, Giotto, Min- 
erva. 

B AVE NO: Bellevue, Beaurivage, Simplon, 
Suisse. 

BELLAGIO: Grand, Grande Bretagne, Ge- 
nazzini, Florence, Suisse. 

BELLINZONA: Suisse, Cervo, Railway. 

BERGAMO: Italia, Concordia, Cappello 
d'Oro. 

BOLOGNA: Brun, Italia, Europe, Stella 
d'ltalia, Pellegrino. 

BRESCIA: Italia, Brescia, Gallo, Gambero. 

BRINDISI: Grand Hotel International, 
Europe, Central. 

CADENABBIA: Bellevue, Britannia, Belle- 
Isle. 

CAPRI: At the MARINA: Vesuvio, Alex- 
andra, Bellevue, Continental, de la 
Grotte Bleue, Bristol. At CAPRI: 
Quisisana, Royal, Pagano. 

CASTELLAMARE: Stabia, Quisisana, 
Weiss. 

CATANIA: Gran Bretagna, Bristol, Cen- 
trale, Globe, Sangiorgi, Vittoria, Roma. 

COLICO: Risi, Piazza Garibaldi, Croce 
d'Oro. 

COMO: Volta, Plinius, Metropole, Italia, 
Bellevue. 

CORTONA: Nazionale, Garibaldi. 

CREMONA: Cappelo, Roma. 

DESENZANO: Reale Meyer, Trento, Due 
Colombe, Railway Restaurant. 

DOMO D' OSSOLA: de la Ville, Terminus. 

FERRA: Stella d'Oro, Europa. 

FLORENCE: Savoy, Grand, de la Ville, 



Hotels and Hotel List 215 

Italia, New York, Paoli, Gran Bretagna, 
Florence and Washington, d* Albion, etc. 

GENOA: Genoa, Savoy, Isotta, Eden, Mod- 
erno, de la Ville, de Londres, de France, 
Bertolini's, Bristol, etc. 

LEGHORN: Grand, Angleterre, Giappone, 
Falcone, Bastia. 

LOCARNO: Locarno, Metropole, du Pare, 
du Lac. 

LUCCA: Croce di Malta, Universo, Corona. 

LUCCA, BATHS OF: Europa, New York, 
Bagni di Lucca. 

LUGANO: du Pare, Bellevue, Washington, 
Lugano, Suisse, Beauregard, etc. 

LUINO: Simplon, Posta, Luino. 

MANTUA: Aquila d'Oro, Senoner. 

MILAN: de la Ville, Cavour, Milan, Conti- 
nental, Palace, Europa, Manin, Metro- 
pole, Terminus, du Pare, Schmid, etc. 

MODENA: Reale, San Marco, Italia, Cen- 
trale, Scudo di Francia. 

NAPLES: Bertolini's Palace, Grand, Bris- 
tol, Parker's, Metropole, Eden, Mac- 
pherson's, Gran Bretagna, des Etran- 
gers, Splendid, Continental, Riviera, 
Santa Lucia. 

ORTA: San Giulio, Orta, Belvedere. 

ORVIETO: de la Belle Arti, Aquila Bianca. 

PADUA: Croce d'Oro, Fanti. 

PALERMO: des Palmes, Trinacria, de 
France, de la Paix, Centrale, Oliva, 
Italia. 

PALLANZA: Grand Pallanza, Eden, Posta, 
Milano. 

PARMA: Croce Bianca, Italia. 



216 Planning a Trip Abroad 

PAVIA: Croce Bianca, Tre Re. 
PERUGIA: Palace, Brufani, Grande Bre- 

tagne, Belle Aarti, Umbria. 
PIACENZA: San Marco, Croce Bianca, 

Italia, 
PISA: Minerva, Victoria, Londres, Nettuno, 

National, Washington. 
PISTOIA: Globo, Rossini. 
POMPEII: Diomede, del Sole, Suisse. 
RAVENNA: Byron, Spada, d'Oro. 
ROME: Quirinal, Russie, Select, Michel, 
Grand Continental, Angleterre, Mod- 
erne. 
SALERNO: d'Angleterre. 
SIENA: Continental, Siena, Aquila Nera, 

Tre Mori, Scala, Toscana. 
SORRENTO: Victoria, La Sirena, Tramon- 
tane, Tasso, Gran Bretagne, etc. 
STRESA: des lies Borromees, Milan, Beau- 

sejour, Italia, Regina Palace. 
SYRACUSE: Grand, Villa Agradina, des 

Estrangers, Villa Politi, Vittoria, etc. 
TERNI: Europa, Italia. 
TIVOLI: Regina, Sibylla. 
TURIN: Europa, Torino, de la Ville, Cen- 
trale, Suisse, du Nord, Tre Corone, etc. 
VENICE: Grand, Europa, Danieli, Britan- 
nia, Italia, d'Angleterre, Victoria, Belle- 
vue, San Marco, etc. 
VERONA: di Londra, Colomba d'Oro, Aquila 

Nera, San Lorenzo, etc. 
VICENZA: Roma, Tre Garafoni, Parigi. 

RUSSIA 
MOSCOW: National, Berlin, Belle Vue. 



Hotels and Hotel List 217 

ST. PETERSBURG: Victoria, de France, 

Grand, d'Angleterre. 
WARSAW: Bristol. 



SPAIN 

CADIZ: de France et Turin. 
CORDOVA: Suisse. 
ESCURIAL: Miranda, New Hotel. 
GIBRALTAR: Bristol, Grand, Cecil. 
GRANADA: Washington Irving, Victoria. 
MADRID: Des Ambassadeurs, Roma, Paris. 
SEVILLE: Madrid, de Paris, d'Angleterre. 
TOLEDO: de Castilla. 

SWITZERLAND 

ALTDORF: Lowe, Schliissel, Tell. 
AMSTEG: Stern (or Post), Hirsch, Weisses 

Kreuz. 
ANDERMATT: Grand, Bellevue, St. Gott- 

hard, Drei Konige, Oberlap. 
ARTH: Adler, Rigi. 
BASLE : Trois Rois, Euler, Suisse, St. Gott- 

hard, Victoria, Jura, Krafft, etc. 
BERNE: Bernerhof, Bellevue, Schweizer- 

hof, Ours, France, Pfistern, etc. 
BRIEG: Couronne et Poste, Angleterre. 
BRIENZ: Croix Blanche, Bar. 
BRUNNEN: Waldstatter, Adler, Hirsch, 

Eden, etc. 
CHAMONIX: Couttet, Imperial, Royal, Ca- 

chat, Angleterre, des Aples, Beausite, 

France, etc. 
CHILLON: (between Chillon and Ville- 

neuve), Byron, Chillon, 



218 Planning a Trip Abroad 

COIRE: Steinbock, Lukmanier, Croix 
Blanche, Stern, Drei Konige. 

CONSTANCE: Insel, Halm, Hecht, 
Schonebeck, Krone, Falke. 

DAVOS-PLATZ: Kurhaus Davos, Belvedere, 
d'Angleterre, Victoria, etc. 

EINSIEDELN: Pfau, Sonne, Schlange. 

ENGELBERG: Grand, Titlis, Sonnenberg, 
Engel, Suisse. 

FLUELEN: Weisses Kreuz, Tell, Adler. 

FREIBURG: Terminus, Suisse, Faucon, 
Autruche, Tete Noire. 

FURKA PASS: de la Furka. 

GENEVA: Beaurivage, des Bergues, d'An- 
gleterre, de la Paix, National, Rich- 
mond, Park, etc. 

GRINDELWALD: Bar, Eiger, du Glacier, 
Schonegg, Burgener, Alpenruhe, Na- 
tional, etc. 

HOSPENTHAL: Meyerhof, Lion d'Or. 

INTERLAKEN: Victoria, Beaurivage, 
Royal St. George, de Alpes, Jungfrau, 
etc. Terminus, du Nord, Beausite, etc. 

KANDERSTEG: Kandersteg, Blumenapl, 
Victoria, etc. 

LAUSANNE : Gibbon, Richemont, des Alpes, 
Beausite, National, du Nord, etc. 

LAUTERBRUNNEN: Staubbach, Stein- 
bock. 

LEUKERBAD: des Alpes, Maison Blanche, 
de France, Union, etc. 

LINDAU: Bayrischerhof, Krone, Reute- 
mann, Lindau. 

LUCERNE : Schweizerhof, Luzernerhof, 
National, Europe, Angleterre, Schwan, 



Hotels and Hotel List 219 

Balances, Eden, Engel, Adler, des 

Alpes, etc. 
MARTIGNY: Clerc, Mont Blanc, National. 
MEIRINGEN: Sauvage, des Alpes, Bar, 

Krone. 
MURREN: Miirren, des Alpes, Beausite. 
NEUCHATEL: Bellevue, du Lac, Faucon, 

Soleil, du Port. 
NEUHAUSEN : Schweizerhof, Bellevue, 

Rheinfall. 
PONTRESINA: Roseg, Krone, Enderlin, 

Weisses Kreuz, Pontresina, Languard. 
RAGATZ: Quellenhof, Schweizerhof, Ra- 

gatz, Tamina, Lattmann, Krone, Rosen- 

garten, etc. 
RIGI: Rigi-Kulm, Rigibahn, Felchlin, Rigi- 

Staffel, Kaltbad, Bellevue, Rigi-First. 
ST. GALL: Hecht, Walhalla, Hirsch, Setoff. 
ST. MORITZ (ENGADINE). At the 

BATHS: Kurhaus, Stahlbad. du Lac, 

Bellevue, National, Central} etc. At the 

VILLAGE: Kulm, Palace, Belvedere, 

Suisse, etc. 
SAM ADEN: Bermina (best), Bellevue, des 

Alpes, Krone. 
SCHAFFHAUSEN: Miiller, Riese. 
SPIEZ (LAKE THUN): Park, Schonegg, 

Spiez. 
SPLUGEN: Bodenhaus, Spliigen. 
THUN: Thun, Bellevue, Falke, Kreuz, 

Krone, etc. 
VEVEY: du Lac, Trois Couronnes, Vevey, 

d'Angleterre, Trois Rois, etc. 
VITZNAU: Rigibahn, Rigi, du Pare. 
WEGGIS: du Lac, Lowe, Bellevue. 



220 Planning a Trip Abroad 

WIESEN: Bellevue, Palmy. 

ZERMATT: Monte Rosa, Mont-Cervin, Zer- 

matt, Post, Terminus, Suisse. 
ZUG: Hirsch, Bahnhof, Rigi. On the ZU- 

GERBERG: Kurhaus, Felsenegg, 

Schonfels. 
ZURICH: Baur au Lac, Bellevue, Simplon, 

Croix Blanche, National, etc. 

TYROL 

BELLUNO: des Alpes, Belluno, Cappellor 
CORTINA: Bellevue, Aquila Nera, Cortina, 

Miramonti, etc. 
FELTRE: Doriguzzi, Tre Corone, Stella 

d'Oro. 
FRANZENFESTE: Railway Restaurant, 

Bahnhof. 
LANDRO: Baur. 

LONGARONE: Posta, Roma, Lepre. 
MISURINA: Grand Misurina. 
PERAROLO: Corona d'Oro, Sant' Anna. 
PIEVE DI CADORE: Marmarole, Angelo, 

Cadore. 
SCHLUDERBACH: Pioner's, Schluderbach, 

Sigmundsbrunnen. 
TOBLACH: Siidbahn, Union, Germania, etc. 



VIII 

BOOKS TO READ 

GENERAL INFORMATION 

A Satchel Guide to Europe. By W. J. 

Rolfe. 
The Complete Pocket Guide to Europe. By 

E. C. and T. L. Stedman. 
Practical European Guide. By M. D. Fra- 

zer. 
Health Resorts of Europe. By Thomas 

Linn, M.D. 
Civilization During the Middle Ages. By 

Adams. 
Studies in Medieval History. By Stille. 
The Construction of Europe. By Murdock. 
Stoddard's Lectures. 
Burton Holmes' Travelogues. 
Picture Towns of Europe. By Albert B. 

Osborne. McBride, Nast & Co. 

AUSTRO-HUNGARY 

Austro-Hungarian Life in Town and Coun- 
try. By F. H. E. Palmer. 

The Fair Land of Tyrol. By W. D. Mc- 
Cracken. 

Tyrol, the Land in the Mountains. By 
Crohnan. 

Tyrol and Its People. By Clive Holland. 

Vienna and the Viennese. By M. H. Lands- 
dale. 

Baedeker's Austro-Hungary. 
221 



222 Planning a Trip Abroad 

BALKAN STATES 

Through Savage Europe. By Harvey De 
Windt. 

A British Officer in the Balkans. By Percy 
E. Henderson. 

Motoring in the Balkans. By Frances Kins- 
ley Hutchinson. 

The Lands of the Tamed Turk. By Blair 
Jaekel. L. C. Page & Co. 

Turkey and the Balkan States. By Esther 
Singleton. Dodd, Mead & Co. 

Bosnia and the Herzegovina. By Maud 
Holbach. 

BELGIUM 

Belgian Life in Town and Country. By 

Demetrius C. Boulger. 
Belgium of the Belgians. By Demetrius C. 

Boulger. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
The Cathedrals and Churches of Belgium. 

By T. Francis Bumpus. 
Belgium. By Grant Allen. 

ENGLAND AND WALES 

England Without and Within. By Richard 
Grant White. Houghton Mifflin Co. 

Ways and Days Out of London. By Aida 
Rodman De Milt. 

Nooks and Corners of Old England. By Al- 
len Fea. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

Certain Delightful English Towns. By W. 
D. Howells. Harper & Bros.. 

Seven English Cities. By W. D. Howells. 
Harper & Bros. 



Books to Read 223 

English Hours. By Henry James. Hough- 
ton Mifflin Co. 

Literary By-Paths in Old England. By 
Henry C. Shelley. Little, Brown & Co. 

London. By Henry James Forman. 

A Shopping Guide to Paris and London. By 
Frances B. S. Waxman. MeBride, Nast 
& Co. 

Walks in London. By A. J. C. Hare. 

Three Weeks in the British Isles. By John 
U. Higginbotham. 

London and Its Celebrities. By J. H. Jesse. 

Literary and Historical Memorial of London. 
By J. H. Jesse. 

Dickens' London. By Francis Miltoun. 

Milton's London. By L. A. Mead. 

Handbook of English Cathedrals. By S. 
Van Rensselaer. 

A Trip to England. By Goodwin Smith. 

London Films. By W. D. Howells. 

Shakespeare's England. By William Win- 
ter. 

Gray Days and Gold. By William Winter. 

Cathedral Days. By A. B. Dodd. 

Baedeker's Great Britain. 

Baedeker's London and Its Environs. 

Black's Devonshire. 

Black's Isle of Wight. 

Black's Leamington (including Stratford- 
on-Avon, Kenilworth, Warwick, etc.). 

Black's English Lakes. 

Black's Wales. 

Black's London and Its Environs. 

Ward, Locke & Co.'s Guide to South Wales. 

Cook's Handbook for London, 



224 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Cook's Historical and Literary Map of Lon- 
don. 

Wild Wales. By Geo. Borrow. 

The South Wales Coast. By Ernest Rhys. 
F. A. Stokes Co. 



FRANCE 

Seeing France with Uncle John. By Anne 
Warner. 

France and the French. By Charles Daw- 
barn. The Macmillan Co. 

France in the 20th Century. By W. L. 
George. John Lane Co. 

Home Life in France. By Matilda Barbara 
Betham-Edwards. 

French Life in Town and Country. By 
Hannah Lynch. G. P. Putnam's Sons. 

Royal Palaces and Parks of France. By 
Francis Miltoun. L. C. Page & Co. 

The France of To-day. By Barrett Wen- 
dell. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

Unfrequented France. By M. Betham- 
Edwards. 

A Little Tour in France. By Henry James. 
Houghton Mifflin Co. 

In the Rhone Country. By Rose G. Kings- 
ley. E. P. Dutton Co. 

Through the French Provinces. By Ernest 
Peixotto. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

An Inland Voyage. By Robert Louis Stev- 
enson. 

Travels with a Donkey. 

A Motor Flight through France. By Edith 
Wharton. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 



Books to Read 225 

Andorra — The Hidden Republic. By Lewis 
Gaston Leary. McBride, Nast & Co. 

A Shopping Guide to Paris and London. 
By Frances B. S. Waxman. McBride, 
Nast & Co. 

Paris. By Grant Allen. 

Dumas' Paris. By Francis Miltoun. 

Rambles in Brittany. By Francis Miltoun. 

Baedeker's Paris and Its Environs. 

Baedeker's Northern France. 

Baedeker's Southern France. 

GERMANY 

Home Life in Germany. By Mrs. Alfred 

Sidgwick. 
German Life in Town and Country. By 

William Harbutt Dawson. G. P. Put- 
nam's Sons. 
The Danube with Pen and Pencil. By B. 

Granville Baker. 
Romantic Germany. By Robert Haven 

Schauffler. The Century Co. 
The German Empire. By Howard. 
Among Bavarian Inns. By F. R. Fraprie. 
Germany, Her People and Their Story. By 

Gifford. 
Modern Germany. By Eltzbacher. 
Baedeker's Northern Germany. 
Baedeker's Southern Germany. 
Baedeker's Rhine. 

Baedeker's Berlin and Its Environs. 
Cook's Handbook to the Rhine and the Black 

Forest. 

GREECE 

The World of Homer. By Andrew Lang. 



226 Planning a Trip Abroad 

Greece and the iEgean Islands. By Philip 
Sanford Marden. Houghton Mifflin Co. 

Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece. 
By John Addington Symonds. 

The Isles and Shrines of Greece. By Sam- 
uel J. Barrows. 

Baedeker's Greece and the Greek Islands. 

HOLLAND 

Windmills and Wooden Shoes. By Blair 
Jaekel. McBride, Nast & Co. 

Holland of To-day. By Geo. Wharton Ed- 
wards. Moffat, Yard & Co. 

Dutch Life in Town and Country. By P. 
M. Hough. G. P. Putnam's Sons. 

A Wanderer in Holland. By E. V. Lucas. 
The Macmillan Co. 

Home Life in Holland. By D. S. Meldrum. 
The Macmillan Co. 

The Spell of Holland. By Burton E. Ste- 
venson. L. C. Page & Co. 

The American in Holland. By W. E. Grif- 
fiths. 

Holland. By E. De Amicis. 

Puritan in England, Holland and America. 
By Douglass Campbell. 

Holland and the Hollanders. By David S. 
Meldrum. 

The Rise of the Dutch Republic. By John 
Lothrop Motley. 

Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 

IRELAND 

Romantic Ireland. By M. T. and B. M. 

Mansfield. 
Black's Ireland. 



Books to Read 227 

Black's Killarney and South Ireland. 
One Irish Summer. By Curtis. 

ITALY 

The Italians of To-Day. By Rene Bazin. 

Henry Holt & Co. 
Italian Life in Town and Country. By Luigi 

Villari. G. P. Putnam's Sons. 
My Italian Year. By Richard Bogot. Jas. 

Pott & Co. 
The Ideal Italian Tour. By Henry James 

Forman. Houghton Mifflin Co. 
Italian Cities. By Edwin Howland Blash- 

field and E. W. Blashfield. Chas. Scrib- 

ner's Sons. 
The Cathedrals and Churches of Northern 

Italy. By T. Francis Bumpus. L. C. 

Page & Co. 
The Valley of Aosta. By Felice Ferrero. G. 

P. Putnam's Sons. 
Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece. 

By John Addington Symonds. 
Walks in Rome. By A. J. C. Hare. 
Cities of Central Italy. By. A. J. C. Hare. 
Cities of Southern Italy. By A. J. C. Hare. 
Venetian Life. By W. D. Howells. 
Cities of Northern Italy. By Grant Allen. 
The Hill Towns of Italy. By E. R. Wil- 
liams, Jr. 
A Little Pilgrimage in Italy. By Olave M. 

Potter. 
Italy, Her People and Their Story. By 

GifFord. 
In Unknown Tuscany. By Lawrence Hut- 
ton. 



228 Planning a Trip Abroad 

The Road in Tuscany. By Maurice Hew- 
lett. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

Earthwork Out of Tuscany. By Maurice 
Hewlett. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

Italian Hours. By Henry James. Hough- 
ton Mifflin Co. 

Italian Journeys. By W. D. Howells. 
Houghton Mifflin Co. 

Roman Holidays. By W. D. Howells. 
Harper & Bros. 

Tuscan Cities. By W. D. Howells. Hough- 
ton Mifflin Co. 

By Italian Seas. By Ernest Peixotto. 
Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

Gondola Days. By F. Hopkinson Smith. 
Houghton Mifflin Co. 

Italian Backgrounds. By Edith Wharton. 

Salve Venetia. By F. Marion Crawford. 
The Macmillan Co. 

Cities of Umbria. By Lawrence Hutton. 

Cook's Handbook for Northern Italy. 

Cook's Handbook for Southern Italy. 

Baedeker's Northern Italy. 

Baedeker's Central Italy and Rome. 

Baedeker's Southern Italy and Sicily. 

Baedeker's Italy from the Alps to Naples. 

MEDITERRANEAN COUNTRIES 

Baedeker's Mediterranean. 
Macmillan's Mediterranean. 
The Mediterranean Trip. By Noah Brooks. 
Mediterranean Winter Resorts By Rey- 
nolds Ball. 

NORWAY AND SWEDEN 

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 



Books to Read 229 

PALESTINE 

The Real Palestine of To-day. By Lewis 
Gaston Leary. McBride, Nast & Co. 

RUSSIA 

Greater Russia. By Wirt Gerrare. 

The Story of Moscow. By Wirt Gerrare. 

The Red Reign. By Kellog Durland. The 

Century Co. 
Studies in Russia. By A. J. C. Hare. 
Russian Rambles. By Isabel F. Hapgood. 

SCOTLAND 

Romantic Edinburgh. By John Geddie. 

Scotland, Historic and Romantic. By Maria 
Horner Landsdale. 

Lands of Scott. By J. F. Hunnewell. 

In the Hebrides. By C. F. G. Cumming. 

Black's Scotland. 

A Land of Romance. By Jean Lang. Lon- 
don: I. C. & E. C. Jack. 

Over the Border. By Wm. Winter. Moffat 
Yard & Co. 

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 

The Cities of Spain. By Edward Hutton. 
The Macmillan Co. 

Spanish Highways and Byways. By Kath- 
arine Lee Bates. The Macmillan Co. 

Cathedrals of Spain. By John Allyne Gade. 
Houghton Mifflin Co. 

Castilian Days. By John Hay. Houghton 
Mifflin Co. 

Travels in Spain. By Philip Sanford Mor- 
den. Houghton Mifflin Co. 

Wanderings in Spain. By A. J. C. Hare. 



230 Planning a Trip Abroad 

A Corner of Spain. By Miriam Coles Har- 
ris. 

Through Portugal. By Martin Hume. 

Lisbon and Cintra. By Inchbold. 

The Cathedral Cities of Spain. By Collins. 

The Land of the Don. By Williams. 

Saunterings in Spain. By Seymour. 

Baedeker's Spain and Portugal. 

Home Life in Spain. By S. L. Bensusan. 
The Macmillan Co. 

Four Months Afoot in Spain. By Harry A. 
Franck. The Century Co. 

SWITZERLAND 

Switzerland. By Oscar L. Kuhns. T. Y. 
Crowell & Co. 

The Rise of the Swiss Republic. By W. D. 
McCracken. Henry Holt & Co. 

Swiss Life in Town and Country. By Al- 
fred Thomas Story. G. P. Putnam's 
Sons. 

Switzerland of the Swiss. By Frank Webb. 
Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

Romantic and Teutoniq Switzerland. By W. 
D. McCracken. 

Baedeker's Switzerland. 

TURKEY 

Turkey of the Ottomans. By Lucy M. Gar- 
nett. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 

Home Life in Turkey. By Lucy M. Gar- 
nett. The Macmillan Co. 

Turkish Life in Town and Country. By 
Lucy M. Garnett. Newnes: London. 

Behind Turkish Lattices. By Hester Don- 
aldson Jenkins. 



232 Planning a Trip Abroad 

values all down through Servia, Bulgaria, 
Montenegro and the remainder of the 
Balkan States. 

Gold coins are somewhat scarce in 
Italy, paper bank notes being used as 
substitutes. The same is true of Spain 
and Portugal. Outside of the country 
in which they are current these bank 
notes have a very uncertain value, if, in- 
deed, they may be exchanged at all. In 
Italy and Spain especially there is almost 
as much counterfeit in circulation as there 
is real money. It is well, therefore, to 
ascertain at the money changer's just 
what coins are good and what are spuri- 
ous. In Italy any silver coin bearing a 
date prior to 1863 is of no monetary 
value whatever. 

There is usually a money changer at 
every frontier station, and the traveler 
will find it to his advantage, after having 
attended to the customs examination of 
his baggage, to change some of his money 
of the country through which he has just 
passed into the coinage of the country 
he is about to enter — at all events, 
enough of it to defray incidental ex- 
penses until he can visit a bank and have 
the remainder changed at exact current 
rates. 

This is just one instance where the in- 
ternational travelers' checks stand one in 



Foreign Money 233 

good stead. By purchasing them the 
traveler will have interchangeable bank 
notes as good as gold and accepted in 
each country for the exact amount in the 
coinage of that country mentioned on the 
check, which is a very satisfactory rate of 
exchange. 



234 Planning a Trip Abroad 



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CUSTOMS ON RETURN 

IN brief, the customs regulations of the 
United States, as they stand at the 
present writing, with respect to returning 
European travelers and the baggage that 
accompanies them, allow each person to 
bring into the country free of duty not 
more than $100 worth of personal arti- 
cles purchased abroad, which, from their 
character, appear to have been necessary 
on the journey. Thus, a certain number 
of clothes, whether new or partially worn, 
but which must be made up ready to wear, 
will be passed by the inspectors; dresses 
in the piece, whether cut or not, will be 
charged for. Jewelry and toilet articles 
are considered as necessary to the com- 
fort and the good general appearance, 
perhaps, of the passenger. Fifty cigars 
or 300 cigarettes, if intended for the 
purchaser's individual use, may be in- 
cluded in the list and must be included 
in the $100 allowance. A person bring- 
ing in a number of articles of silver, for 
example, if the whole amount does not 
total even $50, will be charged duty. No 
longer may a person enter on his declara- 
238 



Customs on Return 239 

tion blank such an item as "presents — 
$20." "Presents" are not necessary to 
the personal comfort of the traveler, and 
duty will be imposed upon them. 

Some days before landing on American 
soil each passenger will be handed a blank 
form of United States customs declara- 
tion. Subjects of foreign countries re- 
ceive a special form which admits of no 
$100 allowance; and persons having been 
abroad for a continuous period of three 
years or more receive a special form 
which admits their bringing into the 
country household effects and personal 
belongings free of duty. On this blank 
form the passenger must fill in the spaces 
designated with his or her name, age, ad- 
dress in America, whether a born or 
naturalized American citizen, the date of 
sailing for Europe and steamer, how 
many pieces of baggage were taken over 
and how many the passenger is returning 
with. Below all this may be found a long 
blank space upon which to record in de- 
tail the purchases made while abroad, the 
value of each (and it is best to make 
computations in the American equiva- 
lents) and the total amount. 

It is wise to put down every item of 
any consequence and its actual foreign 
cost. At the end of the list the very in- 
significant articles as to price may be 



240 Planning a Trip Abroad 

summed up under such a notation as "In- 
cidentals — $7," or whatever the aggre- 
gate cost of these amounts to. 

After this declaration has been signed 
by the passenger, it should be delivered, 
either in person or through the room 
steward, to the purser of the ship. He 
will give in return a ticket which the 
passenger retains and upon the presenta- 
tion of which at the chief customs in- 
spector's window on the dock will entitle 
the passenger to have an inspector de- 
tailed to examine his baggage. 

All customs declarations, properly 
made out, must be in the hands of the 
purser before the ship reaches the quar- 
antine station at the entrance to New 
York harbor. At this point customs of- 
ficers will board the' ship, examine her 
"papers," and take over the customs 
declarations from the purser. They will 
be the first off the ship when she docks, 
and by the time you are ashore the chief 
inspector will have had your declaration 
in hand a half an hour. 

The ship's stewards will bring your 
stateroom baggage off the ship and place 
it upon the dock near the standard which 
bears in bold relief the initial of your last 
name. Baggage consigned to the hold of 
the ship will be slower in making its ap- 
pearance. (Second warning about bag- 



Customs on Return 241 

gage: whenever possible, travel with as 
few pieces as possible, and these of such 
size as may be easily put in the state- 
room.) 

After seeing that all baggage has been 
brought ashore and accumulated near the 
respective initial standard, but not until 
then, the time will be ripe to fall in line 
before the chief inspector's window. 
When your turn comes, which it certainly 
will in spite of delays, hand over your 
ticket and acknowledge your signature on 
your declaration. A waiting inspector 
will be detailed immediately to be led by 
you to your pile of luggage. If your 
declaration has footed up more than $100 
worth of purchases abroad do not be 
foolish enough to offer the inspector 
money, or even a cigar, as a play for 
leniency. It looks bad on the face of it, 
and besides is considered an act of brib- 
ery, punishable by fine and imprisonment. 

After the inspector has practically 
unpacked your grips and trunks and 
strewn the result over anything and 
everything that may happen to be within 
reach in search of the articles noted upon 
your declaration, each of which he must 
see and check off, it is too late then to 
figure on how you would arrange matters 
if you had your packing to do over on 
board the ship. To expedite the inspec- 



242 Planning a Trip Abroad 

tion of baggage and thus enable you to 
get off the dock before your last train 
leaves for home, not to mention being re- 
lieved of the necessity of having to re- 
pack entirely, it is a wise traveler who, 
when practicable, puts all his foreign 
purchases on top of his packing where 
they may be easily lifted and examined 
by the inspector without disturbing the 
shoes and so forth on the bottom. Assist 
the inspector in every way possible, and 
you will be treated in a courteous manner. 
I have had inspectors beg my pardon for 
it being their duty to see a certain article 
which was impossible to pack on the top 
of the trunk-tray, while my neighbor saw 
the most of his belongings turned upside 
down and scattered about simply because 
he resented the procedure. Of course 
there are inspectors and inspectors just 
as there are ship captains and ship cap- 
tains, but in a great measure it will de- 
pend upon the passenger himself as to 
the manner in which his baggage is 
examined. 

Dutiable articles will be laid aside by 
the inspector until he can call an ap- 
praiser to determine the duty to be paid 
upon each. This must be settled in cash 
at the collector's window before the arti- 
cles may be repacked. It is well to re- 
turn, therefore, with some money in the 



Customs on Return 243 

pocket. But baggage will be held on the 
pier for twenty-four hours to enable the 
passenger to procure sufficient cash for 
the payment of duties. 

As said before, $100 worth of articles 
purchased abroad, but necessary to the 
comfort of the passenger on the journey, 
will be admitted duty free. A suit of 
clothes valued at $20 will pass the in- 
spection ; a little silver sugar shaker 
worth $2 will not. 

Valuable articles of foreign make 
brought into this country, but upon 
which duty has once been paid, had bet- 
ter be registered in America before being 
taken abroad, so that there will be no 
dispute about their free entry when the 
owner returns from Europe. Owing to 
an international agreement, coats made 
of Alaskan seal purchased abroad cannot 
be brought into America under any cir- 
cumstances. Before taking a sealskin 
coat abroad it should be registered in 
America at the proposed port of reentry. 

The privilege to demand a re-appraise- 
ment is extended to any passenger dis- 
satisfied with the value placed upon 
dutiable articles by the appraiser, and the 
application for such should be made im- 
mediately to the deputy collector on the 
pier. If this procedure is not practi- 
cable, the articles may be left in the care 



244 Planning a Trip Abroad 

of the customs officials and application 
for re-appraisement made in writing to 
the collector at the Customs House 
within two days after the original exam- 
ination. 

Since the United States customs in- 
spector will be about the last exigency 
encountered by the European tourist, a 
reprint of the latest United States cus- 
toms regulations may be used appropri- 
ately to close this little volume dealing 
with the facts and fallacies of European 
travel. 

NOTICE TO PASSENGERS 

Paragraph 709, appearing in the free list 
of the present tariff act, governing passen- 
gers' baggage, reads as follows: 

709. "Wearing apparel, articles of per- 
sonal adornment, toilet articles, and similar 
personal effects of persons arriving in the 
United States; but this exemption shall only 
include such articles as actually accompany 
and are in the use of, and as are necessary 
and appropriate for the wear and use of such 
persons, for the immediate purposes of the 
journey and present comfort and conven- 
ience, and shall not be held to apply to mer- 
chandise or articles intended for other per- 
sons or for sale; provided, That in case of 
residents of the United States returning from 
abroad, all wearing apparel and other per- 
sonal effects taken by them out of the United; 
States to foreign countries shall be admitted 



Customs on Return 245 

free of duty, without regard to their value, 
upon their identity being established, under 
appropriate rules and regulations to be pre- 
scribed by the Secretary of the Treasury, 
but no more than one hundred dollars in value 
of articles purchased abroad by such resi- 
dents of the United States shall be admitted 
free of duty upon their return." 

residents of the united states 

Residents of the United States must 
declare all articles which have been ob- 
tained abroad by purchase or otherwise, 
whether used or unused, and whether on their 
persons, in their clothing, or in their baggage. 
The foreign value of each article, stated in 
United States money, must also be declared. 

Articles taken from the United States 
and remodeled, repaired, or improved 
abroad must be declared, and the cost of 
such remodeling, repairing, or improving 
must be separately stated: 

THE FOLLOWING ARTICLES ARE DUTIABLE I 

Household effects, including books, pic- 
tures, furniture, tableware, table linen, bed 
linen, and other similar articles, unless used 
abroad by the owner for a period of a year or 
more. 

Goods in the piece. 

Articles of any nature intended for sale, 
or for other persons. 

The following articles are free if un- 
der $100 in value and if necessary for com- 
fort and convenience for the purposes of the 



246 Planning a Trip Abroad 

journey, and not for sale nor for other per- 
sons: 

Clothing. 

Toilet articles, such as combs, brushes, 
soaps, cosmetics, shaving and manicure sets, 
etc. 

Personal adornments, jewelry, etc. 

Similar personal effects, which may include 
— Cameras, canes, fishing tackle, glasses 
(field, opera, marine), golf sticks, guns, 
musical instruments, parasols, photographs, 
smokers' articles, steamer rugs and shawls, 
toys, trunks, valises, etc. 

Clothing and other personal effects taken 
out of the United States by the passenger if 
not increased in value or improved in condi- 
tion while abroad. If increased in value or 
improved in condition, they are dutiable on 
the cost of the repairs. 

The above lists of articles which are duti- 
able and nondutiable are stated for the as- 
sistance of passengers and are not exhaustive. 
All articles are dutiable unless specifically 
exempted by law. 

Pack in one trunk, if practicable, all duti- 
able articles. 

Receipted bills for foreign purchases 
should be presented whenever possible. 

Use does not exempt from duty wearing 
apparel or other articles obtained abroad, 
but such articles will be appraised at their 
value in the condition as imported, due al- 
lowance being made for depreciation through 
wear and use. 



Customs on Return 247 

nonresidents of the united states 
Nonresidents of the United States are 

ENTITLED TO BRING IN FREE OF DUTY, with- 
out regard to the one-hundred-dollar exemp- 
tion, such articles as are in the nature of 
wearing apparel, articles of personal adorn- 
ment, toilet articles, and similar personal 
effects, necessary and appropriate for their 
wear and use for the purposes of the jour- 
ney and present comfort and convenience 
and which are not intended for other persons 
or for sale. 

Citizens of the United States, or per- 
sons who have at any time resided in this 
country, shall be deemed to be residents of 
the United States, unless they shall have 
abandoned their residence in this country 
and acquired an actual bona fide residence 
in a foreign country. 

Such citizens or former residents who 
desire the privileges granted by law to non- 
residents must show to the satisfaction of the 
collector's representative on the pier, sub- 
ject to the collector's approval, that they 
have given up their residence in the United 
States and that they have become bona fide 
residents of a foreign country. 

The residence of a wife follows that of the 
husband; and the residence of a minor child 
follows that of its parents. 

GOODS OTHER THAN PERSONAL EFFECTS 

Household effects of persons or families 
from foreign countries will be admitted free 
of duty only if actually used abroad by them 



248 Planning a Trip Abroad 

not less than one year, and if not intended 
for any other person, nor for sale. Such ef- 
fects should be declared whether the passen- 
ger be a resident or a nonresident of the 
United States. 

Articles intended for use in business, 
or for other persons, theatrical apparel, 
properties, and sceneries, must be declared 
by passengers, whether residents or nonresi- 
dents. 

cigars and cigarettes 
All cigars and cigarettes must be declared. 
Each passenger over eighteen years of age 
may bring in free of duty 50 cigars or 300 
cigarettes if for the bona fide use of such 
passenger. Such cigars and cigarettes will 
be in addition to the articles included within 
the $100 exemption. 

BAGGAGE DECLARATIONS 

The law provides that every person en- 
tering the United States shall make a decla- 
ration and entry of his or her personal bag- 
gage. The law further requires that the 
values of articles shall be determined by cus- 
toms officers, irrespective of the statements 
of passengers relative thereto. 

It will thus be seen that there is no dis- 
courtesy in the requirement that both a 
declaration and an independent appraisal 
shall be made. Taken together, these re- 
quirements place the passenger in the same 
position as any other importer of merchan- 
dise. 

Passengers should observe that on the 



Customs on Return 249 

sheet given them there are two forms of 
declarations ; the one printed in black is for 
residents of the United States; the one in 
red, for nonresidents. 

The exact number of pieces of baggage, 
including all trunks, valises, boxes, packages, 
and hand bags of any description accom- 
panying the passenger, must be stated in the 
declaration. 

The senior member of a family, present 
as a passenger, may make declaration for 
the entire family. 

Ladies traveling alone should state that 
fact in their declaration in order that an ex- 
peditious examination of their baggage may 
be made. 

When the declaration is prepared and 
signed, the coupon at the bottom of the form 
must be detached and retained by the pas- 
senger, and the form given to the officer of 
the ship designated to receive the same. A 
declaration spoiled in its preparation must 
not be destroyed, but turned over to the pur- 
ser, who will furnish a new blank to the 
passenger. 

After all the baggage and effects of 
the passenger have been landed upon the 
pier, the coupon which has been retained by 
the passenger must be presented at the in- 
spector's desk, whereupon an inspector will 
be detailed to examine the baggage. Pas- 
sengers must acknowledge in person, on the 
pier, their signature to their declarations. 

Examination of any baggage may be 
postponed if the passenger requests the of- 



250 Planning a Trip Abroad 

ficer taking his declaration to have it sent 
to the appraiser's store. 

Passengers must not deduct the $100 
exemption in making out their declarations. 
Such deductions will be made by customs of- 
ficers on the pier. 

contested valuation 
Passengers dissatisfied with values 
placed upon dutiable articles by the customs 
officers on the pier may demand a reexam- 
ination, but application therefor should be 
immediately made to the officers there in 
charge. If for any reason this course is im- 
practicable, the packages containing the arti- 
cles should be left in customs custody and 
application for reappraisement made to the 
collector of customs, in writing, within ten 
days after the original appraisement. No 
request for reappraisement can be enter- 
tained after the articles have been removed 
from customs custody. 

miscellaneous provisions 
Currency (or certified checks after 
June 1, 1911) only can be accepted in pay- 
ment of duties, but, upon request, baggage 
will be retained on the piers for twenty-four 
hours to enable the owner to secure currency 
or certified checks. 

The offering of gratuities or bribes to 
customs officers is a violation of law. Cus- 
toms officers who accept gratuities or bribes 
will be dismissed from the service, and all 
parties concerned will be liable to criminal 
prosecution. 



Customs on Return 251 

Discourtesy or incivility on the part of 
customs officers should be reported to the col- 
lector at the customhouse, to the deputy 
collector or the deputy surveyor at the pier, 
or to the Secretary of the Treasury. 

BAGGAGE FOR TRANSPORTATION IN BOND 

Baggage intended for delivery at ports 
in the United States other than the port of 
arrival, or in transit through the United 
States to a foreign country, may be for- 
warded thereto without the assessment of 
duty at the port of arrival, by the various 
railroads and express companies, whose rep- 
resentatives will be found on the pier. 

Passengers desiring to have their baggage 
forwarded in bond should indicate such in- 
tention and state the value thereof in their 
declaration before any examination of the 
baggage has been made. 

sealskin garments 
An act of Congress of 1897, as amended 
in 1910, expressly forbids the importation 
into the United States of garments made in 
whole or in part of the skins of seals taken 
in the waters of the Pacific ocean; and un- 
less the owner is able to establish by com- 
petent evidence and to the satisfaction of 
the collector that the garments are not pro- 
hibited, they can not be admitted. 

penalty for not declaring articles 
obtained abroad 

Under Sections 2802 and 3082 of the 
Revised Statutes of the United States, 



252 Planning a Trip Abroad 

ARTICLES OBTAINED ABROAD AND NOT DE- 
CLARED ARE SUBJECT TO SEIZURE, AND THE 
PASSENGER IS LIABLE TO CRIMINAL PROSECU- 
TION. 

James F. Curtis, 
Assistant Secretary. 
Treasury Department, 
Office of the Secretary, 
Washington, March 11/., 1911. 




LET US HELP YOU 



PLAN A TRIP ABROAD 

No matter where you want to go our tourist depart- 
ment will tell you how to get there at the least ex- 
pense and trouble. 

NORTH GERMAN LLOYD 

Tuesday and Thursday sailings on the most superb 
steamships to 

LONDON 



Saturday 
sailings to 



PARIS BREMEN 

The Mediterranean 

Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa and Naples. 
Three fascinating Cruises to the Palm-Treed 

West Indies 

Thurs.. Jan. 16, 1913 Thurs.. Feb. 20, 1913 

Thurs..Mar. 27. 1913 

Inaugurating the unparalleled North German Lloyd 
Service to the Coral Lands of the American Riviera. 
By the Superb Transatlantic Liner GROSSER 
KURFURST. 13.243 Tons. 



OELRICHS & CO. 

General Agents 




5 BROADWAY 

New York 



All Around 
the World 

you will find people ready 
to cash our 

Travelers' Checks 

Failure to make satisfactory 
arrangements for their 
funds has embarrassed many 
travelers. 

Provided with our checks 
such experiences are 
avoided. 

K. N. & K. Checks are safe, 
convenient and economical 

If you contemplate a trip to 
any part of the world, send 
for our booklet "Funds for 
Travelers. " It contains 
information that is both 
interesting and valuable. 

KNAUTH, NAGHOD 
& KUHNE, Bankers 

Leipzig 15 William St. 

Germany New York 



Put these books in your 
bag before you start 

Andorra, The Hidden Republic. By Lewis 
Gaston Leary. The first book in English 
on the smallest republic in the world. 
Illustrated. $1. 50 net, postage 12c. 

Windmills and Wooden Shoes. By Blair 
Jaekel, F. R. G. S. Holland— graphically 
depicted by a world traveler. Illustrated. 
$1.10 net, postage 10c. 

A Shopping Guide to Paris and London. 
By Frances B. S. Waxman. How and 
where to shop in Europe's shopping centers. 
Illustrated. 75c. net, postage 8c. 

Through Our Unknown Southwest. By 
Agnes C. Laut. The wonders of ancient 
civilizations and of present races. Illus- 
trated. $2.00 net, postage 20c. 

The Real Palestine of Today. By Lewis 
Gaston Leary. * 'An unf orgetable picture 
of the little land that yet looms so large in 
the history and heart of mankind.* * — Chi- 
cago Record-Herald. Illustrated. $1.00 
net, postage 10c. 

— Not to forget some good fiction 

The Lovers of Sanna. By Mary Stewart 
Cutting, author of Little Stories of Married 
Life, The Wayfarers, etc. Illustrated. $1.00 
net, postage 8c. 

The Second Deluge. By Garrett P. Serviss, 
author of Astronomy with the Naked Eye, 
etc. Illustrated. $1.35 net, postage lie. 

Traumerei. By Leona Dalrymple. A real 
"find" in a clean, sweet novel of modern 
life. Illustrated. $1.35 net, postage 14c. 

Order from Your Bookseller Send for Catalogue 

McBride, Nast & Co., Publishers 

Union Square New York City 



C5TABU5HE0 IBIS 




C^OTHI^ 



BROADWAY COR.TWENTY-SEC0ND ST. 

NEW YORK. 




FOR FOREIGN OR 
HOME TRAVEL 

on Motor, Boat or 
Rail. Ulsters, 
Steamer Rugs, 
Trunks, Bags, Trav- 
eling Kits. 
Elaborate or simple. 

AT THE CITIES 

^C^^**'^ OR WATERING 
PLACES. Dress, 
Semi Dress and Negligee Garments ready 
for immediate delivery. 
Hats, Shoes and Haberdashery. 

FOR TRAVEL AND PLAY OUT OF 
DOORS. Norfolks and Knickerbockers, 
Riding Coats and Breeches in all materials 
from silk to Shetland Homespuns. Mack- 
intoshes for motor or saddle work. 
Golf, Polo and Fishing Gear. 



Send for Illustrated Catalogue 



EUROPEAN train-men are 
especially hard on luggage 

Eternal slam-banging is the lot of 
luggage that makes a 'round-the- 
world trip. 

It' s just that strain that Likly trunks 
are built to stand. 

Every Likly trunk has a foundation 
box of bass-wood — the lightest, 
sturdiest wood known for trunk- 
making. Corner caps, slat protectors 
and hinges are of special Likly 
design. Each contribute to the 
exceptional durability of the trunk. 

And when you look inside it's the 
good old story of * a place for 
everything, and everything in its 
place." 

LIKLY 
LUGGAGE 

Steamer Trunks Gladstones 

(plain or wardrobe) Suit Cases 

Wardrobe Trunks Oxford Bags 

Dress Trunks Kit Bags 

—Luggage of all kinds 
for all purposes 

Write us for a catalogue and the name of 
the Likly dealer in your town. 

Henry Likly & Co., Rochester, N.Y. 

NEW YORK SALESROOM, 38 EAST 21st STREET 



JUL 9 1912 



